Stripped out oil pan drain plug bung hole
01-30-2006, 03:57 PM
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Stripped out oil pan drain plug bung hole
Last time I changed my oil, I managed to overtighten the drain plug and strip the threads out on the drain plug bung hole. 
Anyone have an "easy" fix for this. I noticed the other day, that there is a little seepage around the drain plug, so the next time I change the oil, I guess I'm going to have to drop the pan and weld a new bung to the pan if I don't come up with an easier fix.
Anyone have an "easy" fix for this. I noticed the other day, that there is a little seepage around the drain plug, so the next time I change the oil, I guess I'm going to have to drop the pan and weld a new bung to the pan if I don't come up with an easier fix.
01-30-2006, 06:53 PM
#3
You can put a little gray RTV around the base of the drain plug. I have a customer that did this "himself" the first year he owned his 96. He has 220k on it and it's still ok, just has to put a little RTV on the plug base when doing oil changes.
01-30-2006, 08:20 PM
#4
Registered User
My recommendation is to purchase an oil drain valve from GenosGarage.com then when you seal it in there, on the next oil change, you can go as far as epoxy and not worry because you will never have to remove it again.
Chris
Chris
01-30-2006, 10:18 PM
#5
Registered User
Thread Starter
I was reading in the FSM about oil pan removal.... "Remove transmission and transfer case". 
Is it really necessary to remove the tranny and t-case just take the oil pan off? That seems a little nuts to me.
Is it really necessary to remove the tranny and t-case just take the oil pan off? That seems a little nuts to me.
01-30-2006, 10:26 PM
#7
Registered User
Thread Starter
Doesn't say anything about raising the engine. Says to lower the pan a little and unbolt the oil suction tube. Then remove the pan and the tube.
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01-30-2006, 10:36 PM
#9
Registered User
I've changed several pans on 1st and 2nd gen trucks without removing the transmission, but the engine does need to be raised several inches. Check out the price of a new pan from Cummins. If you're going to the trouble of removing the pan, you might just want to replace it with a new one. I was surprised how cheap they are.
01-30-2006, 10:46 PM
#11
Registered User
I have to agree on the Fumoto drain valve that was mentioned earlier. He got his from Geno's, but the are several vendors that offer them. I would never go back after getting mine. I am ordering more for every vehicle in the fleet.
01-30-2006, 10:46 PM
#12
Registered User
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by mini14
u can teflon tape it...
I don't want any little pieces of teflon tape that may break off floating around in my oil galleries.
01-30-2006, 10:57 PM
#14
Registered User
Thread Starter
From the FSM:
Originally Posted by Factory Service Manual
OIL PAN
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect the battery negative cables.
(2) Raise vehicle on hoist.
(3) Remove transmission and transfer case (if
equipped).
(4) Remove flywheel.
(5) Disconnect starter cables from starter motor.
(6) Remove starter motor (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/
STARTING/STARTER MOTOR - REMOVAL)
and transmission adapter plate assembly.
WARNING: HOT OIL CAN CAUSE PERSONAL
INJURY.
(7) Drain the engine oil (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LUBRICATION/
OIL - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(8) Install the oil pan drain plug with a new sealing
washer and tighten to 60 N·m (44 ft. lbs.) torque.
(9) Remove oil pan bolts, break the pan to block
seal, and lower pan slightly and remove oil suction
tube fasteners.
(10) Remove oil pan and suction tube (Fig. 151).
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect the battery negative cables.
(2) Raise vehicle on hoist.
(3) Remove transmission and transfer case (if
equipped).
(4) Remove flywheel.
(5) Disconnect starter cables from starter motor.
(6) Remove starter motor (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/
STARTING/STARTER MOTOR - REMOVAL)
and transmission adapter plate assembly.
WARNING: HOT OIL CAN CAUSE PERSONAL
INJURY.
(7) Drain the engine oil (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LUBRICATION/
OIL - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(8) Install the oil pan drain plug with a new sealing
washer and tighten to 60 N·m (44 ft. lbs.) torque.
(9) Remove oil pan bolts, break the pan to block
seal, and lower pan slightly and remove oil suction
tube fasteners.
(10) Remove oil pan and suction tube (Fig. 151).
01-30-2006, 11:00 PM
#15
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Location: Mission Viejo, CA
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I, too, had a leaking drain plug after overtightening. I cracked the original, replaced it with a new plug and it still leaked. I bought the Fumoto and haven't looked back ... no leaks whatsoever. I bought mine directly from Fumoto ... best price I found.