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Old 12-12-2007, 06:34 PM
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Newbie Question...

I have a stock 2002 3/4 ton CTD, 4x4. I was driving home a week ago, and the truck felt like it missed while going down the highway. Next thing I know, I get a check engine light. I pulled into AutoZone, had the codes read, and it showed cam shaft position and crankshaft position sensor bad. I was then told by a diesel tech from the local shop in Gainesville, Texas that my truck only has one sensor, the crankshaft position sensor, which is located by the IP and on the back of the timing cover. I changed the sensor, and while I was at it, I changed the fuel filter. The truck was bought used, I suspect the fuel filter has never been changed. It has 121,000 miles on it. The filter was black. IP was replaced at 60,000 miles, along with lift pump. Regular oil changes, like clock work ever 7500 miles.

Truck is STILL missing (particularly in the higher RPM's, above 2000) but has no codes. We never cleared the codes. Could this be my issue? Up to this point, never had an issue one with the truck. It has always ran perfectly. Any help would be GREATLY appreciated. Could the computer still think the sensor is bad? I have started and stopped the truck 12 times over the past 9 days. Shouldn't the computer have reset by now? FYI...I am not a diesel tech, and this is my first diesel truck. Thanks!!
Old 12-12-2007, 06:40 PM
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If i remember right the codes will stay in the memory for 40 cycles. as for the miss sorry can't help. I would get the codes cleared and rescan it at a later date. to see if anything pops up.
Old 12-12-2007, 06:44 PM
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Pardon my stupidity...Would a bad camshaft position sensor cause the truck to fell like it is missing? I know the word missing is not the right word...Jumping, maybe?? Like cruising at 70, and the truck "belches"??...
Old 12-12-2007, 07:08 PM
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I'm not sure my truck has both sensors. . fill in you signiture so we know what you have (yr, make, auto or manuel) and what mods you have done. you need to get some gauges, they will help with finding out stuff, like fuel pressure droping, boost pressure fluttering, (fuel pressure, boost, egt) can help. They can also help noticing a potintial problem. mine has a studder under high load conditions, I turned up my fass to increase my fuel pressure to the injector pump. this helped some but its still there. do a search on cleaning the IAT sensor this might help. I think it this helps some with a studder.
Old 12-12-2007, 07:17 PM
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Thank you for your advice. I will get the codes cleared, and let you know what came of it. I was unaware that the computer held the codes for 40 cycles...Maybe clearing the codes will do the trick...Again...THANK YOU.
Old 12-13-2007, 07:12 PM
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Angry

Well, cleared codes. Both codes were still present. Camshaft position sensor, and crankshaft position sensor. Cleared codes, and had truck re-read. Code reader passed truck. Driving home, got up to around 68-70 miles per hour, and decided I would try it. Gave it pedal, and it responded nicely, until about 75 MPH...then it felt like it was running out of fuel again. Truck has 3/4 tank of fuel in it, or $60.00 here in Texas Since there are no codes, I assume that the issue is mechanical. Maybe injector or lift pump?? Any other help would be appreciated. Might have to break down and take it to Dodge...anyone got $2,000 I can borrow???....lol Thanks in advance...Jason
Old 12-14-2007, 04:26 AM
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What rpm is it doing it. these truck are set to defuel at about 18or 19 psi of boost and or 2800 rpm. Defueling is just that, the ecm defuels the truck to bring the boost and or rpm down. I've been told that when an injector goes bad, your oil level will rise.
Old 12-14-2007, 04:58 PM
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Does the truck feel like it goes to idle then comes back to life after a second? This is what my truck did when the throttle position sensor(APPS) was on it's way out. It did it for a few weeks with no code and then it finally threw a code. You can do a search on how to reset your apps and see if that does anything. Eric
Old 12-14-2007, 07:06 PM
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6 wheeler....it starts doing it around 2200-2300 rpm. Feels like it is running out of diesel, then cuts back in and out...I think I am going to have Dodge check the fuel pressures and boost pressures?? A buddy of mine seems to think that it may be the fuel pump near the injector pump???....I am at a loss...I don't mind waiting on codes, but will I harm the truck if I continue to drive it in this condition? I drive about 100 miles round trip per day....LAST thing I want to do is harm the IP or the LP....Big money!!!....I will search on the APPS...see what i can find...FYI...that pump on the side of the motor is around $160.00....Not too awful bad....lol
Old 12-14-2007, 09:35 PM
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I would get the fuel pressure checked, The truck shouldn't be defueling at those rpms. If you still have that lift pump on the block the dealer might try to put in the intank pump instead of replacing the pump on the block. If you plan on doing any bombing, (injectors, performance box's, turbo's). I would look at aftermarket pump systems. Fass, Holley, Air dog, Raptor, are High performance pump that will better supply performance mods. The stock pump will only supply enough fuel for smaller performance mods. plus most of the aftermarket pumps have better warrenties and tech support.
Old 12-15-2007, 11:51 AM
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I had the IP and the FP replaced 16 months ago...I was told that the dealer should have changed the pump to the tank. Of course, the dealer says that they only warranty the install for 12 months/12,000 miles....lol...I don't plan on doing any mods to it...would you still recommend a hi-pro pump? Would you keep it on the block, or would you go ahead and put it in the tank?
Old 12-15-2007, 08:12 PM
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They blame the stock pumps failures on the motor vibration, thats why they moved it to the tank. These type on pumps are better designed to push fuel a greater distance than to pull the fuel from the tank. When my lp went the dealer told me that there was a 6 month warrenty. THis was the block mounted pump, before the tank pump came out. I was in florida at the time and they wanted $500 and change installed. The FASS system was about the same price at the time and had a 4yr warrenty. So I ordered the fass and and by the time I got back to Va it was here. I would look around at the aftermarket pump only systems just to see the warrenty difference. Fass, holley blue and black pumps, etc.
Old 12-17-2007, 06:59 PM
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That sounds like a good idea...Is the FASS hard to install? Does it need to be done by a mechanic? Again, thank you for all your help...
Old 12-17-2007, 08:54 PM
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Question

Anyone have any idea why my Dodge has a miss(?) at idle and if you apply a very slight clutch pressure it goes away?

02 Dodge quad, long bed bioburner, duel carters, k&n and that's it
Doug
Old 12-18-2007, 01:30 PM
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jasonneal, you can check the codes without a reader on your rig. With the truck off, cycle the key to "run" and "off" three times and watch the odometer window. Sounds like a fuel delivery issue to me. Could be injector(s) or IP issue. Start simple and move ahead. A fuel pressure guage is a must. Clean the IAT sensor and the map sensor with electrical parts cleaner and reinstall. Then get an fp check guage and hook it to the schrader valve on the IP and stick it under your wiper so you can see it while you drive. Just temporary of course til you get an in cab gauge. This will at least let you see the fp at the point of missing. Good luck, kurt


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