TheNeckasaurus

Im lookin at buyin my first diesel, I know its gonna be a 97-2000 or so being that thats where the size of my wallet is haha...anyways everyone says to go with the 12v but I cant find any here in the fresno county area, a guy has a 99 24v for sale for 4900 and im very interested. But if the 24v is just gonna give me trouble then Id rather keep looking. Any input/advice on this would be much appreciated. Thanks, Jake.

Robert Rausch

As I understand it the biggest problem with the 24V trucks is the Injection pump. It is electrically driven and seems more prone to failure than the 12V pump.

The 12V has a mechanically driven pump and is lubricated by engine oil and is longer lived.

It's hard to say whether or not that particular truck will give you trouble. Has it been hot rodded? Abused? What's the mileage? There are plenty of guys with 24V trucks that have good luck with them. Maybe a few of them will chime in here and relate their experiences.

patdaly

Jake, for all the grief us 12V guys give them overvalved computer geeks, the 24V isn't a bad truck. My only issue is I want stone simple, run on almost anything, fix it with baling wire and duct tape simplicity. It isn't only about the engine, Dodge changed the rest of the truck in 98 and you have computerized this and that..........which in something that you are going to keep 20 plus years ( yep, I married Greenie ) just invites grief.

Changing a VP44 isn't nearly the hassle screwing around with a P7100 is, and for the most part, they are reliable so long as you don't cheap out on fuel supply or quality of the pump rebuilds.

If a 24V is all I can find, I would MUCH rather drive it than say, any Furd......

kreynolds

The only problem I've had with my truck (24v) is a busted dash. Maybe a few other small things but nothing big. It runs great. Averages about 17 mpg mostly city. Before buying, look it over real good and check for codes. (same stuff you would normally do when buying used). The key to any used vehicle is how well it has been maintained.

first4age

Since you are in California, you will need to consider another thing ... SMOG!

98+ .. 24V require smog

97 .. my 12V is exempt .. thank godness because I removed the EGR pipe since it cracked.

infidel

That's because the farmers know a good piece of equipment when they have one and plan on keeping their 12 valves for the rest of their lives...

TxDiesel007

FWIW

i had a 12v, and regret selling it every day.. I wish i had not done that.. and far as a 24 valve goes, just keep up with the fuel pressure on the lp and IP, and monitor it, and you should be good to go. They are not bad trucks as stated, just have a minor mishap in the VP 44.. but with good maintainance can work just fine...

oh and the dead pedal can be a problem too, but nothing a timbren cannot fix..

i am biased tho, and would hold out for a 12v.. i know what i had and they are harder or more expensive to find for a reason..

Rick

rebal

I have all 4 engines 12V ve 12 p 24V vp44 24V common rail. by far my 1990 hands down has been the most reliable. and easiest to work on ,the next most reliable would be the 97 BUT my 01 24v has not ever given me a problem but ball joints at 100k the 03 has run fine BUT, the truck has lots of flaws .as for the 97 lately its been lots of work only be cause of age like oil leaks burned out dash lights bad fuel line trans line, stuff like that come with age . but any old rig is going to need TLC.

Hodge

If you are really interested in finding a 12 valve, just look farther than Fresno County. I would not be scared of owning a 24 valve, but like stated already, there is something to be said about simplicity, and all-mechanical operation. And, I think that the 12 valve may be the most thrifty about fuel (I could be wrong). It may be worth the trip to find one.

TheNeckasaurus

HAHAHAHA!!!! That they do! I think Im going to hold out for a 12v though, to be honest the only trucks ive found so far are '99-'00 2wd excab long beds. So I know I have a search in front of me being that I wanna 12v 4x4 excab short bed. I did have a question though, did they make 24v before 1998.5? I did find a 1997 club cab long bed with these parts:
*Super B Turbo
*4 in. exaust 5in. tip
*370 Marine Injectors
*Stage 2 AFE Intake
*#10 Fuel Plate
* Top end redone 500 mi. ago
* PrimeLock Fuel System
* Billet Single Disk torque converter
* Trans. Torque lock
* Trans. Pressure lock
* A pillar gauges (EGT, Trans temp, Boost)
* 09 wheels and tires 2000 miles on them
The top end deal scares me but what do you guys think about it? for $7200

TheNeckasaurus

Ya and thats what really attracts me about the 12v, simplicity, fuel economy, power. They are just awesome....Would you guys know any good classified sites? All im going off of is craigslist and there is nothing on there! By the way, that is an excellent verse.

Stamey

"Top end redone" could be just seller-speak for "replaced head gasket". I'd ask further about it if it worries you. Find out more about what has been done to the tranny, as the automatics are the weak link in these trucks. If it has been built/set up right, it should last a long time. It appears they put a better torque converter in it, which is a good thing. I'm not sure what the torque lock and pressure lock are. I know that you want high line pressure in the tranny, because that holds the clutches better and keeps them from slipping. I run mine as high as the tranny can be adjusted for, which requires an add-on to keep the computer from going into limp mode because of the tranny pressure.
I have a 12v and a 24v, and I love them both. The 12v gets better fuel mileage, but the interior of the 99 is more refined. The perfect world is a 1998 12v, considered the holy grail by many.
Have a look at the 97 and see if it looks good, drives good, etc. While some may consider it a little high, if you're gonna keep the truck for a long time you'll forget about how much you paid and be happy you have it. I paid 5K for my 96, in 2005, and as dented up as the truck was, and in need of a whole new interior, some might have said I paid too much for it. However, I wanted a truck the was pre-dented and pre-scratched so I could put it to work without worries of the first one of either. I am quite happy I have that truck today, almost 100K later, and could care less that I may have paid too much for it. I only wish it wasn't green.



Chris

first4age

No 24V before 98.5. You know this is a 12V because of the #10 Fuel Plate.

If thats 4x4, CC and ~200K, that's a great deal. If it's 2WD, for that price, it's still a good deal, unless the paint is peeling. This is in California of course since you can get a killer deal outside of California.

I scan CL once a while hopping for a 97 12V 4x4 LB CC 5 spd. I see the auto and they still want 9-10K. You can find former construction/work truck for much cheaper but the interior is wiped out.

Junk Man

Things to fix out on 24V (all need them, not all have them):

Gauges $300
Aftermarket Fuel system - $500
Steering - aftermarket track bar & bracket $400
DSS

Perhaps:
New steering box $200 (Cardone) $400 (Readhead??, NOT AGR)
Balljoints
Dash crack.
VP44 $1500

Some of the above apply to both 12 & 24V trucks

wmcclay

Get ahold of cypress auto in Auburn, Ca. Nice clean stuff, no junk. They do have a website. Good luck I looked for about 6 months before I found mine. Lots of diesels.