Ball Joints and Wheel Hub Bearing Done!
05-22-2009, 09:02 AM
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Ball Joints and Wheel Hub Bearing Done!
Well, I finally took the plunge and tore apart my front end yesterday. I planned on replacing both ball joints, wheel hub, and U-joint. The U-joint I got from RockAuto was totally too small so I'll get that next time. As for the rest of it:
I used a liberal dose of PB Blaster the day before for the spindle nut. Broke free fairly easily (only half a million foot pounds of torque). A 3/4" inch breaker bar and socket was used.
I used the power steering trick and was skeptical at first. Patiently moving the socket/extensions around and putting pressure on the hub broke it free after about 7-10 cycles. Now I'm a believer! Note to self: buy some crappy sockets and extensions next time because they will probably be fused together when all is said and done.... I put one socket/extension on each side kitty corner and bungeed around the whole axle area to keep them pushed towards the center. After a left and right turn I moved them to the other bolts.
The wheel bearing was, indeed, on its last leg. Spinning it after I removed it I could hear that it was about to fail. I'm just glad it lasted over 200,000 miles. I jacked up the whole front end to get the hub bearing out and then, once removed, lowered the opposite wheel to the ground so I wouldn't lose too much diff fluid.
The U-joint seemed to be in good shape with no strange noises or binding and I'll get it when I can find the RIGHT part number....
The knuckle came off fairly easily with repeated strikes of a SFH. It and the other steel/rust was painted with rust converter (Kleen Strip Rust Inhibitor - Good Stuff!!!).
I used a ball joint kit from AutoZone and it was a piece of junk. The C-Clamp wasn't long enough to fit the adapters on and push out the ball joints. I would HIGHLY RECOMMEND 2" black iron pipe cut into 1/2", 2" and 3" lengths as the adapters were worthless. A 1/4" thick 3x3 plate would have been very helpful since the adapter ends were so thick they couldn't be used well. Also, I used a 1/2" drive socket and would definitely get a 3/4" one next time. With the pressures you put on that clamp 1/2" drive is child's play.
Buy your ball joints, then take them to HD to get the pipe sizes you need. 2" definitely and smaller for the upper ball joint removal. I sprayed the joints with PB Blaster, let them soak, heated the joint, etc. What worked was putting the joint under load and smacking the knuckle end with a BFH. Move the press around making sure you are putting even pressure straight down. It took me about 1 hour for the top removal and 3 hours for the bottom (cussing included free of charge). Once it breaks or pops the first time the rest is fairly easy.
The top joint went in pretty easy and the bottom was much harder. Once square pressure is applied it goes in pretty fast, though. I did find out that the little aluminum zerk fitting only needs about 2 ft lbs. of torque or it will shear right off. Nice time to learn about zerk fitting torque specs.... I tried drilling out the hole with the intention of rethreadling the piece for the zerk from the other ball joint I had for the other side of the truck. After about an hour of swearing and useless drilling I admitted defeat and pushed the lower ball joint out. I used the spare and it went in fairly easily. I also only used 1.9 ft lbs. of torque on that zerk fitting this time. Put the boot on and put the knuckle back on. Tightened the nuts, put the cotter keys in, and lubed them up.
Axle shaft back in and the wheel bearing went on pretty easily (with a lot of anti-seize). What's that laying on the floor? Hub back off, brake shield on this time, and hub back on. Route the ABS line up and connect, attach the tie rod end, big spindle nut back on, tire on, and back it out of the garage. All told, the job was about 12 hours with a 2 hour break for liquor in the middle.
Lessons Learned (stuff to have on hand before you start):
MOOG 7394 and 7397 Ball Joints
Timken 590203 Wheel Bearing
Proper U-Joints (Stock numbers anyone?)
3/4" breaker bar and socket for the spindle nut (1 11/16") and bearing press (7/8"). Northern Tool has them reasonably priced.
3 foot plus cheater bar for the breaker bar.
2 each 9/16" cheap sockets and extensions or other sockets (total distance is about 4-5").
Various sizes and lengths of black iron pipe (2" pipe and 1/2", 1", 2", 3" lengths, 1 1/2" pipe and the same lengths).
1/4" thick steel plate 3x3".
Anti-seize and thread locker.
Cotter key for the big spindle nut.
3lb. drilling hammer.
Bearing press (free from AutoZone: deposit required). (Harbor Freight has them for $39.99 that are the same).
A can or two of PB Blaster.
Rust converter if you want to paint the rust.
That's about it. Definitely schedule a whole day and possibly two and you should be okay. One side of the truck (2 ball joints, 1 wheel bearing, u-joint) costs around $400 plus shipping from RockAuto. Beats handing a garage untold hundreds of dollars. Plus you get to drink beer while you cuss. Or vice versa....
I used a liberal dose of PB Blaster the day before for the spindle nut. Broke free fairly easily (only half a million foot pounds of torque). A 3/4" inch breaker bar and socket was used.
I used the power steering trick and was skeptical at first. Patiently moving the socket/extensions around and putting pressure on the hub broke it free after about 7-10 cycles. Now I'm a believer! Note to self: buy some crappy sockets and extensions next time because they will probably be fused together when all is said and done.... I put one socket/extension on each side kitty corner and bungeed around the whole axle area to keep them pushed towards the center. After a left and right turn I moved them to the other bolts.
The wheel bearing was, indeed, on its last leg. Spinning it after I removed it I could hear that it was about to fail. I'm just glad it lasted over 200,000 miles. I jacked up the whole front end to get the hub bearing out and then, once removed, lowered the opposite wheel to the ground so I wouldn't lose too much diff fluid.
The U-joint seemed to be in good shape with no strange noises or binding and I'll get it when I can find the RIGHT part number....
The knuckle came off fairly easily with repeated strikes of a SFH. It and the other steel/rust was painted with rust converter (Kleen Strip Rust Inhibitor - Good Stuff!!!).
I used a ball joint kit from AutoZone and it was a piece of junk. The C-Clamp wasn't long enough to fit the adapters on and push out the ball joints. I would HIGHLY RECOMMEND 2" black iron pipe cut into 1/2", 2" and 3" lengths as the adapters were worthless. A 1/4" thick 3x3 plate would have been very helpful since the adapter ends were so thick they couldn't be used well. Also, I used a 1/2" drive socket and would definitely get a 3/4" one next time. With the pressures you put on that clamp 1/2" drive is child's play.
Buy your ball joints, then take them to HD to get the pipe sizes you need. 2" definitely and smaller for the upper ball joint removal. I sprayed the joints with PB Blaster, let them soak, heated the joint, etc. What worked was putting the joint under load and smacking the knuckle end with a BFH. Move the press around making sure you are putting even pressure straight down. It took me about 1 hour for the top removal and 3 hours for the bottom (cussing included free of charge). Once it breaks or pops the first time the rest is fairly easy.
The top joint went in pretty easy and the bottom was much harder. Once square pressure is applied it goes in pretty fast, though. I did find out that the little aluminum zerk fitting only needs about 2 ft lbs. of torque or it will shear right off. Nice time to learn about zerk fitting torque specs.... I tried drilling out the hole with the intention of rethreadling the piece for the zerk from the other ball joint I had for the other side of the truck. After about an hour of swearing and useless drilling I admitted defeat and pushed the lower ball joint out. I used the spare and it went in fairly easily. I also only used 1.9 ft lbs. of torque on that zerk fitting this time. Put the boot on and put the knuckle back on. Tightened the nuts, put the cotter keys in, and lubed them up.
Axle shaft back in and the wheel bearing went on pretty easily (with a lot of anti-seize). What's that laying on the floor? Hub back off, brake shield on this time, and hub back on. Route the ABS line up and connect, attach the tie rod end, big spindle nut back on, tire on, and back it out of the garage. All told, the job was about 12 hours with a 2 hour break for liquor in the middle.
Lessons Learned (stuff to have on hand before you start):
MOOG 7394 and 7397 Ball Joints
Timken 590203 Wheel Bearing
Proper U-Joints (Stock numbers anyone?)
3/4" breaker bar and socket for the spindle nut (1 11/16") and bearing press (7/8"). Northern Tool has them reasonably priced.
3 foot plus cheater bar for the breaker bar.
2 each 9/16" cheap sockets and extensions or other sockets (total distance is about 4-5").
Various sizes and lengths of black iron pipe (2" pipe and 1/2", 1", 2", 3" lengths, 1 1/2" pipe and the same lengths).
1/4" thick steel plate 3x3".
Anti-seize and thread locker.
Cotter key for the big spindle nut.
3lb. drilling hammer.
Bearing press (free from AutoZone: deposit required). (Harbor Freight has them for $39.99 that are the same).
A can or two of PB Blaster.
Rust converter if you want to paint the rust.
That's about it. Definitely schedule a whole day and possibly two and you should be okay. One side of the truck (2 ball joints, 1 wheel bearing, u-joint) costs around $400 plus shipping from RockAuto. Beats handing a garage untold hundreds of dollars. Plus you get to drink beer while you cuss. Or vice versa....
05-22-2009, 02:13 PM
#2
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Cedar Park, TX
Posts: 336
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I also just did my ball joints this weekend and experienced some of the same stuff as you. Here's my comments to your comments
I started using PB blaster Thursday night applied to every area I thought would need it (hub nut, ball joints, hub-bearing area). I PB'd it again on Friday night and then before starting to work on it on Saturday.
My passenger side had been apart previously. The hub bearing came out easily by tapping on the backed off bolts. The drivers side had never been apart, but it was a simple task using the power steering trick. I had a helper turn the wheen while I moved the socket around. I used a deep socket and 3" wobble extenstion. And, yes, the socket is hosed.
I'll never attempt this job again without the proper press. I rented the press from O'Reillys (same press you get from AutoZone). With some homemade cups, you can get the top joint out/in fairly easy, but the bottom is a different story. It took me 5 hours to get each bottom joint in/out. The problem is that you can't get a square angle on the joint. I found that if you put pressure on the bottom joint, and then take an extension and whack the top of the joint with a BFH, it would start to give. Move the press to get a different angle, whack the joint with the extension. Keep repeating this until it comes out.
I also replaced all 4 tie rod ends, track bar, steering dampner, and installed a DSS. It definately takes a full weekend to do this job. I had a rain delay on Saturday and wasn't able to start until 4p. I worked on it up to 9p. Got a early start on Sunday (7a) and walked in the house Sunday night at 11:53p and still had to replace the track bar. Finally finished up Monday night after work.
I used a liberal dose of PB Blaster the day before for the spindle nut. Broke free fairly easily (only half a million foot pounds of torque). A 3/4" inch breaker bar and socket was used.
I used the power steering trick and was skeptical at first. Patiently moving the socket/extensions around and putting pressure on the hub broke it free after about 7-10 cycles. Now I'm a believer! Note to self: buy some crappy sockets and extensions next time because they will probably be fused together when all is said and done.... I put one socket/extension on each side kitty corner and bungeed around the whole axle area to keep them pushed towards the center. After a left and right turn I moved them to the other bolts.
I used a ball joint kit from AutoZone and it was a piece of junk. The C-Clamp wasn't long enough to fit the adapters on and push out the ball joints. I would HIGHLY RECOMMEND 2" black iron pipe cut into 1/2", 2" and 3" lengths as the adapters were worthless. A 1/4" thick 3x3 plate would have been very helpful since the adapter ends were so thick they couldn't be used well. Also, I used a 1/2" drive socket and would definitely get a 3/4" one next time. With the pressures you put on that clamp 1/2" drive is child's play.
Buy your ball joints, then take them to HD to get the pipe sizes you need. 2" definitely and smaller for the upper ball joint removal. I sprayed the joints with PB Blaster, let them soak, heated the joint, etc. What worked was putting the joint under load and smacking the knuckle end with a BFH. Move the press around making sure you are putting even pressure straight down. It took me about 1 hour for the top removal and 3 hours for the bottom (cussing included free of charge). Once it breaks or pops the first time the rest is fairly easy.
Buy your ball joints, then take them to HD to get the pipe sizes you need. 2" definitely and smaller for the upper ball joint removal. I sprayed the joints with PB Blaster, let them soak, heated the joint, etc. What worked was putting the joint under load and smacking the knuckle end with a BFH. Move the press around making sure you are putting even pressure straight down. It took me about 1 hour for the top removal and 3 hours for the bottom (cussing included free of charge). Once it breaks or pops the first time the rest is fairly easy.
I also replaced all 4 tie rod ends, track bar, steering dampner, and installed a DSS. It definately takes a full weekend to do this job. I had a rain delay on Saturday and wasn't able to start until 4p. I worked on it up to 9p. Got a early start on Sunday (7a) and walked in the house Sunday night at 11:53p and still had to replace the track bar. Finally finished up Monday night after work.
05-22-2009, 04:25 PM
#3
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Montana
Posts: 191
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Good write up, I had similar a experience. I replaced the u-joints in the front axle shafts while I was at it, I ended up have a machine shop press them in. There is no way my OTC balljoint press would move the stock u-joints 
.
A 3/4 breaker bar and a 3' cheater is a must for the balljoint press, I broke a good 1/2".
It took me twice to get my track bar tight, it had such a load with the new one I had to move the front end around so it would center and torque it a second time.
I noticed the Moog balljoints were tight at first, a few hundred miles on rough road and some grease cured that
. A 3/4 breaker bar and a 3' cheater is a must for the balljoint press, I broke a good 1/2".
It took me twice to get my track bar tight, it had such a load with the new one I had to move the front end around so it would center and torque it a second time.
I noticed the Moog balljoints were tight at first, a few hundred miles on rough road and some grease cured that
05-22-2009, 07:07 PM
#4
Registered User
When I did my ball joints, I used the kit from Advance Auto Parts. Had to make an adapter to help push the top joint out. I put the C clamp rod thru the upper joint hole. Even though it was at a slight angle I was able to push out and in the new lower joints. I also purchased a 3/4" breaker bar from Harbor Freight. I used lots of penetrating fluid. It took me about 16 hours total. I found Mr Gadget's Ball joint writeup to be extremely helpful.
05-23-2009, 09:48 AM
#5
Registered User
Thread Starter
Idornak, I did the same thing by moving the press around. Started with the press outside the knuckle hole and then moved it inside the hole. Gee I can't wait to do the other side....
As for front axle 4x4 u-joints this is what I've found:
Precision 374
Spicer SPL55-4X (used to be 5-733X)
ACDelco 45U0301
It's a 1.375" diameter u-joint but I find it frustrating that a lot of sites/stores don't have the sizes posted. Someone out there correct these ID's if possible, please....
As for front axle 4x4 u-joints this is what I've found:
Precision 374
Spicer SPL55-4X (used to be 5-733X)
ACDelco 45U0301
It's a 1.375" diameter u-joint but I find it frustrating that a lot of sites/stores don't have the sizes posted. Someone out there correct these ID's if possible, please....
05-23-2009, 11:42 AM
#6
Registered User
Join Date: May 2007
Posts: 273
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Idornak, I did the same thing by moving the press around. Started with the press outside the knuckle hole and then moved it inside the hole. Gee I can't wait to do the other side....
As for front axle 4x4 u-joints this is what I've found:
Precision 374
Spicer SPL55-4X (used to be 5-733X)
ACDelco 45U0301
It's a 1.375" diameter u-joint but I find it frustrating that a lot of sites/stores don't have the sizes posted. Someone out there correct these ID's if possible, please....
As for front axle 4x4 u-joints this is what I've found:
Precision 374
Spicer SPL55-4X (used to be 5-733X)
ACDelco 45U0301
It's a 1.375" diameter u-joint but I find it frustrating that a lot of sites/stores don't have the sizes posted. Someone out there correct these ID's if possible, please....
05-23-2009, 03:33 PM
#7
Registered User
Thread Starter
That's what I'm trying to find out. From what I've read, the Spicer joints are superior to any other but are fairly expensive. Most people replace the u-joints when replacing the wheel bearing or ball joints because you have all the hard pieces off already.... Also, even though you only use 4wd a few times a year the joints are still spinning, just not under load....
Trending Topics
05-23-2009, 10:36 PM
#8
Registered User
i have NEVER heard of using a torque wrench on grease fittings!!!!! how stupid can you get
quote.....The top joint went in pretty easy and the bottom was much harder. Once square pressure is applied it goes in pretty fast, though. I did find out that the little aluminum zerk fitting only needs about 2 ft lbs. of torque or it will shear right off. Nice time to learn about zerk fitting torque specs.... I tried drilling out the hole with the intention of rethreadling the piece for the zerk from the other ball joint I had for the other side of the truck. After about an hour of swearing and useless drilling I admitted defeat and pushed the lower ball joint out. I used the spare and it went in fairly easily. I also only used 1.9 ft lbs. of torque on that zerk fitting this time. Put the boot on and put the knuckle back on. Tightened the nuts, put the cotter keys in, and lubed them up.
quote.....The top joint went in pretty easy and the bottom was much harder. Once square pressure is applied it goes in pretty fast, though. I did find out that the little aluminum zerk fitting only needs about 2 ft lbs. of torque or it will shear right off. Nice time to learn about zerk fitting torque specs.... I tried drilling out the hole with the intention of rethreadling the piece for the zerk from the other ball joint I had for the other side of the truck. After about an hour of swearing and useless drilling I admitted defeat and pushed the lower ball joint out. I used the spare and it went in fairly easily. I also only used 1.9 ft lbs. of torque on that zerk fitting this time. Put the boot on and put the knuckle back on. Tightened the nuts, put the cotter keys in, and lubed them up.
05-24-2009, 01:56 AM
#9
Registered User
i have NEVER heard of using a torque wrench on grease fittings!!!!! how stupid can you get
quote..... I did find out that the little aluminum zerk fitting only needs about 2 ft lbs. of torque or it will shear right off. Nice time to learn about zerk fitting torque specs...
quote..... I did find out that the little aluminum zerk fitting only needs about 2 ft lbs. of torque or it will shear right off. Nice time to learn about zerk fitting torque specs...
I don't think he meant that literally.
05-24-2009, 07:44 AM
#10
Registered User
Thread Starter
My sense of humor sometimes gets in the way of facts, literally. And calling someone stupid because you can't infer humor is really humorless.... Maybe I should also attempt to eschew polysyllabism for the rest of us former Marines. As my father used to say, "I don't know what ignorance and apathy are and I don't care." I formally declare here and now that all of my posts will contain what I believe to be humor (as in using a torque wrench set at 2 ft. lbs., breaking the small aluminum fitting and then backing it of to 1.9 ft. lbs...). I thought that was pretty funny but your results may differ. I'm going to take a nap now....
05-24-2009, 11:25 PM
#13
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Slave Lake,Alberta
Posts: 185
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
there is a snap on press that some of the guys use and says it makes life a whole lot easier, just dont have a part number for ya fellas.maybe some one else more worldy than i can scrounge that up for all our sakes.
05-24-2009, 11:28 PM
#14
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Slave Lake,Alberta
Posts: 185
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
well heck,this internet thing actually works for me some times.i believe its snap on part #BJP1.but then again........last guy that listen to me bought an electric car.......
05-24-2009, 11:38 PM
#15
DTR's Locomotive Superhero and the DTR Sweet Tea Specialist
Good to see your rebuild went well. I did mine a little over a year ago, did both hubs, 4 ball joints, all the tierods, u-joints (axle and driveshaft), and brakes. Took me a little over day to do it all, and that included running back to the store cause they gave me a wrong part. Also did the power steering method to loosen the hubs and it works well. Put everything back together and used antiseize everywhere it was needed so the next time it hopefully comes apart easier.