Slow Start.... Still
#1
Slow Start.... Still
Ok, new injection pump, had starter rebuilt, new batteries and the truck still starts slow when its cold (not warmed up). If I let it sit overnight the next morning when I go to start it, it fires on the second crank like always its just is sluggish getting there. It doesn't start strong like a normal cummins does and doest crank very fast.
Now, if I have the truck warm and come back and start it up within 1-2 hours it sounds fine.
Any other ideas? Maybe the grounding strap is loose but all other electricals seem fine.......
Now, if I have the truck warm and come back and start it up within 1-2 hours it sounds fine.
Any other ideas? Maybe the grounding strap is loose but all other electricals seem fine.......
#2
you may have air in the system, or fuel pressure may not be holding I had this a few years back, as a seal was crimped frm loosening an injector line when I ran out of fuel, just a thought
#4
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From: North Carolina or Kentucky. Take your pick
O'K, it's slow cranking especially when cold! right. There is a possibility one or more cables is internally bad.
The test is called voltage drop method.
1. Disable the IP by releasing the connector so can crank engine and not start.
2. you need a good voltmeter or dvom and set on low voltage of say two volts.
3. place + lead on positive post and negative on positive cable.
4. Crank engine and observe the voltage drop across the terminal.
5. Move leads by placing positive on positive cable and negative on lead at starter. Crank engine and observe voltage drop. Continue through each connection and cable througout heavy cables.
The results must be less than .2 volts on positive side of starter and .1 volts or less on negative side of starter.
Example. Say you observed .4 volt drop from starter housing to negatrive lead at engine. This is .3 volts above spec and indicates the starter or cable attachment has great resistance. Get the ideal. This is a standard test procedure described in most electrical test procedures.
The test is called voltage drop method.
1. Disable the IP by releasing the connector so can crank engine and not start.
2. you need a good voltmeter or dvom and set on low voltage of say two volts.
3. place + lead on positive post and negative on positive cable.
4. Crank engine and observe the voltage drop across the terminal.
5. Move leads by placing positive on positive cable and negative on lead at starter. Crank engine and observe voltage drop. Continue through each connection and cable througout heavy cables.
The results must be less than .2 volts on positive side of starter and .1 volts or less on negative side of starter.
Example. Say you observed .4 volt drop from starter housing to negatrive lead at engine. This is .3 volts above spec and indicates the starter or cable attachment has great resistance. Get the ideal. This is a standard test procedure described in most electrical test procedures.
Last edited by dozer12216; 08-11-2009 at 11:13 PM. Reason: correction
#5
Just FYI for anyone that was following it was the cables, they we're corroded into the jacket. I replaced all four cables with welding cable and new terminals and all is well now. Even in the nasty single digits this week.
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