Ok, I've been convinced, by the majority, that removing the turbo to drill the manifold is the safest thing to do.

My question is; when reattaching the turbo, do I need to put anything on the threads (antiseize, locktite, etc.)? Am I correct in saying the bolts require 25 ft lbs of torque?

Hope this is in the right forum!

 

I would use some anti-seize on the threads. If you ever need to remove it again you will be thankful. 25 ft lbs is the correct torque.

 

why bother, just use grease and a magnet.... what ever small amount of metal (if any) that gets in will be gone when you start the engine ---- your turbo will not even be turning when it`s cleaned out

 

Here we go again Piperca you are doing it properly!!

 

Yes, piperca IS doing it properly.

But the improper way has been used by many of us with no harm whatsoever.

If you elect to drill without turbo removal, here are some things to keep in mind:

1) Work SLOWLY. Use a low speed drill (800 rpm or so) and grease it up to help collect shavings. Using a SHARP (preferable NEW) drill bit. IIRC, the correct size bit for a 1/8" NPT tap is 5/64". Start your drilling, being aware of how much progress the bit is making towards breaking through.

2) Just before the bit is about to break through, start the engine. With the engine running (and the manifold therefore pressurized), drill the rest of the hole to where it penetrates and the bit will break through entirely.

3) Turn the engine off. Grease up your 1/8" NPT tap and tap the threads. With heavy greasing, the recessed areas of the tap will hold the grease and the vast majority of the shavings. Keep in mind that tapping the threads removes a LOT less metal than drilling the hole, so even if you didn't use any grease at all, the risk of turbo damage is pretty low-- perhaps insignificant. The grease will catch most of the few metal cuttings that the tap produces.

4) Do not tap the threads too deeply. You don't want the probe bottoming out insde the manifold. Just tap enough threads to secure the probe. The shallower, the better.

5) Use some antiseize to install the probe fitting, as this will make it easier to avoid galling or cross-threading the fitting in the manifold. It also helps with any future removal.


When I first installed my pyro, I did the post-turbo thing because I was afraid. I later mustered the courage to move it pre-turbo using the above procedure, and I've never regretted doing so.

There is a picture of my pyro location in my gallery-- this represents the "ideal" location according the folks like Piers and others in the know.

JLH

 

HOHN,

I agree with you many people have done this without removing the turbo and had no trouble, but some people have lost turbos. For the extra 1/2 hour it takes to remove the turbo, why not???

 

Too cheap to pay the $5 Dodge wants for the gaskets maybe?

Honestly I think it takes longer to do the greasy bit and tap routine than it does to just drop the turbo. One of those things that seems like the easy way out but isn't.

 

For the love of Pete, stop arguing, I'm taking the darn thing off!

I was under the impression that you don't have to replace the gasket. Is this true?

 

The gasket is stamped steel and seals by being crushed. It does not spring back when you unbolt the turbo. I've dropped my turbo four times now, all the gaskets were flat and I wouldn't have expected any of them to seal if reinstalled. The oil return gasket is paper and has usually been turned rock-hard from the heat. It tears when you separate the return from the turbo. Scraping it off is the most time consuming part of dropping the turbo. Your local Dodge dealer only wants $5 for the two gaskets you need, why not do it right the first time?

 

Drill and tap in place. Use a magnet to get the majority if chips out. No problem.
Brother is a 30 year diesel mechanic. He did his like this and so did I. I was going to take the Turbo off. He just happened to come over just as I was starting the job. Told him my approach........older bro just laughed. I did as he suggested. He is the pro. Glad I listened to him. Last thing I want to do is screw up my engine or truck.

 

I'm only unbolting the turbo from the manifold, so I'm sure I'll only need the one gasket. The $500 for a new turbo (worst scenario) will pay for my exhaust and intake!

 

I used my shop vac with the crevis tool held right next to the drilling operation to suck up the shavings while drilling.
Greased the tap, cut the threads 1/2 way, cleaned the tap, regreased, and finished the threads.

That was 4 years and 50,000 miles ago.......

 

Ya gotta do what makes you feel comfortable. If you dont and something goes wrong.....who ya gunna call? If things get hosed the way you want to do it then the only one to blame is you. I normally take the safe road, wind up taking too long but the outcome is always fine.

 

Take it off, It only takes a min and you'll sleep better that night.

 

The problem isn't the chips formed while drilling, they usually stay on the outside even if you take no precautions. The problem that can mess up the turbo is the big chip that always gets pushed in when the bit breaks though.
I wouldn't consider drilling without moving the turbo out of the way unless I wasn't going to be the one paying for any damage, even then I still wouldn't feel right about it nor want to mess around with a magnet.
I've always successfully reused the turbo gasket and have never had to disconnect the oil lines when just swinging the turbo out a little to slip a piece of cardboard in.