My hard brake line blew, its blew right on the frame rail and next to the fuel tank. What are my options, does someone make a replacement, or do i have to buy a double flaring tool and some brakeline? Any ideas what this would cost to have a shop replace the line to the rear brakes.

Thanks,
Dave

 

From your post , it sound like you may have not done a lot of wrenching , being that this is your breaks , I would suggest have a shop do it , best if they will let you watch , to learn .
I've had the sign in my shop that said , $75 hr shop rate , $100 if you watch , $125 if you help & $175 if you worked on it before .
Just saying that because many shops , for many good reasons do not want you to do any of the above , but some might let your watch .
Point being that the most important part of your truck is stopping , so until your get some wrenching expeirence , leave the brakes to the shop .
I've done a few of these , 1st your need to remove the fuel tank , empty is easier .
Then putting in new line in a good tied down [ as to not rub against anything ] .

 

If its just a small hole you might be able to have it brazed for very cheap, I've done that to an old farmtruck a few years ago and it still works

 

I have no doubts i could get it done, im pretty good at wrenching on my stuff, Never had to deal with the hard lines before, and being it is cold as heck outside, I just figure i might let someone else deal with it. Is it common for these hard lines to rot??

Thanks,

Dave

 

I had that portion of the line on my '94 rust out, here's what I did:

Bought a long-enough length of brake line w/fittings from NAPA, along with a coupling, inverse flare nut, and an OTC double-flaring tool.

Cut the original line ahead of the fuel tank, installed the nut, and flared it. There was plenty of tubing for me to make 2 or 3 more attempts if I didn't get it right the first time.

Wrapped the end of the new line with tape so as to prevent crap getting in there and pushed it through from front-to-rear between the fuel tank and the frame. Took a bit of finagling, but it finally went. Connected both ends. The front was way longer than necessary, on purpose; I curled it into a circle, then connected it to the coupling. This was the best way, IMO, to make the connection, as it'd be difficult to get the length "just right". Made sure that nothing was rubbing on anything it shouldn't, probably used a TyRap or 2. (don't remember for sure, it's been 2 or 3 years ago now)

Bled the rear brakes, RH side first. Hooked up the trailer and left on our trip. We were very lucky that this failure occurred in our driveway, as there was little warning.

 

I just finished replacing the same line today, shop wanted about $800 to bend and install a new line.. You need to drop the tank and cut the old line in 2 parts to get it out, I cut mine in front of the fuel tank next to the transfer case and put a union there to connect the 2 new lines.
Not to bad of a job, just need to watch that you don't kink the line when making the tight bends needed at the front.

 

All depends on how you want it to look! I have left the old line there ,( like said above ) got some line with the ends already on it at the local NAPA and a connector. Replaced the line from the front connection to the rear block, and then bleed. Zip tied the new line to the old one, and let it go. Make some funky bends to take up any excess line! That was a LOOOONNGGG time ago, on a Jeep I justed drove through the fields. Anything I have on the road, I take more time to make it look like it was factory. All depends on what you want it to look like, but in the end, whatever it looks like, you can have brakes!

 

There is a block fitting on the frame drivers side strait under fuel filter area.

There is another block fitting over the rear differential.

To do it right, you should replace the whole segment of line from block to block.

It's probably $20 worth of line that you can bend yourself if you take your time.

I would not recommend flaring an old brake line, just run a new one and use the old line to secure the new line to.

The biggest problem usually is opening the bleeders in the wheel cylinders to bleed the air.

 

Had my brake line let go in the exact same place - I think it's common. Bought new brake line & fittings at Autozone (any parts place will have them) for less than $20, just make sure to get the flare fittings and not the compression fittings. Any Autozone will loan you the flaring tool free with a deposit. I recall it taking about 2 hours to do.

 

Brakes are very important to operation of vehicle. Seems you would not asked question if you felt qualified. Let someone familiar with fittings and lines do job. Friend in Detroit got job done for 125 dollars.
Just check and make sure is relaible, reasonable shop.