Jason Starnes

any one have any info on swaping the "Y" steering off of a 02 4wd in favor of the draglink tie rod combo off of a ~98 4wd?

BigBlue

What are you talking about man? Is there a difference between the two?

Jason Starnes

on my 02 the drag link goes from the pitman arm to the right side steering knuckle then from this drag link there is a tie rod that goes to the left side steering knuckle


on a 98 you have a tie rod that goes between both steering knuckled and the drag link connects the pitman arm to the tie rod

0n my 02 if I hit a bump with the left side front tire the tire wobbles left and right while the right stays still

when I hit a bump with the right tire there is no wobble what so ever


on one of the 98 trucks I drive it dosent matter what kind of bumps you hit the tires stay pointed in the direction you have the wheel set to




on the 02 they call it "Y" steering because when you look at the tierod/draglink it makes the shape of a Y (when folded out) and on a 98 I think they call it "T" steering because when folded out it looks like a T

CTD NUT

Dodge has mucked around with both styles of steering linkage over the years. The 2nd gens started out with the Y style in 94 and went to the tie rod/drag link combo in 98 (I think). A buddy of mine swapped out the Y style for the T/D style on his 97 and was pleased with the handling change. As an owner of a 94 and a 98, I can confirm that IMO, the T/D style linkage is the way to go for better handling.

Jason Starnes

so is it just a bolt on swap?

slowflyer2112

Jason


Just did it on my 2000 with moog parts I bought from a wholesale place.
It will bolt on what you need to do is look up the 98-99 heavy duty linkage.
You will need the outer tie rod, inner tie rod, with adjuster, and the drag link ( long arm only (your tie rod at pitman arm and adjuster will work even though its a different part no.) You will also need to order a new steering dampner and bracket.
Check your parts the moog book has a missprint and the adjuster has the wrong part number listed, I had to call for the correct number, they know.

The truck steers completly different. You will notice a little more center play in the wheel. If your truck is lifted you should use a drop pitman to keep the drag link as flat as possible and you can twist the tie rod ends opposite so that the arm does not rotate.

The benifits are the the toe does not change with load or ride height changes and less chance of death wobble.

The total cost was about $ 280.00


Good luck

Mark

One of these days I'll explain to everyone why death wobble happens on these trucks ( its pretty simple)

Jason Starnes

Thanks for the info

I know the ride changes thats why I want to do the swap

I put the D25's and bilistens(sp) on and the truck was worse after the new shocks??? (I kept the stock shocks with the D25's for about a week)



Thanks again

Jason

Matt400

Thats a big plus for sure. Ford used the "Y" type linkage on some of their F-150's (pre 79) that had solid front axles and we were always tossing that set up out in favor of the straight rod between the axles.

I think they may be using the "Y" style to help control bump steer but I don't care for it. I would like to change my 03 linkage.

fireram

That sounds like a great price on the MOOG parts, I get mine from a parts jobber, which is always much cheaper than the retailers, and at least 2/3 cheaper than the Dealer.

I am in the middle of doing my front end, I have to do the Tie rods, and Track bar, before I put on my new 285 Revo's.

They sent me the wrong parts on friday, they sent the drag link instead of the right tie rod. It was only $60 so I put it on anyway, but will have to wait till tuesday to order the right tie rod.

My bill so far is $400 Cdn.

left tie rod (short one)
drag link
Track bar

and the right tie rod (long one) will be $200 alone.

Who did slowflyer2112 get his parts from?

slowflyer2112

I got my parts from a supplier here in San Diego called Wabco.
By the way I learned that the Moog parts are Factory on these parts ( same manufacturer, just reboxed) and they are alot heavier.

You need to check your jobber pricing, there are two prices in the book.

I'll be welding my new track bar bracket on this week with my knew bullit proof track bar.

You should check this out http://thurenfabrication.com, I found out about this after I bought the bullit proof bar and would have gone this way instead.

Good luck,

Mark

slowflyer2112

sorry about link try this.

http://thurenfabrication.com

fireram

Thanks for the info, After looking at the Thuren, I realize I should have gone with my first instincts and just made my own bracket, welded it to the truck and found a supplier to sell me some poly bushings. And use a straight piece of rod..

I think the bar may just as well be straight, It is only One bolt to disconnect the bar if you need to get into the diff.

And yes, I will be calling my jobber on his prices.

Thanks again