texasaggie2005

Hey y'all, what tools will I need to change my VP44? Got one on the way from Edwards Equipment (aka www.cumminsstuff.com) and I'd like to get all things in order before tearing into it all. So far I got:

1) 27mm deep socket
2) t-bar gear puller
3) a set of torx sockets (what sizes exactly)

Anything else? Also, any hints or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks y'all!

Micah K.

deezel

factory sevice manual

darrenG

I don't recall needing torx sockets. A shallow 27 will work better than deep, otherwise you're in the radiator. You'll need 10mm, 12mm, 17mm sockets, extensions, gear puller, line/brake wrenches (forgot the sizes) and probably a few more tools that I can't remember.

Before you get started, on the front of the motor, on the timing-gear cover is a cap that sticks out. Unscrew that and inside is the access to put a puller on the VP gear. Make sure you have a way to push the vp44 out using a steering wheel puller, or something, otherwise you'll have done a lot of work for no reason.

when you put the injector lines back on, the factory spec @ the head is 28ft/lbs. That's not a lot, don't jamb it down with the 3/4 (19mm) wrench as hard as you can. You'll pit the ends and have hard starts and leak diesel. You can't put a socket on it, so get acquainted with the torque.

you will definetly need to remove the intake heater gride and plenum to get access to the vp44. The camshaft sensor is behind the vp44, if it's a cheap part, might as well replace that while you're there.

texasaggie2005

what about the bolts holding the lower bracket to the pump?

PourinDiesel

You'll need the torx bit for the bracket that attaches to the fuel pump itself.
It is attached at the block/cast bracket with 2 13mm bolts.

Stamey

Injector lines are 3/4" or 19mm. I use 3/4". For the hard to reach ones, 6 and sometimes 5, I use a 3/4 crows-foot line wrench. You could use this for torquing them when reinstalling also. An inspection mirror is quite handy also, for looking at the keyway. 7/16" deep, for the hump hose going to the air horn. If you find you need to take the engine lifting loop off (I do), you'll need a 17mm wrench and shallow socket, depending on how much you can leverage with either.
Make SURE the keyway on the VP44 is pointing up before you take the gear loose. I didn't once, and had to pull the timing cover off to retrieve the key that fell down into it. You may need to remove the nut and washer from the front pf the pump, then bar it over.
The arrow on the key goes towards the pump. Use the key that came with the pump (this is important).

Chris

jwjgt

Check this out http://www.nwbombers.com/membersites/kent/vp44.html

OUTDOORSMAN

thanks for the link. very helpful.