weiercd

Hey guys I am dead in the water here and can't get this thing going as winter is fast approaching. My truck threw a MAP sensor code a few weeks back, it had to crank several times before it would fire over, I figured a MAP sensor could cause this problem, although the truck would run fine once started. I put brand new batteries in the truck 8 months ago a starter 2 years ago along with a new VP and lift pump 2 years ago. The truck only threw the one code.

I have unplugged the MAP, no change, unplugged the chip and connected the factory MAP wire, no change. I have now replaced the MAP sensor, and I cannot get the truck to even crank, not even getting the starter tick. Any ideas or advice would be great thanks guys.

Junk Man

No crank means electricity isn't getting through solenoid to starter or starter is bad. Low battery, corroded battery cables at either end, disconnected trio wire on solenoid or bad ignition switch can cause electricity to not go where it is supposed to.

If voltage is correct, bad starter contacts, internal solenoid or starter problem can cause starter to not spin engaged.

Start by measuring battery voltage. 12.6 = full charge. Turn key to start. Watch voltage. It should drop some but not less than 11+. You have now load tested your battery.

Disconnect small trip wire on solenoid. Key to start, measure voltage. It should be full battery voltage. Your ignition switch is working.

Install wire with alligator clip on small solenoid terminal. Touch other end to + battery post. Engine should crank. Make sure trans is in neutral first.

If it doesn't crank, pull starter. You'll need 10mm 12 pt box end & perhaps jack & block of wood to loosen bolts. Make sure battery is disconnected. Now suspect starter contacts. Lots of info in the forums.

weiercd

Thanks Junk Man, very informative post. I tried the batteries themselves and this clearly wasn't the problem. The starter is so new that it's hard to think it could be bad already but stranger things have happened. Because of the age of the truck I am thinking it might be the Clutch switch or ignition at this point, and of course could be the starter too. I am at the point which toying with it in the gravel lot in 20 degree windy weather is no longer fun and may bite the bullet and bring it too a dealer.

Copenhagenjunkie

Here is a situation where giving proper info in your sig or adding it to your 1st post would be beneficial.

Neutral safety switch is under the dash above clutch pedal. Unplug and use a jumper wire to see if it starts.

high bid

starters from the franchise auto place probably won't last more than 2yrs w/the basic starter contacts installed. AND YES you can get a bad starter. I would bet that is your issue.

weiercd

Ok so pulled the starter and had it bench tested, it works perfectly fine. On to the next item. Has anyone out there swapped their Clutch switch? Or possibly run a jumper to see if it's bad? I looked quick under the dash and it's location wasn't obvious.

Copenhagenjunkie

What year is your truck? My clutch switch had been disabled for 8 or 9 yrs. On my truck It's obvious to see but you got to lay down and look up, use a flash light. 2 wires closer to firewall then seat directly above clutch pedal.

weiercd

My Truck is a 99 I am hoping to get a bit of time to check it out tomorrow after work, Thanks for the info.

weiercd

Ok guys, thanks for all the input. It turned out that the starter partially died at the same time the MAP sensor went out they weren't related at all. The alternator also died at the same time hence the low batteries. Oh btw heads up the starter had a "dead spot" which is why it only periodically would work. I think I am now an expert in the Cummins/Dodge Starting/Charging systems lol.