gator_grabber

I need to replace the ball joints on my 2WD 99 2500 with the 8800 suspension package; are there any differences from the standard ball joints? I've not seen it referenced, but it never hurts to check before taking everything all apart! Thanks

nkennedy

What's the 8800 suspension package?

gator_grabber

8800 GVW (gross vehicle weight); it's a heavier steering system used on 2500 trucks with the camper package. I know some of the linkage is different, but I don't know about the ball joints. I'm guessing no difference...

Rare1

I have 8800 GVW and no camper package. I thought it was standard.

gator_grabber

I thought the same until I went to buy an idler arm a couple of years ago; the 8800 stuff was significantly beefier. 3500 parts perhaps??

johnh

the bj's are riveted in ....after you change them the first time, it's a piece of cake

gator_grabber

I'll assume you took a grinder to the rivets, correct? I was looking at Moogs for the replacements, but AutoZone has an attractive price with a lifetime warranty. Anyone use ball joints form AZ?

traverler48

My truck is a 8800 or thats what it says on the door jam. The ball joints are pressed in with a spot weld on each side of the bottom joints. I wish mine were riveted. Advance Auto carries the Moog joints but from what I have read on here I don't know if they are any better. They once was. My joints are still good but my boots are cracked. Thats a bomber. I think I will clean them up good and put a little RTV on them for a while.

gator_grabber

I went ahead and got the AutoZone parts. Question...is there a good write up on changing out these parts on a 2WD? Lots of 4WD pages, little on the 2WD. Any leads?

gator_grabber

Help! Does anyone have an idea on how to properly install the lower joint without tearing the boot? With the boot permanently attached to the body of the joint, I'm not seeing the solution to pressing it in. Thanks!

gator_grabber

Problem solved...using physics. Actually, I dressed the hole in the lower control arm with an abrasive wheel, removing all burrs, rust, etc. While I was doing that the ball joint sat in the freezer for a couple of hours (YMMV), allowing the metal to slightly contract. Once chilled the joint just slid into place (with a little persuasion from a jack) and I could reassemble everything. It's a simple trick, so you may want to remember it. BTW, if I had access to dry ice, it would have gone quicker!