transmission hunting
#2
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In my estimation there is no ONE FIX for in and out of LU at 40 - 55 MPH.
Sgtart by cleaning all battery terminals, groound connections and connections associated with charging system. In addition you must have good batteries and a properlly operating Alternator.
Many speak of apps reset, but have little faith in that.
Next on my list is killing RFI signals from the alternator. This is accomplished in two steps. First find some very small wire. Bare or insulated O'K) (aluminum foil can aslo be used) and wrap from the alternator battery output terminal back up the wiring harnes two feet. Also wrap separatelly the alt control wires for the same distance. Ground there two shielding wires. Now find a radio supression condenser from the positive side of old Chrysler ignition coil. Attach the lead to the alt positive output terminal and attach the housing to alt housing. This worked in several instances for me, your success may not be the same as mine. However the cost is minimal. Some rewire the APPS and some run some shielding wires inside the cab. I have no proof that these are any more successful than my cheap fix. Several have said they work and several say they didn't. Again there is no one fix in my opinion.
Sgtart by cleaning all battery terminals, groound connections and connections associated with charging system. In addition you must have good batteries and a properlly operating Alternator.
Many speak of apps reset, but have little faith in that.
Next on my list is killing RFI signals from the alternator. This is accomplished in two steps. First find some very small wire. Bare or insulated O'K) (aluminum foil can aslo be used) and wrap from the alternator battery output terminal back up the wiring harnes two feet. Also wrap separatelly the alt control wires for the same distance. Ground there two shielding wires. Now find a radio supression condenser from the positive side of old Chrysler ignition coil. Attach the lead to the alt positive output terminal and attach the housing to alt housing. This worked in several instances for me, your success may not be the same as mine. However the cost is minimal. Some rewire the APPS and some run some shielding wires inside the cab. I have no proof that these are any more successful than my cheap fix. Several have said they work and several say they didn't. Again there is no one fix in my opinion.
#3
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i have done all of those other than rf noise shield and it will go away for 2 or 3 months and then come back. I just dissconnet the battery terminals reconnect them and its good
#4
I did the ground cleaning and RF shield, but the problem didn't go away until I put a ferrite choke around the alternator wire. The choke was cheap but I had to order it online. I don't claim it is the end all though. I am not that electrically inclined so for all I know a ferrite choke could be the same as a condenser... I got the idea for the choke from another forum member, but it was close to 2 years ago and I don't remember his name.
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AppleTree (09-17-2022)
#6
There was a also a write up from Suncoast about cutting a certain wire from the apps and then running it to a ground in the cab. I have tried the cleaning of the grounds, the yokes, the foil around the cable from the alternator. That all worked fine, then had the tranny rebuilt and it came back. Did the suncoast trick and ...knock on wood.... no more hunting. It seemed that when it would rain it would do it more often, well now....no more.
#7
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I did most of the above too including the Suncoast ground but all were temporary fixes.
I finally fixed it when I replaced both batteries and all the terminals ends on all of the wires connecting to the batteries. My cruise control even started working for the first time since I bought it used.
I finally fixed it when I replaced both batteries and all the terminals ends on all of the wires connecting to the batteries. My cruise control even started working for the first time since I bought it used.
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#8
My transmission does this when the air filter get dirty. I have also done the shielding and ground checking and had limited luck. My trans is a built unit and I run a BHAF. I can always tell when it starts to get too dirty because my trans will start to hunt and shift funny. I know it sounds strange, but when I change my air filter, all is good. In talking to the shop that built the trans, it is very sensitive to power input levels. When my power starts dropping off (dirty filter) the trans lets me know.
I thought it was BS too until I talked to the owner of the shop and changed my filter.
I thought it was BS too until I talked to the owner of the shop and changed my filter.
#9
What is the DTT Noise Filter? My truck works fine but my brothers truck is having these problems.
He's done some fixes but the problem keeps coming back. I think he has replaced his alternator twice.
Is there a Dodge/Cummins write-up on this?
He's done some fixes but the problem keeps coming back. I think he has replaced his alternator twice.
Is there a Dodge/Cummins write-up on this?
#10
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If you have an electrical noise issue, it's most commonly caused by bad batteries, bad battery connections and bad alternators. However, the wiring itself can cause this issue.
The DTT noise filter can cure most of these issues with no other problems. However, I would make sure that you have checked all the easy stuff first. Some trucks as they age cannot b cured any other way. The DTT noise filter has been a great tool to stop TC cycling!
Dave
The DTT noise filter can cure most of these issues with no other problems. However, I would make sure that you have checked all the easy stuff first. Some trucks as they age cannot b cured any other way. The DTT noise filter has been a great tool to stop TC cycling!
Dave
#11
DTT is here.
http://dieseltrans.com
http://dieseltrans.com
#13
Guys, thanks for the info. I reviewed the recommendations with my brother yesterday.... He's done some of the fixex but at best, they were temporary.
I've recommended for him to now do the following since his alternator and batteries need replacing:
1. - Purchase/Install the DTT noise filter
2. - Purchase/Install the 175amp Load Boss Alternator (I've got one also)
3. - Replace both batteries in his Dodge Ram 3500 with 8yr 1,000 CCA batteries
4. - Replace the stock Air Filter assembly with something like BHAF or AFE Stage 2's
He's done the APPS reset, extensive cleaning of the air filter, aluminum foil wire cover, ect...
His alternator wires shorted out on two (2) different occasions, both times while on the road, way from home and took the truck to the Dogdge dealer who replaced the alternator but couldn't figure out what caused the problem.
Thanks for the suggestions....
I've recommended for him to now do the following since his alternator and batteries need replacing:
1. - Purchase/Install the DTT noise filter
2. - Purchase/Install the 175amp Load Boss Alternator (I've got one also)
3. - Replace both batteries in his Dodge Ram 3500 with 8yr 1,000 CCA batteries
4. - Replace the stock Air Filter assembly with something like BHAF or AFE Stage 2's
He's done the APPS reset, extensive cleaning of the air filter, aluminum foil wire cover, ect...
His alternator wires shorted out on two (2) different occasions, both times while on the road, way from home and took the truck to the Dogdge dealer who replaced the alternator but couldn't figure out what caused the problem.
Thanks for the suggestions....
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