lone star

Howdy Folks!!! Recently purchased my first diesel (Dodge 3500, Quad Cab, 5 speed, Ranchand bumper/brushguard, rear, and full running board) and I'd like to present some questions to you as follows:

#1) First oil change today, I requested Dodge service to check the differential fluid level. A quart low and a few "metal" shavings on the plug. The mechanic stated that I should take it back to the Dodge dealer I purchased it from to investigate the shavings. How serious is this? By the way it only has 2350 easy miles.

#2) Does skipping "granny" gear adversely affect the transmission-though low, I've faithfully started in first until I hear other opinions.

#3) What about fuel additives? The manual states they're unnecessary, but, I've read many positive responses on this great site.

I certainly appreciate any and all advice concerning the above and any thing else that might be helpful--Thank You Amigos!!!

wannadiesel

The '03 apparently don't need to be filled until the lube spills out the fill hole, supposed to be full when lube is 1/2 to 3/4 inch below hole. Seems wierd to me, why didn't they just put the hole lower? Shavings are probably from break-in, as long as it wasn't big chunks of metal it's probably fine.<br>You only need first when pulling a heavy load or starting on a very steep hill. They really should call it &quot;low&quot; instead of first.<br>Here is something to scare you about untreated fuel. I'm running Stanadyne PF because they build injection pumps and injectors, so I feel they know what will keep a fuel system safe and happy. Others swear by Power Service and Lucas, I liked Stanadyne's propaganda better.

lone star

Thanks Wannadiesel!!! Do you put the Stanadyne PF in with every fill-up? What's your opinion on by-pass oil filters? And, do you know of any tail gate locking devices; I live near the Mexican border, and my other Dodge (gas) had it's tailgate stolen...it's common down here? Thanks again!!!

wannadiesel

Bypass oil filters can't hurt, but these engines routinely go past 200k without them. How long do you plan to keep the truck - if the answer is forever, get a bypass - if it's 5 years, don't bother. I put the PF in every tank. I've seen tailgate locks in JC Whitney, ones that wire into the power door locks and ones that are just a removable locking plastic block theat immobilizes the tailgate handle.

lone star

Thanks again Wannadiesel!!! Plan to keep the truck until the body rusts out. Any suggestions on oil additives? As you can tell, I want to take care of my truck from the start. I did so with my 'ol 1991 Dodge D250 (360cid) and it's still running great at 217000 miles....body looks like H@#L but it still gets the job done!!! Thanks friend!!!

wannadiesel

I'm not big on oil addatives, I just use good oil. The big 3 for Diesels are Delvac (made by Mobil), Delo (made by Chevron), and Rotella (made by Shell). Wally Mart has all 3 for good prices. I use Delvac 1300s 15w-40, it's not stinky like Rotella. Delo is the #1 fleet oil in the U.S. <br>From the mileage on your last truck I don't think a bypass is a must-have for you, mine is at 212k and I have no idea what was done for the first 200k. I like the idea of bypass filters but I think it's probably too late to bother on my truck. BTW, Fleetguard (Cummins' captive filter maker) and others make synthetic media full-flow filters that filter down to 5 micron. Fleetguard calls it Stratapore, the Donaldson ones are called Endurance, and there are probably others.

lone star

Your a great help Wannadiesel!!! Shall heed your wise advice!!! As issues arise, I shall dutifully post them on this site, until then, Thanks and best of success and good health!!!!

Barney

I have one of these tailgate locks on my 98.5. Its not absolutely bulletproof, but it keeps the honest people out.<br><br>http://www.pace-edwards.com/powergate.asp<br><br><br>Many people have speculated Dodge reduced the oil level in the differentials to below the fill hole to keep the oil out of the axle tubes. Seems they had a LOT of warranty claims for leaky axle seals. Their &quot;fix&quot; was to keep the oil away from the seal. GREAT idea, huh??<br><br>Usually, at about 85k miles, the journal areas of the axle shafts where the seal lip rides has a groove worn into them. By this time the seal is cooked from lack of lube too. So to do a good repair, you need to use some Speedy Sleeves or a similar sleeve type product on the axles when you replace the seal. <br><br>The American Axles on the '03s might be different. I would check with a GM dealer to see where they recommend the oil level to be.

KATOOM

Hey lone star, wannadiesel had some good advise but I strongly suggest reading many many posts on your questions and before deciding what to do. Everyone has their way and is doing something different for many reasons. There is no cookie cutter way about these trucks. Some are HP dragsters and some for heavy pulling work. The spectrum range is pretty broad. <br>I personally dont use fuel additive yet. Havent heard enough guys say that they didnt and their truck is now broke. But I have heard of guys using it with little or no gains. Dont know. <br>I also start in first everytime unless the truck is rolling a little. These are very heavy rides and I dont need to buy a clutch just because of lack of patience. <br>Just about the only two things most guys will agree on is...get gauges and watch your fuel pressure. Other than that its all personal preference. <br>Have fun and good luck!

Bearfoot2

[quote author=Barney link=board=4;threadid=17531;start=0#164237 date=1059190985]<br>I would check with a GM dealer to see where they recommend the oil level to be. [/quote]<br><br>Barney, I'm gonna show my ignorance - again --- Why check with a GM dealer for the oil level on a ram. ???

Barney

Starting with the '03 model year, Dana was replaced by American Axle as the supplier for Dodge Ram trucks. It seems DC and Dana had a difference of opinion on the magnitude of warranty claims for Dana products.

Here are a couple of links for the American Axle info.
http://www.thenewdodge.com/ram/

http://www.trucktrend.com/roadtests/...am/index1.html

http://www.freep.com/money/business/axle8_20020408.htm

http://www.aam.com/technology/tech_p..._rearaxle.html

You can see AAM suopplies a lot of their products to GM vehicles. An easy and painless way to verify the proper axle lube level is to check with a GM dealer and see what they do. The history of low axle lube levels in Ram trucks and the problems with rear axle tube seals is reason enough to verify the lube level with a second source.

Bearfoot2

Many thanks Barney.

One doesn't have to be a noobie to be ignorant :-[ and once more knowledge is gained in the formum.

Stan

RalphWood

If you install a bypass filter make sure it is submicronic. Most diesel soot is smaller than full flow filters can deal with. Most soot is smaller than most bypass filters can deal with. <br> Most submicronic bypass filters are going to the Department of Defense to cut down on waste of natural resources. Some are on offshore rigs. They are on all of North Carolina D.O.T. ferry boats. Navistar and General Motors are factory installing them on North Carolina D.O.T. trucks.<br> The way I've done it for 40 years is I install the submicronic bypass filter on a vehicle when I purchase it and remove it and install it on the next piece of equipment. My oldest filter still in use is the Motor Guard oil cleaner 30 years old. I gave up allowing oil to get dirty wear and foul the engine then draining it in 1963. <br> Motor Guard only makes one size. The government buys the larger Gulf Coast bypass filter. GM sells the GM 1507 1671 bypass filter. <br> A guy called me wanting to know where he could get refill elements for the Gulf Coast filters on his GM diesel pickup that he bought from Army surplus. It has two GCF 0-1 jr's on the lube oil, one on the fuel and one on the ATF.<br> Filters that clean oil are getting more in demand.<br><br>Ralph