mslashbar

Do I need a special socket for taking off the pinion nut to remove the yoke or will a standard 3/4" drive socket work? Also how hard is it to get the yoke off after I get the nut off. This is on a 2002 4x4 2500 with dana 80 rear end. Thanks in advance.

bob4x4

The socket needs to be VERY thin wall and a puller should be used to remove it.

Bob

johnh

just curious, why do you need to?

mslashbar

I need to replace the pinion seal. Thanks

bent valves

Make sure the OD of the socket is 2.45" or less. Sockets made in the USA usually work but I found the ones from China are too thick.

FFmike

They do make a special socket for just this task, but at a rather steep price. I bought a 1/2" drive from a local tool store and turned it on my friends lathe after micing the inside dia of the yoke wall. Turns out it's tapered, as I found out later when the socket didn't go in far enough, so I tapered the end down. I could have turned it some more, but I wanted to keep its structural integrity in tact, as later events proved.

The two square stocks ( with another not shown) are results of cheaters on breaker bars trying to break the nut loose. Then used a 3/4" drive impact with adapter to no avail. That adapter held up. End result of what you see was tracing a 1.5" nut on top and grinding it down, like the high dollar socket. This allowed use of box end wrench and a six foot cheater to finally budge it. Was kind of hesitant to look underneath after I heard the "toink" of it breaking loose but all was good. Before all this took place, I had the back tires off the ground, backed the yoke up with a 24" pipe wrench and had it in neutral with wheel chocks up front. Also, after breaking the cheaters, I did apply heat with a rose bud after an hour of impacting before finally getting it with the wrench.

Mine had 180K on the clock, and a fraction of that was pulling 32' goosenecks
with Cat backhoes, among other things. Still wouldn't think it would have been as hard as it was to get off, but I've heard others say they can be just the PIA as mine was. You might want to inspect your yoke for any grooves at the sealing area. Mine had one so I put a speedi-sleeve on it and it hasn't leaked since. Compared to cost of a new yoke couldn't beat it. Others might say to get a used yoke, but I didn't have the time to spend searching for one or chancing that it might leak down the road and have to do this all over again.

Oh, BTW, if your front one leaks after replacing the seal, it's the end of the yoke itself. They have a pressed on cap, kind of like a freeze plug. Clean it real good and run a bead of sealant around it.

mslashbar

Thank you all for the advice. I have a 3/4" torque multiplier that I can use to loosen and tighten the nut as long as I can get my socket to fit. I haven't pulled the driveline off to check the socket yet, just been too busy.
Scott

Pam Quilty

what size socet needed to remove the yoke nut,for my 2004'diesel truck
the front yoke! thanks Bill