running cracked 53 block..
#16
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Info On 53
good to know pulled this up on google may help
What is the "53" block?
The "53" comes from a casting number on the side of the block and is used to identify the problem blocks. Supposedly it affects about 100,000 blocks, but not only in Dodge Rams. Here is information regarding the castings from a thread on TDR:
Copied from: 2001 cracked block - TDR Roundtable
1. Brazilian Blocks are cast by a company named "TUPY" and are marked such. They are identified with cast evolution numbers. #53's are TUPY's. #54 and later evolutions were improved to correct the block issues that the 53's had.
2. Mexican Blocks were made by "Teksid" these blocks to my knowledge never had a problem with cracking, as they are heavier duty by trait, but they did follow the evolutions and got thicker. These blocks do not have the 2 digit "cast number" embossed on the side, instead a series of numbers that are unidentifiable to me. The Mexican blocks were rumored to even be harder to machine do to a harder cast overall, basically better quality in my opinion.
Brazilian Tupys always seem to outnumber Mexican blocks during the ISB's production probably about 8 to 1. So basically if there is a pattern number its Brazilian, if there is a series of small numbers its Mexican.
By the way the Mexican equivalent of a 56 pattern was the Heaviest ISB block of all. This means if you have a 2002 without a #56 on it and instead it has a series of numbers that are smaller and hard to identify, you got the the big boy!!!
Why the Worry?
Simply, the worry is that the block will crack. These blocks have thinner water jacket walls than other blocks so with coolant cavitation, corrosion, coolant pressure in the block, and torque, they may crack, spilling your coolant. I know from experience that it will not blow up the engine, but you will see that temp gauge rise more often than you'd like.
How Do I Find out?
If you want to see if your engine block could be one of these dreaded "53" blocks, crawl under the front, left side, and look up at the block on the front, directly under the injector pump (by the PS pump). You should see a large wiring harness mounted to the block. Directly below this, just above where the oil pan meets the block you will look for a "53" cast in the block. The numbers will be about 1 inch tall. See picture below:
Read more: is cummins or dodge doing anything about the 53 ... - JustAnswer
Attached Images
__________________
What is the "53" block?
The "53" comes from a casting number on the side of the block and is used to identify the problem blocks. Supposedly it affects about 100,000 blocks, but not only in Dodge Rams. Here is information regarding the castings from a thread on TDR:
Copied from: 2001 cracked block - TDR Roundtable
1. Brazilian Blocks are cast by a company named "TUPY" and are marked such. They are identified with cast evolution numbers. #53's are TUPY's. #54 and later evolutions were improved to correct the block issues that the 53's had.
2. Mexican Blocks were made by "Teksid" these blocks to my knowledge never had a problem with cracking, as they are heavier duty by trait, but they did follow the evolutions and got thicker. These blocks do not have the 2 digit "cast number" embossed on the side, instead a series of numbers that are unidentifiable to me. The Mexican blocks were rumored to even be harder to machine do to a harder cast overall, basically better quality in my opinion.
Brazilian Tupys always seem to outnumber Mexican blocks during the ISB's production probably about 8 to 1. So basically if there is a pattern number its Brazilian, if there is a series of small numbers its Mexican.
By the way the Mexican equivalent of a 56 pattern was the Heaviest ISB block of all. This means if you have a 2002 without a #56 on it and instead it has a series of numbers that are smaller and hard to identify, you got the the big boy!!!
Why the Worry?
Simply, the worry is that the block will crack. These blocks have thinner water jacket walls than other blocks so with coolant cavitation, corrosion, coolant pressure in the block, and torque, they may crack, spilling your coolant. I know from experience that it will not blow up the engine, but you will see that temp gauge rise more often than you'd like.
How Do I Find out?
If you want to see if your engine block could be one of these dreaded "53" blocks, crawl under the front, left side, and look up at the block on the front, directly under the injector pump (by the PS pump). You should see a large wiring harness mounted to the block. Directly below this, just above where the oil pan meets the block you will look for a "53" cast in the block. The numbers will be about 1 inch tall. See picture below:
Read more: is cummins or dodge doing anything about the 53 ... - JustAnswer
Attached Images
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#18
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I had a 53 block on my 99 and pulled the heck out of it running a Power Max 3 from just about day one. I would say i'm in the majority with 53 blocks. Some crack some don't it's one of those things that you can't do anything about so I spent my time worring about things I could fix.
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had a cracked 53 on a twin turbo 24 valve, replaced it with a 2003 12 valve bus block but reused the internals (crank, rods, pistons) p.pumped it and actually was very happy with the power it made, when it cracked as well on the usual spot but big time front to rear from one moment to the next going 145 miles on the autubahn for around 40 miles with absolutely healthy numbers EGT, Coolant etc. it was turning 2800 rpm (I have a gear vendor) I thik that the reason might be as well as the weak block the lack of balancing on the brasilian 53 blocks. That leads to problems by reusng the same components in a new block without proper balancing. anybody heard of a similar story? I´ll do the rebuilt with professionaly balanced components only
#20
I have had 2 99 trucks that cracked. The one I still have is pretty well modified & has about 20000 miles since the lock-n-stitch. It will stay in till it stops running, then be replaced with a non 53 block. I do not baby it & time will tell.
#21
Wanted to pitch in on the subject. I have a 99 with a 53 block that cracked from the front to the back. Leaked terribly, lock n stitch was a waste of time. I have a friend who owns a welding shop and he welded the block and added a huge plate over the weld and then welded the plate. Plus he did it in the truck! Said it was one of the more difficult welds he has done, a cast iron welding rod is hard to weld vertically. It has been three years and it seeps a little at the vertical welds not the horizontal welds. I usually use about half a gallon every 700 miles or so. Problably less if I wouldn't run it like a race car. Welding is great but remember that the cast iron you are welding is contaminated with antifreeze and even when you dry it you will never get the oil from the antifreeze out. Truck runs great, I am happy with the result.
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