REDNECK-WELDING

well i got my tranny serviced and they took it for a drive...they said it felt/shifted good. then they pulled the pan...the oil was bad...very bad...no metal in the fluid..the front band was out alot almost 1/2"...they think it is the tourque converter..i dont have the cash to get a built tranny right now as i am buying tires, leveling kit, balljoints ect that i need to get done...so do i get the tranny serviced or do i somehow find away to get the cash to get a built one??? a few people just told me to get it serviced and take it easy on it..i have the comp chip ( lift pump not tapped) and not hooked up to the boost....so if i dont put more power to it and be carfule of what i tow should i be ok for a little while? what would you guys do? thanks for the help

REDNECK-WELDING

wow no one has anything to say

Topper

Hey welder,
Have it serviced. Then start saving for a new one. If it lasts a while your golden if not well you got some money saved.
Good luck,
Topper

REDNECK-WELDING

thanks..thats what i did..it drives great..shifts good...holds power...so i guess i will be nice to it and save up....

Sea:\>Drive

What is "bad" fluid (burnt? bad color? too much friction material in it?)? Who told you all these things (perhaps a small tranny shop looking to rebuild yours)? How can anyone tell the band is out so far as you have to tighten it, then loosen it to even adjust it correctly?

I only ask as I've helped/done a few of the band adjustments on these tranny's and was wondering how you would even be able to tell how far "out" it was prior to touching it?

REDNECK-WELDING

i brought the truck in...they took it for a drive...thought it shifted good ect...pulled the pan to service it and the fliud was burn bad,dark color and almost like sludge on the bottom of the pan...so they had the pan off when they said the front band was out....these guys are good and wernt trying to rip me off...they said they think the tourque converter was slipping...so thats what they told me..very little if any metal on the pan..some other little particals of regular wear...so i told them to do a flush, adjust the bands, new filter and go from there...i dont know as i havent done the bands before...this is just what they told me...i will just keep on checking the fluid and making sure its ok and play it by ear....also anyone have a build up sheet for a auto tranny...allt he good part to make a bullet proof one

thanks

paulb

Band material is metallic, so if there wasn't anything on the magnet, then it wasn't bands. IMO if the fluid is burnt the damage has already been done to the clutches. If there was a lot of non-magnetic material in the pan, then that is clutch material. Stock torque converters don't have a lot of friction material in them, so if there is a lot then it's not just from the converter.

Doing a trans service (like you did), may extend the life a little, but figure on getting it rebuilt. Do a search on here for tranny builders and use one of them.

Paul

RowJ

If it is slipping you should be able to tell. Usually you will get rpm increase with no/little corresponding increase in speed.
Less HP can reduce slipping...sometimes totally.... so if you feel it slip, unhook the Edge and start saving.

RJ

REDNECK-WELDING

i didnt feel it sliping .. there was very little metal on the magnet...and there was some other material...not a whole pile...but yes i do think i need to save up for a new tranny....i have been holding off on injectors till i get a new tranny so.....hopefully this one will hold off for awhile....what signs should i be looking out for?? there is no poping grinding ect as of now

bill50cal

[QUOTE=paulb;1371483]Band material is metallic, so if there wasn't anything on the magnet, then it wasn't bands. IMO if the fluid is burnt the damage has already been done to the clutches. If there was a lot of non-magnetic material in the pan, then that is clutch material. Stock torque converters don't have a lot of friction material in them, so if there is a lot then it's not just from the converter.

Where did you come up with the info that the band material is METALLIC!! all the front bands I have seen in stock units is an ORGANIC lining and aftermarket also has a kevler compond. rear is a semi metallic but they usualy dont wear and deposit friction material in the pan, they just break the end off.

You CAN burn the fluid from exessive heat and not burn clutches. its called a torque converter and if you spend to much time pulling hard out of lockup it can and will degrade the fluid.

bill
35 years in the tranny busness

bill50cal

It is simple to tell how far of adjustment a band is. I will use the front as an example. put box wrench over lock nut, put torx bit in adjuster and hold while you break lock nut loose, hold lock nut and turn in torx as you count turns. if it turns more the spec that is how far it was out. see how simple that was . looks like he might of found an honest shop


bill

REDNECK-WELDING

thanks for the info....well i was bombing around today and theres no slipping or anything like that...im hoping it was just really burnt fluid and it will hold up for awhile...thanks again for all the info guys

RowJ

Don't know if Bill will agree, but from my experience in the oil business I believe stock trannys benefit greatly from using synthetic ATF. Heat is the killer here and the synthetics have much better thermal stability if they get hot. They also tend to have higher quality additive packages to support the longer lived base oils.

You can get almost the same positive results with non synthetics by changing fluids & filters more often. By that I mean @ 20,000 miles. Many consider this overkill... but on a 47RH or 47RE, I consider in smart preventative maintainence.

RJ

bill50cal

yes you are correct on heat and thermal stability. moderen transmissions are very sensitive to oil qualty and additive packages to maintain shift quality. I do not use synthetics in ALL apps. but for sure in units that have known lube problems or work very hard. the other thing you have consider with heat is the rubber seals. most are made with buna nitrial and are not friendly with temps over 230-240 .
I would NOT consider it over kill to change fluid @20,000 if you do a lot of heavy stop and go city towing. it all depends on how bad the fluid degrades.

bill