jethroish

Just got done installing new master and slave. Maybe a hair better, but still hard to shift.
Have to find some tranny fluid to change that, but I am really thinking something else is the problem here.
When I pulled the old slave, the rod looked burnt a little bit about 1 inch from end. Is that normal?

dozer12216

DAAAAaaam, I'm sorry to hear did not fix. It is so prevalant on posts. If I recall you said it shifted fine with engine not running?
the next step is change fluid I suppose. The other end of potential is a clutch cover or disc not working correctlly or a pilot pearing/bushing in crank is messed up.

jethroish

Found tranny fluid at local dealer for $23 per qt. Drain the tranny. When I refilled it, I was only able to get just over 3 qts before it stared coming out the fill hole. This was done on my level driveway. So I moved the trunk in the shallow ditch where I was able to fill it a little more. But total I was only able to get about 3.8qts in. How can I get more in?

After new fluid, I drove it around the neighborhood. It did seem to shift a little smoother, but still very hard to get reverse.
Tranny man is out of town for another week. I just pray it is not going to be a rebuild. Just can't swing that right now.

DIESELWRKS

I assume you have a 6 speed nv5600 next time you can get a cheaper fluid redline MTL 9-11.00 a qt. what I have done is use the top bolt of the PTO cover to get the extra oil in. or remove the shifter housing it self in the cab and pour down into.

jethroish

Nope. I have the 5 speed NV4500.

FFmike

Just went through similar issue with my 5spd. Almost plowed into my garage door with both clutch and brake pedal mashed to the floor before my brain clicked to turn the ignition off. Master or slave cylinder went out and could not disengage clutch to get out of gear, or in for that matter as I later found out. Replaced with new complete setup and still had issue. Changed out old with new Castrol Syntorq and although got better at first, still had some difficulty. After using for a few days, all was good.

Turns out my buddy went through same exact symptoms. His uncle, professional mechanic of 30+ years and now retired but still working on side, said even though we replaced our master/slave units whole, as in one piece setups, they can still not be fully bled, as the vendor would have you believe. He had to further bleed my friend's brand new setup and after that it was like butter. Said mine must have had still had a small air pocket in it that I eventually worked up after using for a while. As he pointed out I was still working the new hydraulics before and after the fluid change and since still had problems that it was not the Syntorq that was the fix, but getting the rest of the air out that did it. Then he added that if synchros are bad, they're bad, and they don't get better with fresh oil.

Dunno, but with age and experience comes knowledge and wisdom. He was right and we're still cruising with no problems or major $$$ spent.

jethroish

Well, based on that, it sounds as if I need to drive around a bit.
As for bleeding, what would be the procedure since there are no bleed valves like on a brake system? And does it "bleed" when depressing the clutch pedal or on the release? I was told that it should be on the release, but...

Thanks for the info, FFmike.

jethroish

Took the truck to the local good-ole-boys tranny shop today. Owner drove the truck and said tranny is fine but clutch is not releasing all the way. Worn pressure plate. Wants $375 for clutch kit (includes resurfacing flywheel) and $200 labor.
If I drop it off tomorrow, I'll get it back Weds.

FFmike

I believe you remove slave from bell, and with resv cap off/loose, work rod in and out a few times by hand from underneath to push air back up. No touching of pedal. But to put slave back into place will take some muscle to get bolts back in, unless you have an extra plastic retaining strap to replace the one that used to be on there that held the rod back.

Just remembered my friends strap never snapped off when he first replaced his hydraulics. His uncle said it was still attached when he was inspecting, which proved the brand new complete setup had air which prevented full travel of slave cylinder rod. After he bled it, the strap popped like it was supposed to first time he pushed the pedal in, and all was good after that.

See if that helps, first. Not sure how many miles are on your old clutch. Last one-ton diesel let me know when pressure plate was going by slipping under heavy load, pulling 32' with backhoe. Got 130k from that clutch and the disc still had lot of meat on it, but diaphram spring fingers had heat marks from weakening, which let the disc slip.

Are you able to stall the engine while standing on the brakes? I wasn't able to before stopping inches from my garage door before killing with the key switch. Otherwise if was a weak clutch it should have slipped.

gadget.35-06

Ever crack a cutch pedal? Bend a throwout fork? Wear the fork pivot ball down to a mushroom? Wear pits from the throwout fork into the bearing carrier?

Done 'em all on my Gen 1.

jethroish

Got the truck back today. New clutch. Mechanic said the pilot bearing was shot and some of the springs on the disk had fallen apart. Otherwise the disk was not worn that bad for 152,000 miles.
Shifts like new.

PaulDaisy

I was going to suggest a shot pilot bearing...