nelly

I just bought a 1999 2500 4x4 low 170,000kms in great shape truck with a cracked block for cheap. The previous owner put Bars leak or something similar & as long as you leave the cooling system unpressurized (the rad cap on loose) it doesnt seem to leak at all. The heater & A/C seem to work fine.

Im wondering why you couldnt just run the truck with a unpressurized cooling system indefinately? What adverse affects would develop?

When I get the time im thinking of trying J&B weld on the crack. If that doesnt work Im thinking of drilling each end of the crack then drilling & tapping a long bar (with J&B weld) the length of the engine. Anyone try this?

Is there any chance of Cummins helping me with this 10+ yr old truck?

thanks

nickg

saw posts about drilling the block and tapping the holes then forming a plate over the crack, with sealant (rtv) between the plate and the block, many threads on this, some have welded the crack, some have lockstiched it, and some have done the bolt and plate thing, consenses seems that edventually it will crack again....
that being said try low costs repair and keep your eyes open for a cheap bolck from a salvage yard.

highly doubt you will get anything out of cummins or dodge

nickg

check out post number 40

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...-t82287p3.html

Hercules

I haven't done this myself, but, I've seen cracked blocks repaired at my brother-in-law's machine shop a few times. I believe he starts at the ends of the crack and drills, taps, and screws in what appears to be something like a long pipe plug. He then grinds down the plug flush with the surface. Next, he begins to fill in between the two plugs by repeating the process, but, he drills the next holes overlaping each previously installed plug. So, as you go, you are actually partially drilling into the plug you just installed. Then he grinds that set of plugs flush, and repeats. I can't remember if, after he installs the first plugs in the end, if he works from one end to the other or from both ends meeting in the center eventually. I think he works from both ends toward the center. If I remember, I'll have to ask him what he uses, since I think the plugs he uses are specifically for repairing cracked blocks and I don't know if he coats them with something. I can tell you that it is a long process...drill, tap, screw in plug, grind flush, repeat. The up side...it is the best way to repair a cracked block next to buying another block.

nelly

****! my new trucks an auto.

6speedcowboy

only real fix is a new block. problem is that the casting was too thin in the area where it cracks and then add some corrosion or extra strain from a modded motor and then it goes. saw one a while back that cracked down the entire length of the #1 cylinder

Hodge

Agreed. I have a friend with a 2000 3500, same thing. He had the engine pulled, shipped down to NC and welded (supposedly the shop knew what they were doing), shipped back, reinstalled, and cracked again as soon as it heated up. I don't think it was repaired correctly, but that being said, he found another engine cheaper than what he had just spent in labor and shipping. But, be careful that someone doesn't sell you a 53 block. I would imagine that some of these cheap engines floating around out there are cheap for a reason...

nelly

I totally agree the best fix is a new block & that is in my long term plan. But for now im looking for a good, easy, cheap short term fix.

Lock & stitch is NOT an option- too costly & poor results.

Anyone on the affects of running my truck with the radiator cap loose???

thanks
Doug

WestTN

If you run unpressurized you must not exceed 212 degrees Fahrenheit at sea level and cooler as the altitude incvreases. Among other things, this also means you MUST have the radiator and air coolers very clean. Failure to follow this will allow the raditor to boil over.

Search for #53 block for solutions to the problem.

dieselcamp

Use lock n stitch. Search the web and you will find it. It is an approved repair for CAT engines as well, infact a Cat failure analyisis instructor had told me Cat had bought lock n stitch.

nelly

Isnt lock & stitch costly, Ive heard $1,000 for the kit? It wouldnt be bad if it was a guaranteed fix....but it fails too & at that price I'd rather find a good used block.

nickg

The link I posted was a persons attempt at a repair, even with an auto I'm sure you could come up with something creative, the post I was looking for actually was someone "bolted" a plate on the crack, and they drilled and tapped 6-8 holes to do so, and sandwiched a piece of rubber in there or used RTV....

if only a temp fix, just to purely stop the leak, try welding it, some welders will pipe up I'm sure about the proper way to weld cast, but if its only a temp fix to stop the leak not the crack, its cheap and easy, I've seen a 350chev block that was cracked (water left in there for the winter) it had probably 30inches of cracks beneath the intake and on the outside of the block, my buddy welded it up with a 7018 or 6011 rods and put the engine back in a race car and ran it the whole season (finished 2nd in points for the yr) without a hitch, not saying you would be that lucky. There are also epoxys that are susposed to be pretty good as well..

nickg

here is another epoxy that I book marked, I read positive things about it, it was susposed to work (from the posts I read)

http://www.belzona.com/engines_casings.aspx