Toasted VP44?
#1
Toasted VP44?
Here's the deal: Travelling on the interstate the other day, on cruise turning 2000 RPM, take the cruise off, slow down for the off ramp and notice the engine is knocking real bad and running rough. Slow down and pull onto the shoulder, and notice a white plume of smoke coming from the exhaust.
All gauges reading OK. No idiot lights, oil pressure fine, coolant temp fine, fuel pressure good, running empty, EGT fine. Knocking like a son of a gun. So I shut her down, pop the hood and all fluid levels OK. Then she won't restart. I notice after several tries, the LP continues to cycle 10-15 seconds after I turn the key off.
Get it towed home, and I changed the fuel filter. A little dirty, but not too bad. Drained fuel looks fine, no evidence of water contamination. Again, try to start, and it just cranks and cranks with no fire. The LP still runs 10-15 seconds after the key is turned off.
It's got 146K miles on the clock, about 5K on the RV275 injectors. Replaced the LP about 2 years ago and installed oversized banjos at the time. Been monitoring EGT since I bought it with 57K on it, and have never been over 1,000F. I've tried the access codes via the odometer, but no go on this 98.5.
Other than getting any codes read, are there other diagnostic procedures I can perform? Or should I go ahead and order a new VP$$?
All gauges reading OK. No idiot lights, oil pressure fine, coolant temp fine, fuel pressure good, running empty, EGT fine. Knocking like a son of a gun. So I shut her down, pop the hood and all fluid levels OK. Then she won't restart. I notice after several tries, the LP continues to cycle 10-15 seconds after I turn the key off.
Get it towed home, and I changed the fuel filter. A little dirty, but not too bad. Drained fuel looks fine, no evidence of water contamination. Again, try to start, and it just cranks and cranks with no fire. The LP still runs 10-15 seconds after the key is turned off.
It's got 146K miles on the clock, about 5K on the RV275 injectors. Replaced the LP about 2 years ago and installed oversized banjos at the time. Been monitoring EGT since I bought it with 57K on it, and have never been over 1,000F. I've tried the access codes via the odometer, but no go on this 98.5.
Other than getting any codes read, are there other diagnostic procedures I can perform? Or should I go ahead and order a new VP$$?
#2
first look for codes, no codes and id be leaning towards a bad batch of fuel..if its not the vp a lot of times a dead ckp sensor will not allow the truck to start. if u get it running and its not the vp or ckp id look into the map sensor.
#3
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Joined: Jan 2005
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From: East Bound and Down Loaded Up and Truckin'
APPS Reset Procedure
Answer: This procedure has shown to help 24 valve ISB engines. It is basically teaching the fly by wire accelerator on these trucks to reread the position of the pedal and it's limits. Most complaints this will help with is poor acceleration, improper shifting, bucking in 5 and 6 speeds. Has been known to increase fuel mileage in some instances.
1. Set parking brake
2. Disconnect negative battery cables on both batteries
3. Turn ignition key to run(to drain any remaining capacitors)
4. Let truck sit for 30 minutes( this is the recommended minimum)
5. Return ignition to OFF position
6. Reconnect both batteries and secure, not a timed event
7. Turn key to run position(not start) and depress accelerator pedal slowly all the way to the floor
8. Allow pedal to return to top position slowly
9. Turn ignition switch OFF
10.Release parking brake
Same thing happened to me, tried this and boom truck works. it might take some cranking on the engine after you do that. but you'll hear it starting to fire. Let us know if it works.
Answer: This procedure has shown to help 24 valve ISB engines. It is basically teaching the fly by wire accelerator on these trucks to reread the position of the pedal and it's limits. Most complaints this will help with is poor acceleration, improper shifting, bucking in 5 and 6 speeds. Has been known to increase fuel mileage in some instances.
1. Set parking brake
2. Disconnect negative battery cables on both batteries
3. Turn ignition key to run(to drain any remaining capacitors)
4. Let truck sit for 30 minutes( this is the recommended minimum)
5. Return ignition to OFF position
6. Reconnect both batteries and secure, not a timed event
7. Turn key to run position(not start) and depress accelerator pedal slowly all the way to the floor
8. Allow pedal to return to top position slowly
9. Turn ignition switch OFF
10.Release parking brake
Same thing happened to me, tried this and boom truck works. it might take some cranking on the engine after you do that. but you'll hear it starting to fire. Let us know if it works.
#4
Thanks for the tips. Just completed the APPS reset procedure, and still no go. Batteries are now tired, so trickle charging.
Will look into getting codes read next. I'm guessing the batch of fuel isn't the problem, as this happened a couple of hundred miles after my last fill up, and tank level currently around 50%.
Does anyone know what the Killer Dowel Pin symptoms are?
Will look into getting codes read next. I'm guessing the batch of fuel isn't the problem, as this happened a couple of hundred miles after my last fill up, and tank level currently around 50%.
Does anyone know what the Killer Dowel Pin symptoms are?
#6
Fuel pressure was 12 psi while she was knocking, and will peg now to 14 psi while I'm attempting to start it.
And another question: Where does one obtain the VP44 pump tester p/n 3163834 per the tech facts section here? Thanks
And another question: Where does one obtain the VP44 pump tester p/n 3163834 per the tech facts section here? Thanks
#7
Might want to crack an injector line and see if you are getting any fuel up there.
Do you have an Auto Zone or similiar parts store near you? They'll read your codes and probably come up with P0216.
We all hope and wish for bad fuel or APPS issues.
Do you have an Auto Zone or similiar parts store near you? They'll read your codes and probably come up with P0216.
We all hope and wish for bad fuel or APPS issues.
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#8
Before you do anything else, you NEED to check for codes. 98.5's do not display codes in the odometer display - you will need a scanner or code reader. I would not bother doing anything else until you can confirm what codes are present.
#9
Update: Have been busy with work so haven't looked at the beast until today. Nearest DC dealer is 20 miles away, codes not read yet.
Well, I hopped in it, started cranking after the wait to start light, cranking, cranking, so I gave the accelerator a tap, and whoom.......she started. Runs rough, copious amounts of white exhaust, but no knocking. And again, all gauges read A-OK.
Will look at getting it towed to the DC dealer monday to have the codes read.
Well, I hopped in it, started cranking after the wait to start light, cranking, cranking, so I gave the accelerator a tap, and whoom.......she started. Runs rough, copious amounts of white exhaust, but no knocking. And again, all gauges read A-OK.
Will look at getting it towed to the DC dealer monday to have the codes read.
#12
Thought so. Well, at least you'll be good to go for another 2-120,000 miles now
I have heard that the new(er) rebuilds have as many improvements incoprorated to make them less, well,.. crappy.
I only have about 7K on my new one (got it at 68,000) so I'm hoping I'm at the beginning of a long, healthy life too.
I have heard that the new(er) rebuilds have as many improvements incoprorated to make them less, well,.. crappy.
I only have about 7K on my new one (got it at 68,000) so I'm hoping I'm at the beginning of a long, healthy life too.
#13
They must be better, I have about well not real sure but a whole bunch of miles on it(crossing fingers). I think 98.5's are really unique, it is computerizied and such but very basic, If that makes any sense.
#14
I have done 30ish VP44's and had SEVERAL differant symptoms of death. Its weird really....some start fine and loose power, some dont crank untill induced with either, some run and start fine untill you rap the throttle then it dies...but starts back up, some run like crap and white smoke! When you get simptoms like this, and its a dated pump (sometimes not!!) 99% of the time is the Pump i have seen. Its a weird bird this one. They wont always pop a code...but most of the time it will pop the P0216. On average, i see them drop around 115,000 to 150,000 with the orignal LP....even with a new one (Too little too late). 027 for SO, 028 for HO and 029 for RV. None are cross compatable. Cam sensor wont kill the motor...mine went out (just after i changed my VP44 wouldnt you know it!) and i just lots my timing advance....very dead on power. ya'll (98.5-00?) also have a Crank sensor behind the starter.....i want to say this wont kill the truck either...but im not sure on that one. Anyway, sorry it was your VP44.....but now you are officaly a Cummins owner! welcome to the club! haha......
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