Swapped pumps now no Peddle
#1
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Swapped pumps now no Peddle
A friend of mine called me last night and said he swapped vp44 and LP now he has no peddle. Like the APPS is not working. Is there any wires or plugs comming off of the sensor that he could have messed up. I asked him if there were and he said no. So my other question is how does the apps work if there is no wires to or from it. Corey
#2
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Well, there certainly is an APPS connector.....I guess he should look a bit harder. That said, I would suggest pulling the codes to see what you get - I'm sure it will provide some enlightenment.
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He got this code p2122 which is pedal position sensor 1 low. So should he just check all the connections seeing how it worked before he changed the pumps.
#4
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I assume you mean P0122 - Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor Signal Voltage Too Low.
If this is the case, the APPS is most likely connected properly but out of whack. It is either worn out or not adjusted properly. You can try the APPS reset but if that doesn't work, it will most likely have to be replaced. The APPS adjustment procedure listed here will not allow for actual adjustment of the APPS itself.
This is the procedure for APPS adjustment:
RESETTING THE APPS SENSOR
This is the procedure DTT recommends to reset the APPS:
With the key on, engine off, you need to probe the APPS wire to see where your voltage is currently set at.
The best location to probe the wire is on the PCM (Power Control Module), which is located off the passenger side of the firewall. There are three plugs going into the PCM. You’ll need to remove the air filter housing to get easy access to it
· You want the C1 connector; this is the connector closest to the engine
· You want the orange wire with the dark blue tracer, which is pin #23
· Voltage should read somewhere around 0.5 volts
· At this point the voltage reading doesn’t matter, it just has to be accurately written down for later reference
TURN THE IGNITION OFF ON THE TRUCK
· The APPS sensor is located slightly above and a little to the left of the injection pump.
· Remove the black plastic cover that is located by your injection pump. (Be very careful unscrewing the plastic screws, they strip very easily. Do not apply any downward pressure to the screws)
· Undo the six 10mm bolts that hold the APPS bracket in place. (Do not remove the cables) You will notice the APPS is on the back of the bracket that you just removed. It is held in place by two 20 bit torques screws. These screws have been installed using Locktite, so be sure to use a good driver bit and gently tap them with a hammer before attempting to loosen them. Be very careful, these screws strip very easily and you only get one shot at them!
· On the APPS you will find a white tag that gives you the information on what the APPS voltage should be.
· After loosening the screws, you can rotate the APPS clockwise (increase voltage) or counter-clockwise (decrease voltage) to get the adjustment you need.
· The reading you took at the PCM (pin #23) should match the voltage on the tag, if not, adjust accordingly.
I found that hooking up your multi-meter at the PCM and adjusting the APPS, while monitoring the voltage, worked the easiest. You’ll need to have the key on, engine off, for this. Once you set the voltage to the correct setting, turn the key off to reassemble the APPS bracket and related parts.
Good luck!
If this is the case, the APPS is most likely connected properly but out of whack. It is either worn out or not adjusted properly. You can try the APPS reset but if that doesn't work, it will most likely have to be replaced. The APPS adjustment procedure listed here will not allow for actual adjustment of the APPS itself.
This is the procedure for APPS adjustment:
RESETTING THE APPS SENSOR
This is the procedure DTT recommends to reset the APPS:
With the key on, engine off, you need to probe the APPS wire to see where your voltage is currently set at.
The best location to probe the wire is on the PCM (Power Control Module), which is located off the passenger side of the firewall. There are three plugs going into the PCM. You’ll need to remove the air filter housing to get easy access to it
· You want the C1 connector; this is the connector closest to the engine
· You want the orange wire with the dark blue tracer, which is pin #23
· Voltage should read somewhere around 0.5 volts
· At this point the voltage reading doesn’t matter, it just has to be accurately written down for later reference
TURN THE IGNITION OFF ON THE TRUCK
· The APPS sensor is located slightly above and a little to the left of the injection pump.
· Remove the black plastic cover that is located by your injection pump. (Be very careful unscrewing the plastic screws, they strip very easily. Do not apply any downward pressure to the screws)
· Undo the six 10mm bolts that hold the APPS bracket in place. (Do not remove the cables) You will notice the APPS is on the back of the bracket that you just removed. It is held in place by two 20 bit torques screws. These screws have been installed using Locktite, so be sure to use a good driver bit and gently tap them with a hammer before attempting to loosen them. Be very careful, these screws strip very easily and you only get one shot at them!
· On the APPS you will find a white tag that gives you the information on what the APPS voltage should be.
· After loosening the screws, you can rotate the APPS clockwise (increase voltage) or counter-clockwise (decrease voltage) to get the adjustment you need.
· The reading you took at the PCM (pin #23) should match the voltage on the tag, if not, adjust accordingly.
I found that hooking up your multi-meter at the PCM and adjusting the APPS, while monitoring the voltage, worked the easiest. You’ll need to have the key on, engine off, for this. Once you set the voltage to the correct setting, turn the key off to reassemble the APPS bracket and related parts.
Good luck!
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Mine did the same thing...I changed lift pump amd VP44 and ran it to get air out...let it idle quite a while, then when I got in and pressed on the gas, I got no peddle at all. Checked the codes with the key trick and got p0122,1693 and 0230. The batts were disconnected for the whole time during r&r so I would assume that any old codes would be gone.
Any light on the subject would be much appreciated.
Any light on the subject would be much appreciated.
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