24valvepuller

we didn't even try to keep the cruise working, but I was told it is not a problem to keep it working. I got the 215 pump, and had columbus diesel go through it, it will flow some fuel and it still has stock DV's in it. I could still tow with it with stock injectors and smaller turbo. But the hx-40 blew again and I ain't wasting anymore $ on one of those

TNutcher

Oh ic. cool. Do you have a 3 or 4 gsk in it or stock setup? Also how do u like the driving manners it has compared to the VP44?? Is it good power? good size powerband?? thanks
TNutcher

cummnz4x4pwr

TNutcher, I too have a p-pumped 24v--

If you want you can give me a call tomorrow @ 325-200-8847


Jake

BTW P-pumped is the only way to go

24valvepuller

I've got the 4k kit in mine, power is awesome, with stock injectors it seems like it would out run my old vp with the fuel full on. Street manners are just fine, a little touchy with the right foot until I got used to the 4kgsk but other than that it drives great

HOHN

I can't see a p-pump conversion unless you are shooting for over 700hp. Heck, VP trucks on nitrous are nearing 900hp.

For the cost and hassle of a conversion, you can buy a lot of VPs. The newer replacement VPs are a lot better than the older ones, and the VP is a LOT "smarter" pump.

So in the end, the VPs reliability isn't bad at all, and certainly not bad enough to destroy the streetability of a nice truck, and Frankenstein the truck with work-arounds for CC and other stuff.

Converting a 1998 would be pretty painless, but an 01 or 02 would suck bad.


The truth is that these guys are who p-pumped their street trucks have given up a lot, and while THEY are happy with it, you probably won't be. I LIKE my cruise control, and the fact that it works properly and reliably. You probably do, too.

TNutcher

Thanks guys. Yeah I think that I'll try for that when the VP does go.

HOHN, (with all do respect ) mines a 99 so I don't think it could be too much worse than a 98. And yes the VP is a smart pump, electronics can do wonders. But still, I'd love to have the proven reliability of the P7100 in my truck. Something that I can tinker with myself, rather than need to buy an electronic box to do that for me. Also 700+ HP would be awesome... . Thats not what I'm looking for at this moment but still. The computer/electronics deal just isn't as proven reliable to me as is the P7100. Thanks for the opinion though.

Thanks again,
TNutcher

24valvepuller

I haven't given up anything that I didn't want or need. I don't want, use, or need cruise, I hated the way it acted with the vp on the truck. Heck, I'm about ready to install a mech. Tach and take all that worthless computer crap off my truck and shove it down Dodges throat. The only things I've lost is the ability keep rubber on my back tires, keep an hx-40 under the hood in one piece, and the endless list of electrical problems I had last year

cummnz4x4pwr

Man I just wish you knew what your talking about

my cruise works

and is a very streetable 505 hp monster

Thanks For playin

Jake

Oh yeah hohn my conversion only cost me 1600 cya

TNutcher

Jake, puller and anyone else with a p-pump. Did you guys do it yourself?? How long did it take you to do the conversion? What all needs to go? Also if ya'll wouldnt mind, a outline of how it all went together, order and stuff. I appriciate it.
TNutcher

cummnz4x4pwr

yes I did do the conversion myself.

Here we go

pull the core support, radiator, and innercooler, take the condensor and move it to the side so you dont have to pull the refrigerant, pull the valve cover, and the rocker assemblies, and pull the pushrods, then get 12 wooden dowel rods( I CANT REMEBER THE SIZE ILL HAVE TO LOOK TOMORROW ) stick them down where the pushrods came out, and with a small hammer tap them into the end of the lifters pull the lifters up and tie 2 of the rods together at a time with rubber bands, now youll be ready to pull the cam when that time comes, go ahead and pull the vp and old injector lines off, along with the lift pump and brackets. then go ahead and unbolt the computer from the side of the block and clip whatever wire looms you have to, to make it fit to the firewall. Then start pulling the timing case cover, once youve got it off you can unblot the two bolts back behind the cam gear, then pull the cam( if you hve difficulty doing this part turn the motor over a little then try again until you get it out. then you can go ahead and pull the timing case itself (now would also be the time to replace those leaking seals and gaskets on your vacuum pump). after you get the timing case off you can stick the 12v case on and bolt it up and then stab the new cam(kill the kdp while your in there).
then get your pump and bend the return line from the pump to the tank straight. Then your going to need a real low profile 90* fitting for the bottom side of the pump so it will clear the head. then go ahead and bolt the pump up. Use the T oil fitting from the 12v that goes to the p-pump and the vacuum pump. From there all you have to do is wire up you shutoff solenoid and put your throttle linkage together.


if i fogot something just ask

Thanks
jake

HOHN

You guys who can do the conversions properly and have all the functionality of the truck have my UTMOST respect. It's NOT easy.

But I've also seen a lot of, shall we say, poorly executed conversions that ruined the streetability of the truck. End result is lots of smoke and EGT, and not much HP for the fueling.

Based on your priorities (reliablility, etc), a P-pump could very well be right for you.

But it's NOT for everyone, and it's more involved than it appears to do it properly.

For example, re-bending stock injection lines is NOT proper. It fatigues the metal and can cause failure in a line carrying THOUSANDS of psi of fuel pressure. Wise? Hardly. Buying Haisley's line kit would be closer to the "right" way to do it.

And I *KNOW* that you had custom injectors made for the different pop-off pressure of the P-pump, right???

Then there's the throttle conversion, the electronic Cruise control vs. vacuum CC, etc.

At 500hp, a VP44 truck will have less smoke and lower EGT for a given amount of fuel.


So congrats on making the P-pump work. There's more to it than just getting it running, and it's a serious undertaking that's not for everyone. The tuning time alone can be VERY frustrating.

I've lost a VP at only 40K miles, and I still like the little bugger.

jmo, ymmv

TNutcher

HOHN,
I know that if/when I do do it, it's going to take time and alot of effort, which I'm ready for. I know it will probably take a cupple weekends but I think it will be worth the effort =D. Thanks though.

Jake,
When you put the new cam in for the lift pump, did you use a 12v cam? Also stock or a hotter cam? Another question, I know you said the computer had to be put on the firewall but what about the fuel filter? does it still fit up there?? One more for now For sure the 12v case? I've heard some able to do it with 24? is that BS?? Thanks alot Jake!
TNutcher

24valvepuller

what are you running for a fuel pump now, because it need a lot more psi than does the vp

cummnz4x4pwr

You need to move the fuel filter back one bolt hole and it will fit great.

NO you can not use the 24v case bcause the pump wont fit in the hole and the bolt patern is too small

As for the cam I am running the Haisley Street Puller Cam(no need to flycut pistons) it is a 24v modified cut with the 12v lobe.

Thanks
Jake

cummnz4x4pwr

No I DID NOT have custam injectors made!!!

I had a set of jammer 5 nozzles

Yes I did have the pressure changed and that cost all of $70

And You tune it exactly like you tune a 12v---Its the same dang motor with a different head and different pistons

So whats the big ^*%&#$! deal about tuning it

unless youve done it dont talk trash about it