Vacuum pump rebuild
#1
Chapter President
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Elk River, MN
Posts: 1,124
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Vacuum pump rebuild
Did the rebuild yesterday on the pump with the kit from Fixinrams. The pump build itself just like they say was simple and painless.
I do however think that the engineers that design part placement on trucks are women on their cycle who are total man haters.
If my hand were the size of a three year olds I would have no problem.
I would also highly recommend that whoever does this job remove the pump and the steering pump as one complete unit.
I also change both diffs, tranny and tranfere case fluids while I was already dirty and sweaty and a little frustrated.
I do however think that the engineers that design part placement on trucks are women on their cycle who are total man haters.
If my hand were the size of a three year olds I would have no problem.
I would also highly recommend that whoever does this job remove the pump and the steering pump as one complete unit.
I also change both diffs, tranny and tranfere case fluids while I was already dirty and sweaty and a little frustrated.
#2
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Calera, Alabama
Posts: 322
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Do you have any tips for removing the vacuum pump/ps pump assembly? I've got the kit, but I've been dreading tackling this job after I looked at exactly where the thing is located. The actual repair of the pump looks stupid simple from the video, but of course, it doesn't show the removal from the truck.
Brad
Brad
#3
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Colorado
Posts: 1,056
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I did the vac pump rebuild and it was easy, hardest part was geting the PS hoses off. GET THE SEAL KIT FROM CUMMINS directly, it was only like $10. Plus it came with detailed instructions and pictures. I was nervous about takeing on this task, but I'd do it again with confidence.
Take the Vac pump and P/S unit out as one piece. You will have to loosen the upper boot on the inter cooler tube. Don't drop any thing down it, ie: dirt, nuts, scews. Follow the directions that come with the kit. Not only did my Vac pump stop leaking, but the PS pump got flushed in the process and is smoother now. Let me know if you have any ???
Take the Vac pump and P/S unit out as one piece. You will have to loosen the upper boot on the inter cooler tube. Don't drop any thing down it, ie: dirt, nuts, scews. Follow the directions that come with the kit. Not only did my Vac pump stop leaking, but the PS pump got flushed in the process and is smoother now. Let me know if you have any ???
#4
I just did mine a few weeks ago and it was pretty easy. Like the other guy said, the PS steering hoses are a pain in the butt, other than that though it's not bad.
Everybody knocks my truck having a body lift....but I'll tell you what, man did that make that job a MILLION times easier. I was able to do everything from the fender well, didn't have to remove the intercooler pipe, and was even able to take the vacuum pump AND power steering pump out of the fender well!!
~Nick
Everybody knocks my truck having a body lift....but I'll tell you what, man did that make that job a MILLION times easier. I was able to do everything from the fender well, didn't have to remove the intercooler pipe, and was even able to take the vacuum pump AND power steering pump out of the fender well!!
~Nick
#5
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Cheyenne
Posts: 174
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
pump
Does the kit come with the seal that goes between the back of the timing cover and that pump? i have a leak there and if am going to pull it out for that i might as well rebuild the whole thing. where did you buy this kit. from the dealership? thanks
#7
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Colorado
Posts: 1,056
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Just go to cummins and buy it. save $50. Great directions and has all the seals. I don't know what tools it comes with, but i didn't use anything other than your simple/usual tools found in a garage.
Trending Topics
#9
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Phoenix
Posts: 37
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I've got a power stearing leak and the guy I bought the truck from said it was an O-ring. I get about a nickle drip a day. Is this related to this vacuum pump deal?
I know my way around a gasser but this diesel thing is all new to me. How serious of a problem is this? I only drive the truck once a week to the grocery store so could I wait a few months to fix it?
I know my way around a gasser but this diesel thing is all new to me. How serious of a problem is this? I only drive the truck once a week to the grocery store so could I wait a few months to fix it?
#10
~Nick
#11
Registered User
You don't have to remove the power steering pump or break loose the lines to do this job.
Here are some very good instructions:
1. Remove four nuts securing Power Steering Pump (PSP) to Vacuum Pump (VP). Studs may back out of PSP. Just thread back in. Leave all PSP hoses connected. There is a spring aft of PSP on the injection pump that can get in the way. Disconnect and let hang. Do not separate PSP from VP yet.
2. Remove VP supply line and oil line at the bottom of VP. You may need to back up the fitting (7/16) at the bottom of the VP and then remove the oil line (9/16). You will get some oil drainage so be ready with a small pan.
3. Remove lower bolt attaching VP to gear case. Loosen but do not remove upper bolt completely as this will allow the whole assembly to hang down at an angle providing more room to separate the assy.
4. Gently separate PSP from VP taking care not to scar the sealing surface becoming visable attached to the PSP. Rest PSP on engine mount.
5. Remove upper bolt on VP and remove from vehicle.
6. Keep things clean. Remove two bolts and separate VP halves.
7. Set the PSP side (four legs) of VP face down on bench. Fit a deep socket (large as possible) through the hole in the center and drive the center section holding the seal from the outer housing.
8. Remove old seal and press in new. Clean all o-rings and lightly lube with grease including inside diameter of new seal and sealing surface on PSP.
9. Install center drive star and seal center section into housing. Assemble both havles of VP making sure there is no dirt inside the VP.
10. Install components in opposite order of removal. Clock drive fingers on PSP to VP to help in mating PSP to VP.
#12
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Edmonton Alberta
Posts: 2,435
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I replaced my seal 3 months ago (15,000Kms/480hrs) with the one from Cummins and it was a double lip seal,(my leaky one was an orginal single lip with 300,000Kms on it) the only difference from the above instructions was I removed it as a unit, and I left the lines installed(high pressure one) at the pump, I unhooked them up by the brake booster, the return lines I pulled off at the PS pump, I removed them last that way I was not working thru the dripping oil, IIRC it took me about 15- 20mins to have it out on the bench, the provided instructions from cummins was very helpful, just remember its a seal kit NOT a vacuum pump rebuild kit
#14
Registered User
You can get it from Cummins, but try a large truck dealer and see if they have one as well, just takes a phone call. I might save you some shipping. I know Cummins Rocky Mountain in Commerce City, CO has them. The parts department is open until noon today.
#15