Replacing Tranny Any Advise?
#1
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Replacing Tranny Any Advise?
I just ordered a Goerend Bros. Tranny and would like to ask a few questions before I get it next week.
I am no stranger to removing a tranny but am a stranger to the CTD tranny and its suroundings. When I get it out are there any seals or gaskets that I can change out in the rear of the motor (rear main seal?)or in the transfercase if needed. I figure since I am there i might as well go ahead and change something simple while i got it out and not have to take the tranny out later to do it.
Is there any thing I should look out for? some does or donts?
What is recomended for the t-case fluid?
I am no stranger to removing a tranny but am a stranger to the CTD tranny and its suroundings. When I get it out are there any seals or gaskets that I can change out in the rear of the motor (rear main seal?)or in the transfercase if needed. I figure since I am there i might as well go ahead and change something simple while i got it out and not have to take the tranny out later to do it.
Is there any thing I should look out for? some does or donts?
What is recomended for the t-case fluid?
#2
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Pull the transfer case as a separate unit from the transmission.
Just bend the metal vacuum lines on the cross member out of the way. You won't hurt them.
The cross member takes a big hammer or a jack betwwen the frame rails to remove. It is tight. I use a big dead-blow hammer to persuade it.
The transfer case takes ATF.
Chris
Just bend the metal vacuum lines on the cross member out of the way. You won't hurt them.
The cross member takes a big hammer or a jack betwwen the frame rails to remove. It is tight. I use a big dead-blow hammer to persuade it.
The transfer case takes ATF.
Chris
#3
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Why bend the t-case vacuum lines? Remove three little screws and unplug them at both ends and just set them aside.
I also completely removed the tranny cooler lines all the way up the rubber lines at the front of the truck to get them out of hte way as well. I not really sure why they didn't put a coupling in those lines somewhere around the the bellhousing to engine mounting surface so you could just remove the back half to get them out of the way.
I also completely removed the tranny cooler lines all the way up the rubber lines at the front of the truck to get them out of hte way as well. I not really sure why they didn't put a coupling in those lines somewhere around the the bellhousing to engine mounting surface so you could just remove the back half to get them out of the way.
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Originally Posted by Mechanos
I not really sure why they didn't put a coupling in those lines somewhere around the the bellhousing to engine mounting surface so you could just remove the back half to get them out of the way.
#5
he was not joken about the crossmember if you can get hold of a port-a-power will make removeal and istall a lot easyer and safer but a bottlejack and peaice of metal works that is what i used but thats what i had no auto but had to clutch so thats all i can help with
#6
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Originally Posted by Mechanos
Why bend the t-case vacuum lines? Remove three little screws and unplug them at both ends and just set them aside.
Chris
#7
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I had to use my Hi-Lift jack to get my cross member out/in.
Do yourself a favor and start spraying the cooler line fittings with penetrating fluid, especially under the heat exchanger, they are prety stubborn to get out and you'll need a 19mm flare nut wrench or crows foot.
good luck
scotte
Do yourself a favor and start spraying the cooler line fittings with penetrating fluid, especially under the heat exchanger, they are prety stubborn to get out and you'll need a 19mm flare nut wrench or crows foot.
good luck
scotte
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When putting the crossmember back in smear the frame and the crossmember with axle grease it'll help it sliding back in. These guys are right about the port a power if you can get one that crossmember is a pain.
Disclaimer: The last time I used a tamprod and a couple of blocks of wood to "pry" the crossmember out. MISTAKE! when the crossmember breaks free the pieces of wood become projectiles! and will knock you out! just a little reminder! It was alot quicker this way compared to the pound it out way but much more painful!
Disclaimer: The last time I used a tamprod and a couple of blocks of wood to "pry" the crossmember out. MISTAKE! when the crossmember breaks free the pieces of wood become projectiles! and will knock you out! just a little reminder! It was alot quicker this way compared to the pound it out way but much more painful!
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