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No 4WD, Bad U Joint, Loose Axle shaft

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Old 04-15-2006 | 10:45 PM
  #1  
Mototrout's Avatar
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From: Taos, NM
Question No 4WD, Bad U Joint, Loose Axle shaft

Hi All,
Glad I found this site. Just purchased a 2001 CTD 3500 DRW and have discovered some problems driving it home.

I have searched the forums for a few hours and have done a few things but still have questions.
I have no 4WD so I pulled the vacuum motor and shift fork. What I found in there were the shift fork plastic ends, a thin gauge piece of metal and I can lift the axle shaft up and down, its loose against the collar which the shift fork goes onto. Upon further inspection I discovered the passenger side u joint is shot and is leaking fluid from where it exits the axle housing. I also checked the vacuum lines. I seem to be only getting vacuum from the black line whether I am in 4WD or 2WD. Checked the fittings back to the transfer case and tightened up all the fittings.
My questions are these. Why is the axle shaft loose like that? Am I missing pieces in there from the collar to the splined axle shaft? How difficult is it to pull that axle shaft to replace the seal, as I am assuming there is one, and other axle pieces that seem to be worn out? Also, where can I find the POSI LOCK kit to replace the vacuum motor and actuator? One more question, it needs ball joints upper and lower, so which are the best ones at a reasonable cost?
I have some work ahead of me but the CTD makes it all seem so worthwhile. Trackbare will be next along with tie rod ends and a steering stablizer bracket since my steering is completely hurky jerky, shocks too, hopefully Bilsteins as budget allows.
Thanks in advance, Ted
Old 04-15-2006 | 11:03 PM
  #2  
torquefan's Avatar
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Joined: Sep 2003
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From: Calgary, Alberta
I've seen those problems several times, it's relatively common if the truck is used hard. You need to remove the rt. hub/bearing assy, and the 2 right side shafts. There is a plastic bushing in the housing that supports the intermediate shaft- you get at it through the disconnect housing, and a plastic pilot bushing that locates the 2 shafts together where they meet(where the collar slides between them. They will probably need replacing if the shafts can move up and down. Now, have a look at the mating splines on the two shafts, as well as the sliding collar. Usually, the splines on the intermediate shaft are worn into a ramp shape. If so, you need to replace the shaft, or it will always pop out of 4wd under load. Same goes with the outer shaft and the collar, but usually the intermediate shaft wears the worst. You need to tap out the old seal in the disconnect housing and pull in the new one. It's not much fun. I use a long piece of threaded rod, with a cup to fit the seal, and another cup to fit the outside of the axle tube. Pull the intermediate shaft into place through the new seal (use grease) AFTER the new seal is installed. Install the collar, then slide in the outer shaft and the hub/bearing/rotor. That part's done.

Your vacuum problem sounds like a failed vacuum switch on top of the transfer case.

Hope this helps.

PS- Welcome to the site!!
Old 11-16-2006 | 11:24 PM
  #3  
LITTLE B's Avatar
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i replaced my vacume switch when i didn't have 4x4 it still didnt work so i replaced all lines didnt work finally called summit for 200 bucks they sent me the posi lock unit i love it. as for the seals they are not that bad to replace while you have the axles out you should go ahead and have new u-joints put in and go ahead and replace the axle bearings to this may cost you about 300 or 400 bucks including posi lock but just got insurance
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