Ok, I have been out of the car audio for over 15 years and I decided to get a system installed in the truck (2002 Quad cab). I know of internet web pages like crutchfield, wooferetc.om to name a few but, I wanna know from fellow Dodge Ram owners what works. I did the search function and the topics are either outdated or do not address the change in technology.

Head unit? Alpine CDE-125BT
Disc Playback Type: CD/CD-R/CD-RW
• Music Playback: MP3 Playback
• Zero data Mute: 0 Bit Mute
• Digital Servo: Digital Servo
• Music Sensor: Music Sensor Scan/Repeat
• Playback Control: Play/Pause/Forward/Backward
• M.I.X. Mode: One (Folder)/All (Random Play)/Random (CD Only)
• Easy Navigating: Quick Search
• Connection Type: USB
• USB Input: USB Input Front Panel Input
• Music Playback: MP3 Playback
• Power Output: Max 50 W x 4 High Power Amplifier
• Display: White LCD (14 Segment)
• Control Type: Rotary Encoder ****
• Face Color: Black
• Illumination Buttons: Blue Illuminated Buttons
• PreOut: 1 PreOut (2V, Front/Subwoofer Selectable)
• Auxiliary Input: Front
• Bass & Treble Controls
• Fader & Balance Controls
• Clock: Built-In Clock
• DIN Trim Plate: DIN Trim Plate Detachable Trim Plate
• Detachable Face Plate: Detachable Face Plate
• Dimmer: Dimmer Input
• Power Antenna Lead Output
• Remote Turn-On: Remote Turn-On Output
• Audio Interrupt Input
• Remote Control Ready
• iPod Ready: KCE-433iV Required, Sold Separately
• WMA Playback: Yes
• RMS Power Output: 4x20 Watts
• Remote Control: Optional
• Preamp Voltage: 2 volts
• Subwoofer Preamp Outputs: Front/Sub Selectable
• MP3 playback: Yes
• Maximum Power: 4x50 Watts
• DIN: 1
• Detachable Face: Yes
• CD-R/CD-RW Compatible: Yes
• CD Text: Yes
• Built-in EQ: Yes
• Bluetooth: Yes
• Aux input: Yes
• Front USB Input: Yes
• Rear USB Input: No
• Pre-amp outputs: 2


Speakers:

Front - Focal 165 V30
Woofer: 6 1/2" (165mm)
Voice-coil: 1" (25mm)
Magnet: 3 1/3" (85mm)
TNB inverted dome
Separate crossover 6/12 or 12/18 dB/oct (3.7kHz or 5kHz)
Adjustable tweeter level: 0, -3dB
Max. power: 160W
Nom. power: 80W
Sensitivity (2.8V/1m): 92dB
Frequency response: 55Hz – 25kHz

Rears - Focal 165 CA1
•Speaker Size: 6-1/2"
•Design: 2-way
•Tweeter Design: Inverted Dome
•Tweeter Composition: Aluminum
•Woofer Surround: Butyl Rubber
•Speaker Grilles: Included
•Peak Power Handling: 120 watts
•RMS Power Handling: 60 watts
•Sensitivity: 92 dB
•Frequency Response: 60 - 20000 Hz
•Impedance (per voice coil): 4 ohms
165-CA1 - Focal Access 165 CA1 6.5" 2 Way Coaxial Speakers 165 CA1


Amplifier

Focal - Solid 4
•4-channel car amplifier
•75 watts RMS x 4 at 4 ohms (100 watts RMS x 4 at 2 ohms)
•200 watts RMS x 2 bridged output at 4 ohms (4-ohm stable in bridged mode)
•CEA-2006 compliant
•variable high- and low-pass filters (50-150 Hz, 12 dB/octave)
•Class-A/B amplifier design
•frequency response: 10-60,000 Hz
•preamp- and speaker-level inputs
•4-gauge power and ground leads recommended — wiring and hardware not included with amplifier
•fuse rating: 25A x 2
•Dimensions: 11-13/16"W x 2"H x 7-7/8"D

A local stereo installer suggested a sub to balance out the system but, then that opens another ball of wax (about 1k extra). I already have the truck completely dynamated. I know there are better products out there for the money but, I am trying to keep it all one brand. Any help and/ or suggestions would greatly be appreciated..

Kurt

 

I always ran an Alpine head because they are so sweet. I wouldn't even know what one looked like nowadays.

Does Kriket still make speakers, they were pretty nice back in my day.

I haven't done anything with the stocker in my truck due to $$ and the weird wiring witt the amp on each speaker etc.

Whatever you go with get one that has the MP3/iPod jack so you don't need to mess with wires and stuff.....I bet you already knew that

 

Yes to the Ipod jack.. the head unit will play MP3. I did not have intentions on buying a sub, enclosure and amp but, that opens another question. Is there a need if I upgrade with good components, head unit and amp? I was advised that the back speakers are 5.25 and do not have to be good quality cause they are fill speakers. The components I chose for the rear are 6.5 but, was told that the mounting solution would be to the inside plastic inner panel. I was not to keen on that setup. Thought with a mounting plate the could be mounted to the doors over factory location. I guess we will have to wait and see.... I was thinking from an imaging stand point that without a sub this would be a good setup... thanks for the response


Kurt

 

My BIL had the whole bumping system in his 2nd gen and it really covered up sound from the engine and road noise, but when he'd turn the key to wait to start it was really loud, Really, really loud considering we had it up over all the other noises.

He had an aftermarket box where the rear seat would normally go with 2 12" subs, and speakers in the front doors, with tweeters in the pillars, all upgraded stuff. The amp(s) were in the box w/ the subs. His stuff was nice, but not high end by any means and the sound was good.
I do not think there were any speakers in the quad doors. Most posts I have read on these, guys went with 6" or a little larger speakers since the 5 1/4"ers are an odd size.
Most pull all the factory stuff, run a new head unit and amps. The factory amped speakers are a pain.

 

I honestly forget the brand speakers I have, but I think the rear door speakers were the stock size, and work OK. 6.5's would be much better if you can make them work, I'm sure it's possible without too much work. It's hard to get a "bad" head now these days, pretty much get what you pay for, and choosing what you like for options. I've had good luck with JVC.

I used to have 2 10's under the back seat, with a 1.8k watt amp (might have been more/less, I honestly forget all the details of it). All got stolen. It was the BEST for drive in theaters. I do miss it sometimes, but they do call for attention, not something I try to do anymore. That and I kinda hate seeing everyone thumping around "gangsta" style, but that's just me. For now I like having just the stock size replacement speakers, and a 200w/50x4 head unit with the aux input. Wish it was in the back though, so I could run a longer cord under the carpet up to the center console somewhere.

 

I agree with gorms...you do get what you pay for. I have had great experience with both Kenwood and Alpine. If you don't want to do the whole subwoofer thing and go "gangsta" you might want to consider a component set. Basically you get a 6" or maybe even a 6x9 for your mid/bass and then a separate cone tweeter for the highs. they put out good sound with out all the bump bump. They are cheaper then the sub/amp route. Good luck on your hunt.

swordfish

 

Thanks for those who have responded. I guess part two of question should be:

Does anyone have direct knowledge/ experience with Focal speakers and even the models I was going to use?

 

RottnRam, not to hi jack your thread, but how big of a difference did your Dynamat make in regards to engine and exhaust noise in the cab? I recently purchased all the materials to deaden my cab and was just wondering how big of a difference I could expect. Thanks!

 

i vote for an infinity basslink.
$200~100 off craigslist.


if you are dynamatted, it should sound awesome.

mine sounds great.

an MP3 player thru the headphone jack is crappy.
it drives me nuts trying to change stations & get a decent sound of mine thru the headphone jack.

you should get an iPOD and a deck that can control it.
then you can use the headunit & a remote to change songs and keep your eyes on the road.