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Wondering if I can just unplug the EZ tuner on my truck and it run like stock? Want to try something, and thinking just unplug the tuner. Or if I leave the jumper off will that make it like stock again?
Pete
I removed the box from the harness. Truck ran fine no smoke, but when you go to take off it's like the truck is smothering. No pickup at all so put it back on set for low. Thinking I heard someone that had just left the jumper out and the box was there but like it was factory?
Pete
Should take you about 5 minute to unplug the EZ from the MAP and reconnect the factory plug and then disconnect the EZ from the BUS. Thats all there is to it.
The only other possible thing to know is whether or not you have a boost elbow (manual transmission only) or j-hook (automatic transmission). Because if you do and you remove the EZ then you'll throw an overboost code if you get spunky with the throttle.
Thanks will unhook it and find out how it does. And I'm sure with 38 lbs of boost it has the J hook if that's what is on the Auto trans. As it has a 6 speed Allison.
Trying to see how it runs without the box. And see if its adding to the higher then I like water temps. Going to take the Radiator off in a week or so and have it rodded out and see if its clogged up inside. But will also see if its clogged up in the fins.
Pete
Hmmm..... Maybe you should explain whats going on. The EZ is only a mild timing box. You obviously have other power goodies on there too or a bogus gauge since the EZ is incapable of 38 psi. Maybe 28 psi on a good day.....depending on the truck.
So if you're having engine temperature problems then depending on your set up (Allison transmission?) then it could be any numerous things.
The Engine is a 2000 275 Factory HP RV engine out of a Diesel pusher. Has 5" Exhaust from Turbo back. Along with 3 x the air flow in than most of these engines get in a Ram. Bigger cooler pipes to and from the front Air cooling Radiator. As for the gauge being bad can be. But it shows right on lower boost. And can hit 38 lbs of boost with ease. The Gauge does flutter when its up near 38 to 40 lbs, so it may well be bad.
Thinking the heating up issues is boiling down to low flow on coolant. Will get the Rad off and see how it does when its cleaned out and flowing 100%
I may try and pick up a new Boost gauge and see how much it shows. I have one now but it only shows 25 lbs. And the other one I stuck on the 7.8 Ford engine I had it would peg it out even on the 1987 F800 Ford.
Pete
I "thought" that those RV engines came with the HX40 instead of the HX35 so maybe.....maybe your boost is correct. A general rule of thumb (definitely not scientific) is that you'll create about 1 psi for every HP generated. So if you have a 275 (which means you should have RV275 injectors), and the EZ which may be adding around 50-60 HP, then your boost could be in the mid 30's. That said, I know that the Dodge Cummins EZ's dont connect to the RV engines so I really dont know what the specs are for what you have.
Since its in a Kodiak, I'm sure it has electric fans. Just noting that the Dodge Cummins trucks had mechanical fan clutches which were capable of approximately 10,000 cfm at 2000 rpm. Thats a ton of air which was one reason why the cooling system was so good on those trucks. Many people have tried electric fans but no matter how good they are they just dont seem to have the capacity when the truck is under a load. Thats not a knock on them either but just making a point.
The cooling system on these engines did have a problem though whereby the coolant flows to the back of the engine, up into the head, and forward. Problem is that the flow around cylinders 5 and 6 get clogged up as all the coolant tries to push by, resulting in those two cylinders running hotter than the others. This is why you'll hear people burning up piston #6 first. There is a Cummins coolant bypass fitting which ties into the rear most freeze plug and allows better coolant flow but the firewall clearance is too tight for most to get in there. Most dont bother unless they're running huge power or higher RPM's because the water pump will generate some very high coolant pressure as the RPM's go up.
Another radiator issue for the Cummins trucks of your year engine was the engine blowby vent. Factory had them vent to a catch bottle in front of the engine. Trouble is that the oily vapor would suck back around to the hidden side front of the radiator and start to collect dirt and debris. Over time the front of the radiator would become plugged up to the point where the engine would run hot under load and AC temperatures would not be very cold when the truck was sitting still. Typically the only way to discover the blocked up radiator was to pull it out. A little degreaser and a garden hose (not a pressure washer) is all it would take.
Other than that, I know you're having trouble with downshifting depending on what RPM's your running at per whatever your driving conditions are, your EGT's could be so hot that its affecting engine temps. Some people will say they're not related but thats not true. Hot EGT's will force the coolant system to work even harder and eventually your engine will start to get warm.
Lastly, whats the history of your situation? Recent or have you been dealing with this for some time?
I "thought" that those RV engines came with the HX40 instead of the HX35 so maybe.....maybe your boost is correct. A general rule of thumb (definitely not scientific) is that you'll create about 1 psi for every HP generated. So if you have a 275 (which means you should have RV275 injectors), and the EZ which may be adding around 50-60 HP, then your boost could be in the mid 30's. That said, I know that the Dodge Cummins EZ's dont connect to the RV engines so I really dont know what the specs are for what you have.
Since its in a Kodiak, I'm sure it has electric fans. Just noting that the Dodge Cummins trucks had mechanical fan clutches which were capable of approximately 10,000 cfm at 2000 rpm. Thats a ton of air which was one reason why the cooling system was so good on those trucks. Many people have tried electric fans but no matter how good they are they just dont seem to have the capacity when the truck is under a load. Thats not a knock on them either but just making a point.
The cooling system on these engines did have a problem though whereby the coolant flows to the back of the engine, up into the head, and forward. Problem is that the flow around cylinders 5 and 6 get clogged up as all the coolant tries to push by, resulting in those two cylinders running hotter than the others. This is why you'll hear people burning up piston #6 first. There is a Cummins coolant bypass fitting which ties into the rear most freeze plug and allows better coolant flow but the firewall clearance is too tight for most to get in there. Most dont bother unless they're running huge power or higher RPM's because the water pump will generate some very high coolant pressure as the RPM's go up.
Another radiator issue for the Cummins trucks of your year engine was the engine blowby vent. Factory had them vent to a catch bottle in front of the engine. Trouble is that the oily vapor would suck back around to the hidden side front of the radiator and start to collect dirt and debris. Over time the front of the radiator would become plugged up to the point where the engine would run hot under load and AC temperatures would not be very cold when the truck was sitting still. Typically the only way to discover the blocked up radiator was to pull it out. A little degreaser and a garden hose (not a pressure washer) is all it would take.
Other than that, I know you're having trouble with downshifting depending on what RPM's your running at per whatever your driving conditions are, your EGT's could be so hot that its affecting engine temps. Some people will say they're not related but thats not true. Hot EGT's will force the coolant system to work even harder and eventually your engine will start to get warm.
Lastly, whats the history of your situation? Recent or have you been dealing with this for some time?
Need to look and see for sure. But just figured the truck had the HX35 on it, but may well have the HX40 on it.
I do know the pistons are coated and all the other parts were coated also. Not saying that helps, but the guy that did the build picked this engine because of the 275HP from the factory. Along with him having a custom shop go through it and make sure everything was good for heavy hauling.
The Tuner is for a 2001 and I think 2002 model. And to get everything including the trans to work together. They also used a 98 model I think wiring harness. Its all in the paper work. As I received a big packet of paper work with the truck. Showing every part they used who did what and part numbers to do the swap.
As for the fans, it has dual fans. Company paper work shows 9000 CFM. Not saying I believe that, but they did there job when I first got the truck. Temps did not move off 200 degrees. They were running a high temp Thermostat in the truck. I put a 180 cummins back in it last year when I had the head gasket replaced.
That is one thing I will be checking for when I remove the Rad. See if it has the oil issues like the pickups had. But then again my pipe is plumbed different then the mopar ones. But still thinking air flow may well be it. That or its just not flowing the right amount of water flow through the system. Will be draining the liquids out of the system next weekend I hope. Been waiting until I got my Pickup running. That way this one can be down for a few days at a time. And will run this one 3 days or so with super flush in the water system. Then drain it out and see now it does.
Truck started running hotter after the Heater core started leaking. I swapped that out and the issue started. No way that should cause any issues. But it happened at the same time.
Truck ran stable temps grossing 30,000+ running 70 to 85 in interstates. Going from West Tn to East tn no issues. Then after the heater core deal. The temps starting rising.
EGT's so far have never gotten above 1100 degrees. This is with the sensor between 5 and 6 cylinder in the manifold. Also agree high EGT's will make the water temps get up there fast. Same as a trans that is heating up will raise the temps also. Trans temp gauge shows 220 max and that's grossing 30,000+ in town. Or even pulling hard it still stays around that or less.
I know this engine max Torque is around 1500 and figure the tune is just off that much. But to me it should downshift at 1700 or so. That way your never letting it pull down below Max Torque like this.
Have been looking and if I flip the fan mount up side down on this set up. I think it would allow me to run the factor Ram fan. Would have to build a fan shroud. But have the Aluminum here to build one now.
Having the engine temps increase right after the heater core replacement is odd. I'd generally would think thats because of a air pocket in the coolant system.
That said, I dont know of a 180* thermostat for the 24 valve engine which comes with the "jiggle pins". The 195* thermostate does and the pins are there to perform two functions. To allow a constant flow of coolant for better heater core circulation and to allow the system to better purge out entrapped air. If your thermostat doesnt have jiggle pins then you very well could be dealing with a stubborn pocket of air.
And also, the 24 valve does much better with the 195* thermostat. It should allow the engine to run stable at 190* (+/- a few degree's) and it will keep the cylinder head temperatures warmer which is what the higher flowing 24 valve head needs in order for optimal combustion temperatures. With that you should expect better power output and better fuel mileage. The 12 valves came with the 180* because the heads hold more heat.
Having the engine temps increase right after the heater core replacement is odd. I'd generally would think thats because of a air pocket in the coolant system.
That said, I dont know of a 180* thermostat for the 24 valve engine which comes with the "jiggle pins". The 195* thermostate does and the pins are there to perform two functions. To allow a constant flow of coolant for better heater core circulation and to allow the system to better purge out entrapped air. If your thermostat doesnt have jiggle pins then you very well could be dealing with a stubborn pocket of air.
And also, the 24 valve does much better with the 195* thermostat. It should allow the engine to run stable at 190* (+/- a few degree's) and it will keep the cylinder head temperatures warmer which is what the higher flowing 24 valve head needs in order for optimal combustion temperatures. With that you should expect better power output and better fuel mileage. The 12 valves came with the 180* because the heads hold more heat.
It runs 190 now and if your trying to run 65 it will push 200 degrees even with the 180. And this 180 did have the jiggle pin. It came from Cummins along with the factory box and the whole upper head gasket kit.
If I can get running cool again it will have the 195 thermostat back in it this fall. As I have now but waiting until I get the temps under control.
Like you first thought was air pocket. I have one of the Lisle Spill Free Funnels. Let the truck idle for 30 minutes or more until it stopped getting bubbles through the funnel. This funnel is sticking 12" or so higher then the top of the bottle.
Buddy of mine that did the head gasket a year ago this fall. He had a pressure setup that pulls the antifreeze out of his drain tank and fills the truck. Uses it on Cummins, Cat and Detroit's. And he told me when using it there's no air bubbles left. He's been doing this for 40 years, so I trust him.
Could there still be a air pocket? Yes it could be and that may be the issue. But I had the drivers side tire up on a ramp each time I do anything to the coolant and so did he. Guess I will get it worked out soon.
If not its going to be sold and buy a 2013 or above Ram. But would rather have this truck then the ram. And I love Ram's, but they can't hang with this truck. I can turn around in a turn lane in front of a place with a driveway. Where pickups have to back up and turn. I just spin around and keep going.
Thanks we enjoy it for sure. Other then at fill ups. 150 gallons of fuel but at the same time. Fill ups are a long way between.
Blown spot pass side front right in Conner of head. Truck got hot pulling a grade on Hwy 72 going west in to Huntsville Al. Got caught at the bottom of the hill at the red light. Rush hour traffic and stupid me stayed up with traffic going up that hill. Was running 50+ by the time I hit the top of it.
Had the head checked and it was flat and good. No damage to it or block, just weak spot on gasket. I had to mount my Fake Go pro to even see where it was leaking for sure. Leak was right at the edge of the head at the thermostat.
Also hard to tell what engine it has in it when you hear it running. LOL
07-22-2016, 10:19 AM
to low flow on coolant. Will get the Rad off and see how it does when its cleaned out and flowing 100%
No way that should cause any issues. But it happened at the same time.
