Rear Ends - Change Gear lube
#1
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Rear Ends - Change Gear lube
Can someone tell me the proper way to change the gear oil in the rear end? The dealer shows that they used a cleaner to rinse the rear end out with. Is this required?
I'm changing it bucause the dealer changed it at 29,990 and now at 37,500 it is dark (I mean dark!)
I wondering if the cleaner was used improperly and cause the gear oil to break down?
The truck is used mostly on the highway and little towing. 25K miles a year.
I'm changing it bucause the dealer changed it at 29,990 and now at 37,500 it is dark (I mean dark!)
I wondering if the cleaner was used improperly and cause the gear oil to break down?
The truck is used mostly on the highway and little towing. 25K miles a year.
#2
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Well, I'm not sure of the "proper" way to do it, but when I do mine here in a few weeks, here's how I plan on doing it:
Unbolt cover, place container under diff to catch fluid, let drain, re-bolt and torque to 30 ft-lbs (i think thats the proper torque??), refil and add additive (8 oz. for 2wd, 10 oz. for 4wd).
Be prepared for one helk of a mess!!!
I'm still not sure if I'm gonna go synthetic or not. Either way, 80W-90 or equal.
Good luck, Hunter
P.S. BigBlue did his a while back, PM him if you have any q's.
Unbolt cover, place container under diff to catch fluid, let drain, re-bolt and torque to 30 ft-lbs (i think thats the proper torque??), refil and add additive (8 oz. for 2wd, 10 oz. for 4wd).
Be prepared for one helk of a mess!!!
I'm still not sure if I'm gonna go synthetic or not. Either way, 80W-90 or equal.
Good luck, Hunter
P.S. BigBlue did his a while back, PM him if you have any q's.
#3
My way of changing diff fluid:
1. Buy oil, additive, and gasket maker
2. Get catch can, socket wrench and sockets, rubber mallet, and a 6 pack or your favorite brew
3. Put catch can under diff
4. Remove bolts holding diff cover on
5. Whack diff cover with mallet if it won't come off
6. Get splashed with the nastiest smelling oil in the world
7. Crack a beer open
8. Scrape old gasket off cover and housing
9. Beer
10. Apply bead of gasket maker to cover
11. Replace cover and bolts
12. Fill with oil
13. Spill oil all over ground and on you
14. Beer
15. Drive around in a figure 8 to see if limited slip binds
16. If it binds, drink a beer and add A LITTLE BIT AT A TIME in
17. Repeat steps 15-16 until the rear end stops binding
That's how I did it.
1. Buy oil, additive, and gasket maker
2. Get catch can, socket wrench and sockets, rubber mallet, and a 6 pack or your favorite brew
3. Put catch can under diff
4. Remove bolts holding diff cover on
5. Whack diff cover with mallet if it won't come off
6. Get splashed with the nastiest smelling oil in the world
7. Crack a beer open
8. Scrape old gasket off cover and housing
9. Beer
10. Apply bead of gasket maker to cover
11. Replace cover and bolts
12. Fill with oil
13. Spill oil all over ground and on you
14. Beer
15. Drive around in a figure 8 to see if limited slip binds
16. If it binds, drink a beer and add A LITTLE BIT AT A TIME in
17. Repeat steps 15-16 until the rear end stops binding
That's how I did it.
#5
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Thanks... You all agree that you just drain & fill... But no one ever said anything about using a solvent or cleaner for the housing?
Then why does DC use one?
Oh well go back to the KISS method... Keep It Simple Stupid!
Nice place to start is here...
Then why does DC use one?
Oh well go back to the KISS method... Keep It Simple Stupid!
Nice place to start is here...
#6
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Here is a nice website that has instructions and pictures of most of the basic maintenance you need to do. I used it when I first got my truck. It has a step by step for diff changes with pics. This guy flushes his diff with gear oil, no solvents though. I think so long as you get the old oil and any metal shavings or dirt out you should be fine. Never thought of draining the tubes though.
Here is the link
http://www.geocities.com/palmerlivestock/OurTruck.html
BigBlue's way sounds pretty good also so take your pick. I especially like number 7,9, and 14.
RT
Here is the link
http://www.geocities.com/palmerlivestock/OurTruck.html
BigBlue's way sounds pretty good also so take your pick. I especially like number 7,9, and 14.
RT
#7
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My first post so, "Hi all".
I'm real **** about changing fluids and am sold on synthetics.
I've been using Royal Purple gear lube, from Jegs or Summit. In my jeep the LSD changed its manners on the second change.
Traction is addicting!!!
Oh yeah, lube is cheap, I pump it out and replace annually.
I'm real **** about changing fluids and am sold on synthetics.
I've been using Royal Purple gear lube, from Jegs or Summit. In my jeep the LSD changed its manners on the second change.
Traction is addicting!!!
Oh yeah, lube is cheap, I pump it out and replace annually.
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#8
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Solvents don't sound like a good idea to me to use on the rear end. When was the last time you heard of a rear end going out when you are not towing heavy duty? They are pretty tough. Just change the oil and put a thread sealer on the drain plug to avoid the seapage like the picture shows above. Synthetics? Yea, I suppose, if it makes you feel better.
#9
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Comment about the leak...
The plug doesn't leak! It the own that makes a mess dipping his finger in the hole to check the fluid. Here in Idaho there is no since in making the underside of you truck look nice because most of the roads are dirt, mud, snow, rock, etc... But little paved Drive it like a DODGE!
The plug doesn't leak! It the own that makes a mess dipping his finger in the hole to check the fluid. Here in Idaho there is no since in making the underside of you truck look nice because most of the roads are dirt, mud, snow, rock, etc... But little paved Drive it like a DODGE!
#10
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Fairly simple process. Do yourself a small favor and drive the truck around for 10-15 miles or so to warm up the fluids before you get ready to drain it and it will drain a lot faster (especially if you do it below 60* or so), the pumpkin should be a bit warm to the touch, if its hot... let it cool back down a bit. Hot diff juice = ouch!
Dave
Dave
#11
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Well I would like to thank you all for the information on getting the diff. oils changed. I finally broke down and did it. I don't care how good you are at working on a car or truck that is a messy job to do! But I know in the long run it was the best thing to do!
Thank to all of you out there!
Thank to all of you out there!
#12
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Cleaner is a NO NO NO!! Do NOT use any kind of solvent to clean the rear end. You won't be able to get it all out, and it will break down the new lube.
You MAY be able to get away with it by blowing it dry w/ compressed air.
I would HIGHLY recommend a Redline Gear oil. Either the 75-90 if you don't tow heavy, or the 75W-140 if you do.
JLH
You MAY be able to get away with it by blowing it dry w/ compressed air.
I would HIGHLY recommend a Redline Gear oil. Either the 75-90 if you don't tow heavy, or the 75W-140 if you do.
JLH
#13
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That the thought I had why did the dealer use a "CLEANER" in the Diff. Don't make sense..???
That is why I'm changing the lube early... The Gear oil was black and shot at 7,000 miles...
And no I DID NOT use a clean or solvent on my change!
Thanks All!
That is why I'm changing the lube early... The Gear oil was black and shot at 7,000 miles...
And no I DID NOT use a clean or solvent on my change!
Thanks All!
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Originally posted by Mcmopar
Moparman,
Do you work on all of those cars listed? How did you change your diff fluid before?
Moparman,
Do you work on all of those cars listed? How did you change your diff fluid before?
I hope you understand... Also it's my first CTD!!! Yeah!
I've got to get off my ___ and get me a book for these trucks. All the other vehilces shown I have books for and proper knowledge of maintence.
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