EricE

Hi. New to the forum. Sorry for the long post. Information overload has set in, after searching old threads for awhile, so I'll just ask again, what may have been asked and answered many times before. . . But first, the background.
I have never owned a truck or a diesel before, and have no experience working on my own vehicles (and don't feel inclined to learn). We need to buy a truck to pull our two-horse trailer. The trailer with horses weighs between 5-7,000 lbs. Trips will mostly be short (under 1 hr. each way) but will involve going up and down mountain highways, secondary roads and gravel and dirt roads to trailheads. We probably won't use the truck more than a few times a month. We want to run the truck on commercially-purchased biodiesel, (available locally), B99 weather permitting. My research and discussions with diesel mechanics kept pointing to two diesels, the Cummins or a pre-'86 Ford with the 7.3 International, which I am ruling out due to the age.
So far, I have narrowed things down a bit, but may be wrong on my conclusions. I have been told that I should look for a 2nd generation with under 150,000 miles, for under $15,000 (and under $10,000 would be great) for the following reasons:
1) 2nd gen. because of a stronger frame (and brakes?) than 1st. gen., no problems with degradation of older hoses by biodiesel, and simpler, easier, cheaper to maintain than 24 valve, electronic, 3rd generation.
2) 4wd because getting stuck on some forest road due to some slippery mud or soft sand with two horses doesn't sound fun
3) under 150,000 miles because the engines will go a lot longer, but the truck itself may be getting a bit worn as the miles increase.
4) I don't know about manual or auto. We are comfortable with manuals in our cars, but are not experienced driving a diesel truck with a load. I have heard of problems with the automatics, but have also heard that our lack of experience could cause us problems with a stick.
5) Do I modify the engine to increase power, efficiency, or improve the transmission durability?
6) Should I have exhaust brakes installed to make it easier and less stressful coming down the mountain?

So, am I on the right track? All advice and opinions will be greatly appreciated.

EricE

Just bought a silver 97 extended cab, 4wd, manual, after a thorough pre-purchase inspection and a thumbs up from the mechanic. The truck needs new ball joints, a rear axel sleeve and new serpentine belt, which the seller is paying for, by reducing his selling price. As soon as the original repairs are done, the next step will be adding exhaust brakes, extra gauges and protecting against KDP - killer dowel pin.

RickCJ

Eric,
Buy the newest truck you can afford, all older trucks need some maintanance to keep them running.
Since you don't want to tinker or learn how to work on an older 12 valve you be better off getting a 24 valve since it has more power stock and is very easy to Bomb, just plug in and go. The biggest problem with Dodge trucks is the steering.

SolarYellow05

When you're looking for a truck, be sure to find out if the injection pump has been replaced and how many miles the current pump has on it. That is gonna be the most likely part to fail on a cummins. Also be sure to check the ball joints and overall condition of the front axle. A manual diesel truck is no more difficult to drive than a manual car. It's just bigger. Don't make the mistake some people do and give the truck fuel when you're taking off. Let the clutch out without hitting the throttle. If you're goin with an older truck to strictly pull I would say go manual. The only thing you have to worry about breaking or wearing out is the clutch and a few seals. Definitely buy a 4wd if you're gonna be off pavement. As far as modifications go...buy a truck, tow with it a couple times, and then decide if it has enough power for you. Exhaust and a cold air intake are gonna help keep the truck cool, especially when pulling. If you do decide to modify anything, be sure you have a pyrometer (exhaust temp) gauge at the bare minimum so you can see if you're getting the truck too hot. If you buy a manual you shouldn't need to upgrade anything as long as the clutch is in good shape.

EricE

Dead on! The pre-purchase inspection determined that the truck needed new ball joints. (The seller lowered his price to cover the fix.) The clutch was just replaced, so I should be good to go.

boostedte37

got to love this place

XLR8R

How much did it end up costing ya?

EricE

$13k for 97 SLT 4wd manual, ext. cab, 134,000 miles, with truck liner, tow package, installed gooseneck hitch, custom wheels. It will cost me another $1,000 to replace all ball joints, a leaking rear axel sleeve and serpentine belt.