sennbj

Ok, it looks like it is time to replace my ball joints and drag link. With only 55K you wouldn't think so, but it is. Anyways, if this has to be done every 50K I am thinking I might need to tool up and do it myself. Has anyone done this on a 2001, and if so, what parts/tools, how nasty is it, and all that?<br><br>Brad<br>Ram 2500 2001.5 ExtCab SB, Rancho 9000, Moog Trackbar, PowerEdge EZ.

Scubasteve

I would suggest you get yourself some grease zerks and put them in all the steering linkages unless you want to replace the rest of it on short order. As far as the ball joints go I dont think you can get them aftermarket yet and the factory ones are big dollars to say the least. I would reccomend a good grease in the fittings that has a high shock load rating like what you would use in farm machinery. <br><br>Good luck<br><br>Jason

AKDSLDOG

Definatly stay away from the dealer! Can you say CACHING!..Go after market with &quot;GREASE ZERK'S&quot; and you will get at least 100k out of the next set. I have not done b-joints yet on a dodge, but if it requires taking off the rotors you will need this lovely little puller for only $110.00. I found out the hard way changing axle seals on a 97', the rotor, wheel bearing is a splined unit, and you will not get it off with out a puller. &gt;..One of dodges creations I did not like!

Sootblower

This link is good for getting the axles out. Make sure you look at seals with flashlight looking for sand and grit before re-installing axles. Most dealers do not take time to clean axle tubes and get more business when seal starts leaking later. Sand is not good in differential gears either. I used a big shop vac and sucked them out. Good luck. It is a big job but not impossible for a weekend.<br>Axle Tech Dana 60 <br>

Scotty

I will be reworking the front of my 2001 3500 4x4 as soon as I get it back with the rebuilt 6 spd. :'(<br>I am at 93,000 kilometers or...yup you guessed it 55,000 miles. I will try and find replacement aftermarket with zerks for ANYTHING I can.<br><br>Anyone find a good aftermarket steering stabalizer that is not Rancho?<br><br>I have some LUBETEC synthetic grease, I just need more zerks.

sennbj

I stopped by my favorite Alignment/Suspension shop last night and talked with them for a while. They do not have a source for the ball joints except the dealer I found this on the web, but have not found a distributor yet. Anyone have any info about these or what do you think?<br><br>http://www.ingallseng.com/parts/615.htm

Scubasteve

I phoned these ppl last years and was told they only sold the upper ball joint which still leaves you to buy the lower ball joint. The problem is that the ball joints are sold as a set(upper and lower) so I am not sure if you are ahead of the game or not. What I ended up doing was buying ALL the steering linkages and drilling them for grease zerks and hove found them to pretty good so far. What else I did was put a slit in the boot so it was possible to purge the old grease from the joints (slit the rubber where it rolls under so no dirt can get into the joint).<br><br>As far as the balljoints go if you end up doing it your self you can drill the lower joint so you can grease it as well just drill it a bit off center close to the fron of the vehicle so the U joints dont clean the zerk off..<br><br><br>Good luck and if you do find an after market place for ball joints and drag links etc please post it here. I am sure we are not the only ones who will be needing to replace them.<br><br>P.S Dodge should have a look at the ford tie rod ends etc... pretty substainal in comparison.<br><br><br>Jason

59Dsul

As far as stabilizers, I bought a Skyjacker unit a couple of weeks ago, purchased it from National Tire and Wheel. Depending on the price of drag links, you could consider a Luke's Link, I did it at the same time as my stabilizer. So far I'm impressed with the links, once you get a rythym going, each link only takes about 10-15 minutes to rebuild each one(once you get it loose) and alignment stays the same as before.

Junk Yard Dog

Try a parts store that handles MOOG, I've bought upper and lowers already for quite a substantial savings. I think from the dealer they come as a set of two, upper and lower. Oh, the MOOG replacements had grease fittings.<br>Rick

CoastalDav

My son just replaced his lower ball joints on his 96CTD at 199K. They were MOOG. 133 dollars retail at the front end shop that did the work. Going to need them on mine soon. <br>Just put a new set of Michelins on and had the front end done. Just starting to see a little movement on both sides. <br>Truck has 93K on it. <br><br>Dave

sennbj

So, Moog does not make any ball joints for my truck year. I am tempted to just set the truck aside for a while and get them when they come out, but I would miss my big beast.. The road I am leaning towards is buying them from the ******* and retro fitting them with grease fittings myself. Does anyone have any detailed advice on doing just that? Pictures would be really cool, if not I will take some and post them when I do it.