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Synthetic Oil Question

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Old 07-12-2005, 04:31 PM
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Originally posted by CSAGrey1
How many miles you figure you need to have on your motor before you move to a synthetic??
I've seen 40,000 mentioned a few times. I'm at 42,000 so I'm going to make the switch. One guy switched at 10,000, which is a little too early for these, IMO. A gasser, yes.
Old 07-12-2005, 05:46 PM
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I switched at 18,000 miles to Amsoil. Castrol has a new oil out for diesels anyone heard anything on this product?
Old 07-19-2005, 02:26 PM
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I've been using Amsoil full synthetic diesel oil with a supplemental bypass filter for the last 5 yrs. I send in the analysis every six months and it's always come back clean, they say it's good to stay but I change it once a year anyway (gives me a chance to crawl over the thing poking and prodding)
What I noticed first thing when I changed it was the turbo seemed to spin faster first thing in the morning with less smoke and lag on the get go. Could have been all in my head but I'm sold on synthetics and been that way since Belray first starting making 2 cycle way back in the dark ages.
Old 07-20-2005, 12:10 PM
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I think you guys have been sucked in by the maketing types. Unless you run a race car or live the the artic, the Syn is a waste of good money. Regular rotella/delo will meet the requirement for the life of the engine. If your motor runs in the normal range, Syn is just not needed. save your money & spend it on Beer. It costs about $17 even for the 15w-40 Dino. I can't see spending $70 every 4k miles, plus $10 for the filter.
My $02.
Old 07-20-2005, 01:57 PM
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I just switched to Rotella T at my last oil change. I plan on running Rotella for a while.
Old 07-20-2005, 05:22 PM
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Synthetics have been proven superior to dino-based slipperjuice. There are alot of things that make it better, usefull life, viscosity range and heat dispersion.
I spent a bunch of hrs crunching numbers before I made the switch that was 20 yrs ago when you could get Castrol at kmart for 60 cents a quart and the figures still hold. If I changed out 3 and a half gallons 4 or five times a year it would cost me the same as the once a year (twice for filters) Synth.
In my old big block gasser Trans Am I also got an extra 300 rpm at idle when I changed it out. I'm no auto engineer but I know what I saw. Every set of wheels I own runs with synth.
Old 07-21-2005, 09:21 AM
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If you have any warranty, you violated it. DC/Cummins recommed changing the oil for a reason. Amsoil & others would have you never change it, just do filters. Others sell swamp land too.
Let's say your motor goes south. Think Cummins or Dodge will say, "Oh, you used Syn for 20k, no change? Sure, we will be glad to give you a new motor." No way. Didn't cahnge the oil, like in the book? Too bad, so sad.
Syn may be good, but not enought not to follow recomended maitenance schedules. It does do all the things you say, but, again, under normal conditions, it is unnecesary.
It would be interesting to hear how many big rig drivers/companies buy into this hype. I am willing to guess it it 10 to 1 Dino lube to Syn. Why? Economics, it works. There is a reason Rotella is the #1 lube of diesel owners.
Certainly open to other viewpoints or FACTS to the contrary.
Old 07-21-2005, 10:44 PM
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My owners manual recomends synthetic and the oil changes are set at 7800 miles not 3-4k miles. So with this in mind I change mine every 7-9K miles and do use synthetics. My truck does not leak any oil and has never failed to start(except when I left the lights on at work and ran the battery down).

When I first got it the place I bought it had put dino oil in it. It rattled like a muracca. 2 weeks later I changed it to Castrol synthetic and it quieted the rattle way down. I also use 1 quart of marvel mystery oil in it at each oil change. I dont know if the MMO had anything to do with it but I figure it cant hurt. I have used it in engines since the late 70's and have only lost 1 engine. it was due to a bad line bore not oil.

It may cost more to run synthetic, but which is cheaper.
1. New engine at between 6-12K
2. $70 for an oil change vise $50

Maybe im not like most people. I dont know but its easier for me to shell out an extra $20 at a time for some extra insurance instead of the 6-12k at one time.

Maybe Im wrong.
Old 07-22-2005, 08:18 AM
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You have an 01, I have an 02. If yo do ANYTHING at all with your truck, it calls for 3800 miles service. I pay about 1.50/qt, x 11= 16.50 for oil, $10 filter, 26.50.
Syn 4.0/qtx 11=$44 + 10= 54.
At the end of the day you are $27.50 poorer. Tests have shown that unless you run extremely hot, or extremely cold, the syn buys very little. Hype, hype, hype. Is it beter? Yes. $30 per change better? I think not.
Again, no clinical proof or factory recomendation, Just feel good stuff. Show me the facts.
Old 08-12-2005, 11:45 AM
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Originally posted by supr
If you have any warranty, you violated it. DC/Cummins recommed changing the oil for a reason. Amsoil & others would have you never change it, just do filters. Others sell swamp land too.
Let's say your motor goes south. Think Cummins or Dodge will say, "Oh, you used Syn for 20k, no change? Sure, we will be glad to give you a new motor." No way. Didn't cahnge the oil, like in the book? Too bad, so sad.
Syn may be good, but not enought not to follow recomended maitenance schedules. It does do all the things you say, but, again, under normal conditions, it is unnecesary.
It would be interesting to hear how many big rig drivers/companies buy into this hype. I am willing to guess it it 10 to 1 Dino lube to Syn. Why? Economics, it works. There is a reason Rotella is the #1 lube of diesel owners.
Certainly open to other viewpoints or FACTS to the contrary.

I went in and talked with the head of my dealership and he said that he deals with with this question alot. From the Dealer that I work with in Anchorage as long as the oil analyisis comes back good that DC would honor the warrenty. So as long as I can document that I'm maintaining the truck they will fix it. The only warnning given was to make sure the bypass was installed correctly ie. if there is a pinched oil line you are SOL.
Old 08-12-2005, 12:30 PM
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Originally posted by supr
If you have any warranty, you violated it. DC/Cummins recommed changing the oil for a reason. Let's say your motor goes south. Think Cummins or Dodge will say, "Oh, you used Syn for 20k, no change? Sure, we will be glad to give you a new motor." No way.
Not quit true.
To void your warranty, Dodge/Cummins must first prove the oil you used caused the problem. Same goes for filters.
They may try to void it but legally it's another matter...if your aware of your rights.

If a dealers representative tells you using brand X....or going past RECOMMENDED change intervals will void your warranty, ask for it in writting....and watch how fast they back peddle!

I have tested Amsoil's Marine 15-40...10,000 miles on the same Fleetguard Stratopore filter. Oil analysis showed it had lots of miles left in it....at least another 5-10,000....for my type of use. If you crunch the numbers at 10,000 -15,000 miles, it is cost effective.

I think Synthetics make sense if..1-you put on a lot of miles...2-Do Oil Analysis to max your change interval...3- Work your CTD hard.

RJ
Old 08-12-2005, 12:35 PM
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Originally posted by CSAGrey1
How many miles you figure you need to have on your motor before you move to a synthetic??
Most recommend waiting 20,000 miles +/-. What you are waiting for is the rings to seat. I know of no other reason. This will happen with synthetics...but it will take longer.

Real world answer, IMO, switch when you want to.

RJ
Old 08-12-2005, 12:46 PM
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Originally posted by Rattletrap1
My "camp" says to choose one oil and stick with it. The additive packages are designed to counteract the particular acids, etc. that are produced when running that oil. Changing brands can lead to not having the proper package for the residual conataminates in your motor.
Sorry, But IMO, this makes no sense. Todays oils with identical ratings...have identical additive packages. The purpose of the dispersent additive in oil is to hold contaminants in suspension so they either get trapped by the filter...or drain out when the oil is changed! Change the oil before it uses up all of its additives and there will be no "residual contaminants"

Like Rusty said...If it meets CI-4+...it's ok to switch brands...or even mix brands. You can also mix synthetics & dyno oils...after all, that's what a "Blended Synthetic" is. You can also mix weights (viscosities) of oils.....but that's another story.

RJ
Old 08-12-2005, 06:51 PM
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The dealership is not a court room, so often times they can give a care less for our rights as consumers.

I changed to Rotella synthetic at 12k miles. Less engine noise.
Old 08-12-2005, 08:42 PM
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Originally posted by PourinDiesel
The dealership is not a court room, so often times they can give a care less for our rights as consumers.
and if it makes it to the courtroom they have more better paid lawyers than you.

I don't care what kind of oil you use, syn or dino, they are all subject to contamination from byproducts of combustion which limit their life. The only reason people can go with long change intervals with syn is if they use a bypass filter and replenish additives with makeup oil when changing filters.
I would imagine the same could be done with dino oil.


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