2nd gen RWAL troubleshooting
#1
2nd gen RWAL troubleshooting
Hey everyone, I've searched but all I have found is 1st gen related. I'd like to temporarily bypass my RWAL dump valve (under the master cyl) for troubleshooting purposes. I have a brake pedal that sinks to the floor with the truck running. the pedal still falls with all 3 rubber lines clamped. Bench bled the new MC 2 times.
My questions are:
1: Are the input line and nut and the output line and nut the same size?
2: If they arent, what sizes are they?
Thanks,
Travis
My questions are:
1: Are the input line and nut and the output line and nut the same size?
2: If they arent, what sizes are they?
Thanks,
Travis
#2
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Location: North Carolina or Kentucky. Take your pick
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This has not been a active thread. ABS brake diagnois must not be popular.
Eliminating the Dump valve will not help your situation IMO.
I gather the pedal goes to floor with pressure applied over a short period of time. Even with hoses clamped. So wheel cyls are not leaking. Problem must be in MC or booster. It has had two MC you say. You know that after bench bleeding you still have to bleed the brake system, right!!!
Sounds like MC's are junk or the booster is leaking internally. Will it still supply boost after engine is shut off for a few minutes??? By the way, you ruined the hoses when you clamped them shut. The metal braiding destroys the inside lining. The hose may not leak but, will block fluid on release. The abs module cannot store fluid.
Eliminating the Dump valve will not help your situation IMO.
I gather the pedal goes to floor with pressure applied over a short period of time. Even with hoses clamped. So wheel cyls are not leaking. Problem must be in MC or booster. It has had two MC you say. You know that after bench bleeding you still have to bleed the brake system, right!!!
Sounds like MC's are junk or the booster is leaking internally. Will it still supply boost after engine is shut off for a few minutes??? By the way, you ruined the hoses when you clamped them shut. The metal braiding destroys the inside lining. The hose may not leak but, will block fluid on release. The abs module cannot store fluid.
#3
Registered User
brakes
Hey everyone, I've searched but all I have found is 1st gen related. I'd like to temporarily bypass my RWAL dump valve (under the master cyl) for troubleshooting purposes. I have a brake pedal that sinks to the floor with the truck running. the pedal still falls with all 3 rubber lines clamped. Bench bled the new MC 2 times.
My questions are:
1: Are the input line and nut and the output line and nut the same size?
2: If they arent, what sizes are they?
Thanks,
Travis
My questions are:
1: Are the input line and nut and the output line and nut the same size?
2: If they arent, what sizes are they?
Thanks,
Travis
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#10
I know where to get the fittings, i was jsut hoping to not have to take the block off and drive there to test to see what fitting and line size I need. I was hoping some one could tell me so I could just drive there get the fittings and do the work once. If no one knows by weds, I will make the sacrifice and I will post up my findings.
Thanks,
Travis
Thanks,
Travis
#12
Jim, that would be greatly apreciated!!! Don't go out of your way though. my situation is a little odd, my truck is 20 min from my house, and the parts stores are 20 min back towards my house so you see where its kinda a pain.
Thanks again,
Travis
Thanks again,
Travis
#13
Registered User
fittings
I too would like to know where to get a better supply of brake fittings> There is a web sight that does conversions from vacuum to hydro boost on jeeps and a few dodges. I talked to the guys and they are good to work with. I had thought I might give the guys a call and see if they would be willing to sell me the brakes fittings and I will buy a good double flaring tool. I am going to try to find the block today. The holidays are eating up my spare time Jim
#14
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Join Date: Jan 2006
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If you're seeing no wet leak-sign on any wheel, along the frame, or under the master cylinder, then the mc is leaking internally - 'rebuilt' ones are the worst, as water oxidizes the aluminum versions, rusts the cast-iron versions, leaving pits in the bore - new replacement piston-cup rubbers cannot seal to pits - install a new mc for best service and reliability
Low brake-pedal results when the rear wheel automatic brake self-adjusters stop adjusting - increased rear wheel-cylinder travel due to normal shoe-wear causes increased master cylinder piston travel = brake pedal travels nearly to floor B4 braking begins = can put master cylinder pistons into etched pitted area(s), causing pedal to slowly go clear to floor - worser the leak, faster the bleed-past.
Now, if the pedal is sinking to floor without being pressed, engine running, that is vacuum booster leak, or internal hydraulic leak in hydro-boost from heat-hardened seals\cups\o-rings - booster rebuild is required in either case
Low brake-pedal results when the rear wheel automatic brake self-adjusters stop adjusting - increased rear wheel-cylinder travel due to normal shoe-wear causes increased master cylinder piston travel = brake pedal travels nearly to floor B4 braking begins = can put master cylinder pistons into etched pitted area(s), causing pedal to slowly go clear to floor - worser the leak, faster the bleed-past.
Now, if the pedal is sinking to floor without being pressed, engine running, that is vacuum booster leak, or internal hydraulic leak in hydro-boost from heat-hardened seals\cups\o-rings - booster rebuild is required in either case
#15
gmctd,
I'd agree with you however this is the 2nd NEW MC and it does it a tthe exact same rate, and it does it at the same rate with the original MC. There are numerous threads here and other CTD sites that describe this problem to a T and it has either been a faulty RWAL valve or one with air. I have bled the RWAL very well and the problem still exists. I am trying to take the next logical step and eliminate the RWAL valve with a $3 piece of brake line instead of spending $200 to replace it on little more than a whim. I am also trying to save some time by finding out if the RWAL fittings are common ize or some off the wall size before I drive 20min each way to where my truck is vs a parts store.
Travis
I'd agree with you however this is the 2nd NEW MC and it does it a tthe exact same rate, and it does it at the same rate with the original MC. There are numerous threads here and other CTD sites that describe this problem to a T and it has either been a faulty RWAL valve or one with air. I have bled the RWAL very well and the problem still exists. I am trying to take the next logical step and eliminate the RWAL valve with a $3 piece of brake line instead of spending $200 to replace it on little more than a whim. I am also trying to save some time by finding out if the RWAL fittings are common ize or some off the wall size before I drive 20min each way to where my truck is vs a parts store.
Travis