bill moore

I think that I am going to clean my air filter even though it does not look bad. I have about 35 000 kms (highway) since it was last cleaned. Once I get it running good I am going to order a intake for it.

cLAYH

Do an APPS reset, on these models there is no direct linkage to the motor for throttle control, there is a potentiometer that turns your foot movement into an electrical signal that the VP then uses to decide howw much fuel to dump in.

If the APPS is correctly adjusted when you floor it it reads 100%, if its out of adjustment when you floor it it may only read 75%. Noramlly when a new pump is installed or the APPS has been replace you need to do the reset to program the APPS to read 100% when its floored.

There are two APPS procedures, do a search, one simply is to reset it so that it reads 100% when floored this is basically just disconnecting the batteries for aprox 20min to "blank" out the old reading. Then after you reconnect the bats the first time you hit the pedal press it ALL the way to the floor. Do a search as I may have left out some steps. This should be done any time the batts are disconnected for a long time.

The 2nd procedure is to recalibrate the APPS for your particular truck, it involves loosening the bolts on the APPS and turning it while monitioring the readings on a digital meter.

Both of these should have been done are you replace the VP or disturb the APPS.

Copenhagenjunkie

Hey Bill,
IMO........
do your truck a favor and chuck the k/n in the trash, then pull the intake tube off the turbo and clean the fins with a cloth. I ran a k/n for 300 some odd thousand miles and was always cleaning the turbo fins. I don't know if it was all the miles or the k/n but I ended up with a cracked fin a yr ago.

bill moore

Thanks for the response, I did not think that replacing the vp would have any affect on the apps since I did not loosen the srcews that hold it on, but will try it tomorrow when it is not -35 celcius. I did recalibrate the apps about 8 months ago and got it close to whatever the nominal voltage was but had no more adjustment to get it axact. I will post my findings in a couple days. I know that I saw a apps sensor on this site I believe for about $350 if anyone knows where please pm me I might need it, thanks in advance.

bill moore

Ya I have not read very much good stuff on these filters. I have had the intake tube off a bunch of times now and have never noticed dirt on the fins but will check it out. If a fin is cracked is it easy to see. Will the turbo whistle with a cracked fin? I guess now is as good a time as any to order a intake I am thinking afe stage 2. The k\n came on the truck.

Copenhagenjunkie

My fin crack was not very noticable, had to look very closely. I am just glad I caught it. Oh yea, it would still whistle. It sounds from your 1st post like you have no boost, Is there more smoke than usual?
BTW, my check engine light has been burnt out for 3 yrs now and I have had the companion code 1693 since I got my truck in 99.

Hope you get yours running better.

bill moore

I don't think there is very much smoke if any at all once it is warm. I don't want to put a boost gauge on when I can get it on my edge monitor in a few days. My check engine light never came on I just got the code through my obd2 scanner.

bill moore

Well finally got my edge installed. My fuel pressure is at 10 psi at idle and goes down to 5 psi at wot with the edge at 0 power level. Boost seams ok to wot 22 psi cruising around 6 psi. My egt's only go to 800 which I thought is very low could this be because it is not getting enough fuel?It still has problems keeping speed up hills. If there is any other info I can get off it to help solve this please ask I am still figuring out how all the features are used. I don't want to try any of the power levels till I get it working good stock. Thanks in advance

Rauschbo

- the FP is low, I think the rule of thumb is 5-7 psi @ WOT MIN to keep the VP "sorta healthy"; I think most LP's are giving a good 14-16 psi at idle -

You might do the APPS reset, then clean the MAP and IAT sensors. Is your engine revving real bad at speed (wondering if your tranny isn't hooking up, assuming it's an auto). A "Big Line" kit might give you better fuel flow, but with those numbers, you may be looking at a new LP - aftermarket, perhaps?

bill moore

I have done the apps reset a bunch of times and re calibrated it. I don't think that this is the problem though because the rpm go up and I can hear it work but just dosent create any power.
Regarding the fuel pressure, I thought that unless it was really low it would not affect power but wear out the vp44. I might also add that when I put a new vp44 in, it was because of the circuit board. The one that was broke was the original. Since the original lasted over 200 000 kms I don't think this is an issue until I start using the different power levels on the edge but correct me if I am wrong.
I cleaned the iat and map sensor about 20 000 kms ago and this made no difference. The truck accelerates in relation to the rpms of the motor, nothing seams to slip. If I don't get any more ideas I might start replacing some of the sensors and look at a new lift pump. We are very slow at work right now so I want to watch where I spend the money on it.
Another thing I should add is that I took it to another dealer to look for codes but he swears up and down that there are none in it. I just cannot figure out why I get the 1693 code only when it is running with my obd2 scanner.

Rauschbo

- sounds like you've been through about everything at LEAST one time.....

Despite the low FP, you should have enough to get up and get moving in a reasonable manner.

Does the truck make ANY power, e.g. does it accelerate up to it's max speed (60-ish?) quickly, or is it slow through the entire range?

One other thought - with no power and low EGT's, I wonder if your injectors are all "crud-ed" up and not putting out the required fuel? Do you run Stanadyne or Powerservice (or any other fuel additive)? Do you have any smoke, white of black?

Was the loss of power preceded by any work on the truck, or switching fuel suppliers, or was it gradual? How did it perform, comparatively, pre- and post- VP44 swap? I have heard of people getting VP's that didn't last very long at all...

I have also read that some believe that the fuel return banjo can be plugged and will put a put crimp into power and performance....not sure that is true, but - I replaced mine after I read that this could actually strand you in the boonies.

I hope we can get some of the real Guru's to post here, I'm (obviously!) running out of ideas -

Perhaps the moderator can put this in the Help section, you're not broke down. but you're not actually running, either!

79warlock

Did the dealer actually check for DTC's in the JTEC, or did they just look in the Cummins ECM and tell you that there is no problem. When they hook up the DRBIII and select "Engine" under diagnostics, they get two choices; "Cummins engine controller" or "JTEC". Most aftermarket code readers will only look in the Cummins ECM which is why you are having trouble finding the cause of the 1693.

bill moore

The truck is quite slow through the entire range. I used two litres of stanadyne (not at once) and I think that it did make a difference just not much. I plan on getting more once I find a local supplier. There is no black or white smoke. I have been wondering if it could be the injectors also. The only reason I have been checking everything else is that it is such a rare problem in these trucks. I am going to start another thread on the subject of checking them without removing them. The power loss started after I bought the truck. I am wondering if my original problem started with the vp44 going and then another problem developing, it did run better after the new vp, and has not gotten any worse since and no codes = vp ok I dont know how the fuel return banjo could get plugged ? Which line is it that you replaced where does it come from a go to. thanks

bill moore

When you talk about the jtec is that the same as the pcm. He dsaid that his scanner checks the pcm and ecm. The mechanic really tried to help me out if there was a way to get a code I am confident he would of found it. Apparently the ecm has been reflashed so it has the current upgrades in it (done previously) They also did not charge me for the hour and a bit since they could not fix it

79warlock

Yes that is the PCM. IF you aren't finding any codes in there, then the 1693 shouldn't pop up. The codes don't erase themselves when the problem is gone, it takes many key cycles for that to happen.