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No start after new VP

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Old 10-13-2010, 05:12 AM
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IIRC, there is a fuse in the dash panel that could be blown, might want to check that.

If you do wind up checking to see if the key is in place, You can see if it's in there with a mirror & flashlight. You'd need to pull the breather, nut & lock washer off.
Old 10-13-2010, 09:44 AM
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I put a code reader on it and cleared all the old codes. Cranked her over and no new codes that mean anything. ( I had tps codes and iat codes) But those were because I cranked the truck with the tps and iat disconnected by accident.

I am still not sure about my fuel leak. May just be runoff from the injectors being opened...

I know the key is in....Checked and saw it...

My batteries are too dead to crank much, right now.

I am beginning to believe that it is just severely air locked...
Old 10-13-2010, 11:49 AM
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As said before, crack more injectors. FSM specifies the procedure in detail. pdftown has the 01 & other FSMs. I cracked all that I could get to with the air horn installed. Also had to pull injector tubes, clean the ends, replace the o-ring then snug & loosen a few times to get them to seal. Cummins o-rings at $1.79 were better than new tubes at $25. Your lift pump is acting correctly.
Old 10-13-2010, 12:28 PM
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Got it!!!!! Yeah..

It was extremely air locked.

I got the batteries charged for about three hours and I was able to crank it over real fast.
Apparently once the injectors leak a little, you need to tighten them up.

I had not tightened the injectors and once I did, she stumbled a bit and fired right up.

Sounds great and purrs like a kitten.

Thanks all for your help and suggestions.

Still need to refill the coolant and p/s fluid and she should be on the road again. Also, the leak was the injectors leaking down the top of the intake.
Old 10-13-2010, 12:48 PM
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Good deal. Glad you got er runnin.
Old 10-13-2010, 08:16 PM
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Originally Posted by b4wheeler
Still need to refill the coolant and p/s fluid and she should be on the road again. Also, the leak was the injectors leaking down the top of the intake.
Make sure the front wheels are off the ground if you need to bleed air from steering system.

To fix leaking injector lines at the head: 1st try loosening & retightening a few times.

2nd, pop the injector tubes out (with a small screwdriver), clean the ends with scotchbrite or 1000 grit or smoother sandpaper, replace o-rings with genuine Cummins (I couldn't find others that fit). Finally tighten. Loosen & snug if simple cleaning & tightening doesn't fix it. Injector tubes are a solid piece & shouldn't need to be replaced.

edit: I left the engine lifting bracket in the tool box so I could get to the back injector & IAT.
Old 10-13-2010, 08:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Junk Man
To fix leaking injector lines at the head: 1st try loosening & retightening a few times.

2nd, pop the injector tubes out (with a small screwdriver), clean the ends with scotchbrite or 1000 grit or smoother sandpaper, replace o-rings with genuine Cummins (I couldn't find others that fit). Finally tighten. Loosen & snug if simple cleaning & tightening doesn't fix it. Injector tubes are a solid piece & shouldn't need to be replaced.

edit: I left the engine lifting bracket in the tool box so I could get to the back injector & IAT.
I got the leak fixed by tightening all injectors. They were all loosened to bleed the system.

The engine lifting bracket disappeared when the injectors were installed a few years ago.
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