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Won't Start (fuel system work)

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Old 09-27-2009, 11:04 PM
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Originally Posted by mechrisme
it seems like no one seems to have an idea of whats going on, my dad and I think like the injection pump doesnt seem to wanna take the fuel because it doesn't seem to flow much through the clear tube when it cranks over, the guy who replaced the injection pump may truck may hook up something inline with the pump to see if its getting signal
I know you've put allot of $$ into this thus far... but if you want it working, and are willing to pay, two places I highly recommend in SanAntonio. #1: Cambridge Auto (9723 Fredericksburg Rd). They're not a specialized diesel place, but they're real good (been going to them for nearly 20yrs). #2: Just beyond Rigsby @410 there's a "Diesel Injection" business (on the access road just beyond Keller Materials). Haven't had to go there yet, but it might be worth it for you. Note: Cambridge is going to be pricey...but a whole lot less than a new vehicle, and they'll get'r done.
Old 09-28-2009, 11:45 AM
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Have you checked the fuel shut off solenoid? Its the solenoid that cuts the fuel off when you the key is turned off. Maybe its stuck closed or something.
Old 09-28-2009, 02:22 PM
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Originally Posted by mechrisme
I took the fuel tank off and the module looks just fine, I drained the tank with the airdog and looped the clear line and there were no bubbles in the line, the fuel stayed in the line when I turned the airdog off unlike when it did when it was hooked to the truck
Do you have a drawstraw installed? the "stock " fitting on tank will sometimes allow air into system. When I installed my air dog 100 I tryed to sqeek by without a drawstraw.... have 1 on it now. Had what I thought was a air leak... loosing prime after 2 tanks of fuel were run through new system without a problem. I checked banjo washers, all fittings, check valve in return line, installed drawstraw and still problems.Was getting ready to replace o rings on injectors when I decided to get codes pulled. Ended up being 0216 dead V.P. I feel your pain, Nate
Old 09-28-2009, 03:49 PM
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I don't have a drawstraw but I ordered a Jeep Liberty fuel tank module today to swap in it since I dropped the tank yesterday, I think the injector pump isnt getting a signal to turn on, the relay is good, is there a way to test if its getting power other then the thing from the dealer,

isnt the fuel shut off solenoid built into the pump?
Old 09-28-2009, 05:10 PM
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I tested the two connections on the injection pump harness, circuit 1 and 2, they are the fuel injector pump data link positive and negative and I only got like 1 to 2 volts, I think I should be getting 12 volts from it
Old 09-28-2009, 07:05 PM
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I tried this and there was barely any change in voltage, maybe a volt

this is off Bluechip Diesel

OR........the best way to be sure the VP 44 is getting battery voltage, is to verify that there is battery voltage to the removable plug on the injection pump. Remove plug and hold it so it looks like a smiley face. The bottom right pin is #7, batter voltage. The bottom left pin is#6, ground. Be sure to verify voltage during the “start” function of the ignition switch as well as the “run” position.
Old 09-29-2009, 09:52 AM
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Originally Posted by mechrisme
I tried this and there was barely any change in voltage, maybe a volt

this is off Bluechip Diesel

OR........the best way to be sure the VP 44 is getting battery voltage, is to verify that there is battery voltage to the removable plug on the injection pump. Remove plug and hold it so it looks like a smiley face. The bottom right pin is #7, batter voltage. The bottom left pin is#6, ground. Be sure to verify voltage during the “start” function of the ignition switch as well as the “run” position.
voltage does not matter here just power at #7 in both start and run as stated.
As far as jeep liberty drawstaw.....Why did you go with that? I think you could have gotten by with just a #1. Check your tank to make sure vents are not plugged with dirt etc.. There is a small red or back fact. plug installed at fact. on top of mod. that should have been removed and sometimes is not also.Nate
Old 09-29-2009, 10:34 AM
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I meant there's only one volt, should there like around 12 volts? I've been told draw straws aren't that great and I say that an easier way to go. What about a small plug?
Old 09-29-2009, 01:17 PM
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Originally Posted by mechrisme
I meant there's only one volt, should there like around 12 volts? I've been told draw straws aren't that great and I say that an easier way to go. What about a small plug?
http://www.dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/ISB/low_power.htm see this link about vent plug.

As far as how many volts you should have..... I'm volt meter Illiterate I'm just going by what blue chip states if #7 wire will light up test light in start and run position your good to go. Nate
Old 09-29-2009, 05:46 PM
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well I installed the Jeep Liberty module in the fuel tank and fuel stays in the clear line unlike it did with the factory module so i say thats a good sign
Old 09-30-2009, 03:13 PM
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I tested pin 48 and 50 like I read online to the PCM and pin 50 doesn't have any power but they splice together further down the line
Old 09-30-2009, 03:16 PM
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I found this information somewhere online last night

"On the ECM you have a red/wht wire at pins 48 and 50 they need 12v. On the inj pump pin 7 red/ltgrn 12v. Grounds are pin 6 (injection pump) and pins 30 and 49 on ecm, all are blk/tan."

Like I said above, pin 48 gets 12 volts but the one on the injection pump and pin 50 on the ECM doesnt have 12 volts
Old 09-30-2009, 06:45 PM
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well alot of you'll may think I'm stupid for what I'm about to say but here it goes, Well I found where to two wires for my computer go together and fixed that short but I didnt know 5 pole relays control two different things, in short, the relay for my fuel system was half bad and I didn't check it since my fuel pump work, well 3 weeks, 1600 bucks later, truck is fixed
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