I need to replace my return fuel line on my '96 3500 because of the "it's getting hard to start" problem and I need to replace the float for the fuel gauge as well. I really don't want to drop the tank 'cause I don't have a nice flat hard surface to work from; just the front yard. I have read all I can about the bed tilt method(I hear ya infidel) but there seem to be 2 methods. One is the "dump truck" style and the other is the sideways method. So some questions. Which way is better for the 3500? Have to replace the float so the more room to work, the better.
The fuel filler hoses are hidden pretty good, behind a flap... would it be better to try to remove them from the fuel tank or take the flap off?

I'm going to replace the return hose from the pipe at the filter all the way to the tank. Do I have to remove the fuel filter to get to that end and will I have any problems connecting the hose to the fuel tank? I've read there are some quick connect thingys at the tank.

I got some 5/16" hose, some worm clamps, a float assembly(just the $40+ float, not the whole thing), couple 2x4s and some tools. Do I need like a new fuel filter or gasgets or special tools or??? to do these 2 jobs.

I would appreciate any help or advice.
TIA, Wayne

 

If you can get the truck on the street for an hour or two, a couple motorcycle jacks will do the job safely. Use them to lower the tank enough to disconnect the flex lines and you can slide it out from under the truck with that side lifted a little.
Ive been up in there a few times now due to fuel and brake lines. Its not bad with those jacks.

 

Thanks kawi600...
Live in the country... no streets to get onto. Just dirt roads out here. I don't have a garage or even any asphalt/concrete poured. Lots of sand tho..LOL.
Aside from that, I hate to take the tank out. Had one of the straps break when I first got the truck and put it back together pretty permanent. Don't really want to mess with it(the tank) unless I really, really have to.
Wayne

 

I tilted mine left to right a while back.

If you have the access to a forklift or a tractor with a loader, you just run a chain across the middle pockets and pluck the whole business right off in 2 seconds.

I did mine on sunday.

http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/b...10/nov9007.jpg

http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/b...10/nov9006.jpg

 

Thanks timmy22...
Pic worth thousand words...smile. Anyway, had not thought of taking the whole thing off. How much trouble is the wiring in the back? I see a couple ground straps also. Do you have to take the rear bumper off? I see yours is off.
P.S. I do have a backhoe so the loader bucket is doable...hummmmm

 

Did mine with the sideways tilt method. Didn't have to disconnect the the filler neck, but if you go too high, you'll start pulling in the fender flare. Just block up the box good when you're underneath, don't want that falling on you.

 

Do you have a 5ver hitch if you do it might be easier to drop the tank.

 

I always tilt left to right, less bolts to remove.
Even though I have a couple of loaders and a forklift wouldn't consider using them in case something binds. Two people or a come-a-long works for me.
Just disconnect the fill or vent hose from either end, remove the screws under the fuel lid that hold it to the bed and pull it out.

 

There are a couple of plugs, a ground strap and the fuel filler.

I have mine off because I am installing a flatbed.

http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/b...ovember008.jpg

I used the forks on my tractor. I ran a chain across the second from the back pockets on the top of the bed rail. I then slid a 2x6 across the top all the way at the back. Then you get the tips of your forks under the chain while the "heel" of your forks are on top of the 2x6. Gently roll your forks back a little. Now you just lift strait up.

If all your doing is changing the module and lines, just tilt it left to right. leave all the passenger side bolts in just a few turns so it can't slide over.
After you get the height you need, cut a 2x4 or two to hold the bed where you want it.

 

A BIG thanks to y'all...

Going to go with the left to right method. Just loosen the other bolts. Probably have to unplug the tail light wiring and see if there are any ground straps on the side that goes up. Wasn't sure what would happen if I took those screws out of the back of the filler backing plate... Thanks Bill!
Had a 5th hitch in the bed but took it out already.

BTW, I realize I have to lay across the engine to get to the return hose(per Bill's picture) but do I have to remove the fuel filter to get to that connection, 'cause that means I'll have to take the brake fluid stuff lose first? I'm trying to have some methodology to all this so I don't have to make a career out of it or more likely, screw something up.
Again, thanks... I'm not the best mechanic in the world so all these "how to's" are invaluable.

 

Ok, Id LOVE to be able to get the bed off the truck for some rustproofing and repairs, but how do you get that big heavy thing off without ruining the sheetmetal or paint? An engine lift isnt long enough to get into the center of the bed and thats all I really have access to =(
You guys have any other tips for full removal?

 

4 strong men!

The biggest issue is the height required to clear the tires or frame unless you remove the mud flaps.

 

You have to remove the fuel filter to get to the front of the return hose easily.
Filter only, not the housing. Moving the master cylinder out of the way only involves removing two nuts, nothing else needs to be disconnected to make lots of room to work.

When I've removed beds I just used four nylon tie down straps, one to each bed hook. I used my forklift with 8' forks but a come-along on a beam or tree branch would work also.

 

Thanks Bill... I may pm you if I hit a snag, hope you don't mind.

 

Well, for those that were wondering(maybe), got the job done. Fuel float is in and I can see how much fuel I have for the first time in about 2 years...LOL. Got the return hose from the engine to the fuel tank. Didn't take me as much to start it as I thought it would. Still starting hard but there is still probably some air in the system. Still have to tighten down the bed, put the bumper on and connect some wires but the darn thing is done. Want to thank all you guys for the help, 'specially infidel... sure wouldn't want to do this everyday.
Wayne