tranny maintenance recommedations
#1
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tranny maintenance recommedations
I have 67000 miles on my o2. I have the 47rh auto I believe. I am installing a deep 4qt pan to hopefully keep cooler and lenghten life before rebuilt. Do I need a total tranny "flush" or just drain, clean filter and add needed fluid. The fluid looks clean, kinda light red. Also what is best fluid. Should I use synthetic or is it no worth the extra money. Thank you
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mopar syn atf-4 is some pretty good stuff... but very costly stuff aswell, Yes you dont need to flush the tranny out this is normally only done when there has been found shavings or garbage in the bottom of the pan. Adjust the 2nd gear band, change filter and fluid and if you want drop the valve body and seperate the sections and clean it with brake/carb fluid and then remove the gov sensor and clean the filter on the end of it so it doesnt give problems later on....should take you not much time at all. I went ahead and drilled a hole in my stock pan and welded in a nut so i can have a drain plug. There is really no reason to upgrade to a bigger pan unless you plan on stressing the tranny for long periods of time constantly shifting between gears, other then that its a waste of money
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A member of another popular cummins site did a temp study on the mag tech dd pan. Under load and on grade he found temps averaged 15-20 degrees cooler compared to stock pans. I pull a TT in colorado mountains in summer. We have 3-10 mile 6-8% grades in alot of areas. I want to go 150k plus before building. I understand every ten degrees after 210 starts dropping life of tranny down especially after 220 plus. I hope I am not wasting money .
#7
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SSweeney
Don't clean the filter...replace it!
My expirience is similar... temps at cruise do run lower with a dd pan. I don't consider them a "waste of money", considering the fact that tranny fluid can easily get over 200* in many driving conditions.
I like the 727 deep dish pans. Anything that helps cool the fluid has to be good and the two magnets catch everything that can be trapped. Drain what you can, since it has good color (and no burnt smell, right?). Your leaving 40-50% of the old fluid in the torque convertor, but do it again in 15-20,000 miles and you'll be in great shape!
That's the best part of the Mag Hy-Tecs, IMO, you can change the fluid easily and therefore, more often.
Many claim frequent fluid changes are a waste of money, but it's cheap insurance, IMO. Especially if towing with a stock tranny. Just one way, of several, to skin this cat!
carcaz - synthetics will mix with non synthetics just fine... that's exactly what a blended synthetic is.
RJ
Don't clean the filter...replace it!
My expirience is similar... temps at cruise do run lower with a dd pan. I don't consider them a "waste of money", considering the fact that tranny fluid can easily get over 200* in many driving conditions.
I like the 727 deep dish pans. Anything that helps cool the fluid has to be good and the two magnets catch everything that can be trapped. Drain what you can, since it has good color (and no burnt smell, right?). Your leaving 40-50% of the old fluid in the torque convertor, but do it again in 15-20,000 miles and you'll be in great shape!
That's the best part of the Mag Hy-Tecs, IMO, you can change the fluid easily and therefore, more often.
Many claim frequent fluid changes are a waste of money, but it's cheap insurance, IMO. Especially if towing with a stock tranny. Just one way, of several, to skin this cat!
carcaz - synthetics will mix with non synthetics just fine... that's exactly what a blended synthetic is.
RJ
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#8
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Why not save the money on the pan and buy another tranny cooler?
there is an article in the new DieselPower mag about one.
I think i'm gonna get one just like it.
there is an article in the new DieselPower mag about one.
I think i'm gonna get one just like it.
#11
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What Temps to expect?
A related question. I just installed my Tranny Temp Sensor in the out-line of my 47RE (see sig below). What Temp readings should I expect for the following conditions?
No load fairly level terrain, 60-70mph, 90degree ambient
No load mountains 6-7% grade, 90degree ambient
No load in heavy city traffic, 90degree ambient
10k RV load fairly level terrain, 60-70mph, 90degree ambient
10k RV load mountains 6-7% grade, 90degree ambient
10k RV load in heavy city traffic, 90degree ambient
AT What TEMP would you pull over and let it cool down (Idle in neutral?)
Thanks, Bill
No load fairly level terrain, 60-70mph, 90degree ambient
No load mountains 6-7% grade, 90degree ambient
No load in heavy city traffic, 90degree ambient
10k RV load fairly level terrain, 60-70mph, 90degree ambient
10k RV load mountains 6-7% grade, 90degree ambient
10k RV load in heavy city traffic, 90degree ambient
AT What TEMP would you pull over and let it cool down (Idle in neutral?)
Thanks, Bill
#12
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Bill - What yr is your 2500 CTD?
I would say, if a 24v CTD, your tranny should run 140-170* in clear ram air conditions! That's not towing, but warm weather. Ram air hitting the cooler in the grille makes all the difference! Just pull in close behind an 18 wheeler and see what happens.
Towing I can't give you exact advise... except to say expect 20-30* higher.
In town...stop & go...hot weather (or anywhere), I got nervous at over 200*, as a rule of thumb, when my tranny was stock. Yes, in neutral for better circulation.
RJ
I would say, if a 24v CTD, your tranny should run 140-170* in clear ram air conditions! That's not towing, but warm weather. Ram air hitting the cooler in the grille makes all the difference! Just pull in close behind an 18 wheeler and see what happens.
Towing I can't give you exact advise... except to say expect 20-30* higher.
In town...stop & go...hot weather (or anywhere), I got nervous at over 200*, as a rule of thumb, when my tranny was stock. Yes, in neutral for better circulation.
RJ
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