voyles

OK guys,
We all know how rust takes off once it starts.
I got 2 lower rusty doors,one lower drivers side fenders, light surface rust along bottom, and in the corner of the bed post hole things.

My plan,
I am going to sandblast the lower doors and some of the other stuff that is bad. I will use a sander to get the majority of the lower paint flaking on the bottom of the truck. I got a LMC lower drivers side fender replacement to cut and weld in spot of the rusty hole I have now.

My questions,
1. Will sandblasting get the rust off on the door bottoms? I know there is a
lip there and do i have to open it up? I got one quart of RUSTBULLET for
the doors. Should i open the lip,paint the rustbullet, and fold lip back and
get some type of seam sealer between? Or will the rustbullet work without
opening up the seam?
2.I assume i can cut the old fender out and spot weld the new piece in? How
can i go about this? I want to also cut the replacement fender piece so
that i am only replacing below the lower of the two hump things. Read
below for reasoning. don't want to do any paint matching big$$$
3. I want to sandblast and sand to take off all the flaking paint/lite surface
rust on the bottom of the whole truck and prime it. Color doesn't matter.
The reason i am doing that is because it cost too much to paint match all
the paint and it is cheaper to Line-X the lower part of the truck starting at
the lower of the crease thing below the 2500 emblem. It's only gona cost
me 300 total or 150 a side to get that done. I think black will work out
best with a silver truck.

this is on a college student budget and need advice. exp. the door rust.

please pass tips. like, I think I will take off the drivers door and just leave the fender on when I weld it on.Do I have to paint the fender inside if it has that black paint stuff on it? I have a mig welder here.

b4wheeler

There are some nice take off parts available here in Baltimore on craigslist, if you would rather spend a few dollars and same some time.....
These are not mine, just passing along a little helpful info.

http://baltimore.craigslist.org/pts/456802833.html (Door)

http://images.craigslist.org/0101010...af98000857.jpg

pete97

That quad cab door will not fit the club cab or the standard cab trucks. The doors for the 94-97's are different than the 98+ quad cabs.

voyles

thanks for that information!

kawi600

sandblasting is ok for light rust but if its deep youll just wind up showing holes. If its deep you can slice out bad spots and weld in new sheet metal.
Id use a good weld through zinc undercoating on the back side of any repairs.
Phosphoric acid / zinc and tannic acid products are all good at reaching rust inside seams.

Busboy

"Rock guard" hides a lot of imperfections and can be painted over. Also "acrylic enamel" paint is cheaper than using a base and clear coat like the factory does. I much prefer using acrylic enamel and you could probably paint the whole truck for the cost of using the other paint.

Deezel Nate

Ouch a 99 that is rusted that bad!

voyles

It's not rusted real bad.

Just the main part is a 2 inch rust hole in the lower fender. The doors are rusting along the seam and the majority of the other stuff is flaky paint stuff like that.

voyles

weld through zinc? should I primer the fender piece before I put it on and then take the fender off and paint the weled area?

kawi600

they claim its good for the back sides of body panels prior to welding.. should be ok.as for the front side, do whatever you normally would since its out in the open.

voyles

AHH, I see now I think. LMC told me it was coated with that paint. I should buy a can and spary more on the back before i weld it.

I don't think it will blow holes through it, it is surface only. I was just worried about the seams cause they have rust in them and didn't know if the rustbullet will help stop that.

voyles

can I place the new replaccement part right up beside the old fender and butt weld it together. I also see people doing with and they do little spot welds? Is that so the fender does not worp? I assume that will hold after i do a few of them? I will then grind them back down and play a primer coat on it i guess. While i am at the painting game, I am going to drill part of the cab cornder and spray lots of oil in the hole to stop it from starting.


Any one ever use por15 on the frame with out putting that chassie black coating on it? I want my frame to look good.