jcamron

Tranny started to shift into and out of overdrive at 45 to 50 mph. Also hard to keep in third when not in overdrive at 35 mph. Now is hard to get into overdrive and keep it there. Had the electronic connections cleaned and battery terminals cleaned and it seemed to fix the problem. But its back again. Any ideas as to what the proper fix is for this? Maybe another connection I haven't found? I'm on the road right now and don't have access to a code reader. The alternator is only about three years old so I don't think this is the problem.

johnh

Tps..........................

tonycamacho

Are you sure it is the overdrive shifting or is it the torque converter locking and unlocking which was a common problem on many of the 98.5-99. I had the torque converter locking and unlocking problems at 45-50 MPH. Caused by RF interference created at the alternator which affected the APPS and PCM. Dealer fix was to replace the alternator which worked until the alternator began to show wear. Other temporary fixs included disconnection of the battery waiting 30 minutes and reconnecting. This normally worked for a day or so. There was also an stereo isolation filter sold online which you could install by cutting and splicing wires to the PCM. I fixed mine by clipping a simple carbon ferrite RF filter on the APPS wire harness. It does the same thing as the stereo filter without cutting any wires. This filter opens up and you mearly clip it over the harness. Reset your PCM by disconnecting the battery for 30 minutes, reconnect and your good to go. I haven't had the problem since. Send me a private email with a return email address and I'll send you a picture of the filter and install.

Tony

dozer12216

There is no on fix cures all for this issue. Do a search, there are plenty posts on this subject.
Some clean connector , slip rings and brushes on alternaotor.
Some add a old condenser to pos Alt terminal and ground housing of condenser.
Some shield the wiring going to alternator with aluminum foil or wrap with very fine wire and ground.
Some find bad cables between batteries.
Some run ground wire from pass side battery to alternator housing.
Some fix a erratic brake switch.
Some replace the RPM sensor on left side OD housing.
Some replace the OD solenoid in VB.
Some put cheap and or expensive fixes from the aftermarket tranny shops. Some work sometimes, Some don't and then some do help according to users posts. There are a least 4 versions of these upgrade kits.
Some just give up and live with it, from what I read>?????????
Some read the previous post since there are plenty.
Good luck.

olddodgetrucks

do the ats wireing upgrade,fixed many with a simple wire change

VADSLRAM

TC lockup is the bane of our existence!
I finally got mine worked out by taking every ground in the engine compartment, removing it, wire brush it, put conductive antisieze on it and reinstall.

But that worked for me, your results may vary

Shovelhead

My last "fix" was to run a ground wire from the Right-Side PCM screw (with the ground ring terminal) straight to the Negative battery cable.
I cleaned the two ends of the existing ground also.

tonycamacho

As I said in my last post the TC locking and unlocking problem is related to RF which screws up the PCM. I agree with Dozer12216 that there are many fixes indicated on varies threads and they all do something which helps to bleed off the RF interference which affects the PCM. When I started having this problem my dodge dealer service guy in Phoenix replaced the alternator indicating that diode breakdown in the alternator was the cause of the RF which affected the APPS and PCM. 10K miles later it started again in Mexico. I now had to find a fix and thats when I discovered the filters. I have over
40K to the truck since installing the RF filter with no further problems. "That's my story and I'll stick to it".

clowndodge01

RF filter ? what is it, where do you get one, and how much do they cost??

dozer12216

you can get them at Radio Shack or most electrical supply stores. They come as chokes, filters, condensers, & capicators. My suggestion: Inspect the alt brushes for arcing and slip rings for grease or out of round. Find a radio supression condenser from the positive side of a old round Chrysler coil. Most any ignition condenser will work if has a wire lead. Attach lead to the positive post on alternator. Mount condenser to frame of alternator. Run a ground wire from the alternator to the negative cable on pass side battery. Wrap the two control wires to alternator with a small wire for perhaps 10 inches and ground this shielding wire. Please post results and PM me if you would.

tonycamacho

clowndodge:

Go to this web page it explains the problem and the filter. The ferrite filter I used does the same except you don't have to cut wires.

//www.kentsoil.com/dodgebug1.htmo1

clowndodge01

hmmm I may try this, I did do all the ground wires under the hood by grinding all the paint to the metal cleaned the connections and reattached all grounds and I've been running great ever since (knock on wood)