New lift pump needed.
#1
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New lift pump needed.
I guess i am looking for a new lift pump. I was driving home from our farm, and on the turnpike, i looked at the fuel guage, and had 13 psi @2000 rpm. Then we took an earlier exit because of heavy traffic, and while driving though a town, i had just noticed the fuel pressure was on dead 0 psi. So i babied it home, i didn't notice any cutting or poor engine response, keep in mind i really babied it. I get home, and shut it off, and turn the key to see if the guage responds, it does. So i then see if it starts, and it does without any effort. I shut it down, and take out the guage sensor, and install a mechanical guage. Start it up and check, and it too reads 0 psi. Is there anything else that i could be missing that would cause it to read 0 psi, and still run smooth and start easy, like a clogged fuel filter, or guage snubber? Also as the title says, if i need a new pump, what are good, better than stock replacements that are easy on the budget. I don't, and can't spend $600. for a pump. My laid off, unemployed budget can't handle that, but i also don't want to spend $200. now and in a few months for the crappy stocker. Last i new, FASS had a stock replacement for $200. + .Is that still the only decent option for a mor reliable than stock fix? Thanks for the help, and sorry for beating this horse again, but you never know if something new is available.
#3
I went with the FASS DDRP which is the stock replacement. I have no HP upgrades and I like the pump, Mine runs around 17 psi idle and will not pull below 13 psi, even under a very heavy load. I just replaced the IP a few days ago and I really think it is due to the second lift pump I had. The FASS DDRP is pretty easy to install, fairly inexpensive when considering other aftermarkets, and comes with a four year warranty. If you do not plan on any major HP upgrades give it a look.
Pike
Pike
#4
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The IP can run on no fuel pressure for a short period before it it gives out so I would be carefull starting the truck without any pressure at the pump. 300+ for just a LP is better than 1400+ for an IP and LP.
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yeah, i won't start it again untill i figure out the problem, and or put a new pump on. I am hoping that the power service addative helped save the IP too. I will look into the pumps today, got to get this rig going.
#7
I have had years of trouble with this on my '99. 2 factory replacements, 1 Holley Blue and now the Airdog 150. Still the original IP. After spending all this money I discovered one day that the ECU was not putting out the full 12 volts when the pump should be running. More like 6-8 volts at times even with the engine running. Makes me wonder if I really needed all those replacement pumps.
Anyway I also found that if I reset the ECU by disconnecting the batteries the power supplied to the pump would return to 12 volts (or so).
The Airdog is controlled by a relay that seems to trip just fine on the lower ECU output when that happens. Having said that I did have to use a paper clip one day to jump the relay because the ECU was putting out 0 volts. I reset the ECU as above and wired in a bypass switch in case it happens again. So far it has not.
I like the Airdog. Cleans up the engine compartment and came with a nice installation kit. And it maintains a MINIMUM of 15 psi at all times so far...My stockers couldnt do that and even the Blue Holley would drop to 12-13 at times. HTH
Anyway I also found that if I reset the ECU by disconnecting the batteries the power supplied to the pump would return to 12 volts (or so).
The Airdog is controlled by a relay that seems to trip just fine on the lower ECU output when that happens. Having said that I did have to use a paper clip one day to jump the relay because the ECU was putting out 0 volts. I reset the ECU as above and wired in a bypass switch in case it happens again. So far it has not.
I like the Airdog. Cleans up the engine compartment and came with a nice installation kit. And it maintains a MINIMUM of 15 psi at all times so far...My stockers couldnt do that and even the Blue Holley would drop to 12-13 at times. HTH
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#8
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Well today i whent out and bumped the key to get the lift pump to run for the 30 seconds. When i bumped it.....dead quiet. pump was not running. I didn't think to check if it was getting voltage, never crossed my mind that it would be an issue actually. So i ordered a FASS DDRP -02 today, for 275.00 shipped. should be here tomorrow. Comes with a 4 year warrenty, and flows 33% more than stock. I did look at the bd pumps from summitt actually, but they didn't look like they were much better than stock. I just hope that my IP didn't suffer. I will check voltage when i do the install. Question on the new FASS, Is it still ok to mount it in the original location? Or should this one still be located on the frame? It says original factory location mounting, but that doesn't always mean it's a good idea.
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Lost the lift pump in my '02. Actually caught it while doing other maintenance, so did not have to worry about the injector pump (already replaced, under warranty, luckliy). I put in a FASS DDRP and could not be happier with it. If I was going to do more to the truck, I would put in the FASS system that replaces the factory setup.
#10
I mounted mine to the original location, seems to be happy there. With a 4 year warranty I am really not too worried about it.
Pike
I could never figure out how to test my IP when My lift pump failed, just a wait and see deal for me. I had to wait about 3 months and some hot weather for my first dead pedal.
Pike
I could never figure out how to test my IP when My lift pump failed, just a wait and see deal for me. I had to wait about 3 months and some hot weather for my first dead pedal.
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ok, so now i'm getting ******. It's not the pump, i guess it's the ecm. there is o volts at the pump connector, and there is 12.5 volts at the relay. I switched relays, and still nothing. So i ruled out the relay, the pump is the new one from FASS. I assume it is the ecm that is bolted to the drivers side engine block? What is the best way to go about replacing it. There are rebuilt ones on the net, that you exchange for, there are some used ones out of wrecked trucks. Any way to go thats better?
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ok, so now i'm getting ******. It's not the pump, i guess it's the ecm. there is o volts at the pump connector, and there is 12.5 volts at the relay. I switched relays, and still nothing. So i ruled out the relay, the pump is the new one from FASS. I assume it is the ecm that is bolted to the drivers side engine block? What is the best way to go about replacing it. There are rebuilt ones on the net, that you exchange for, there are some used ones out of wrecked trucks. Any way to go thats better?
you could wire the fuel pump thru a relay and have it turn on with the key in the run posn, not safest way as if in acciedent the ECM would turn the fuel pump off if the engine dies or was shut off.
I dont think ECM's are cheap unless you find one from a salvage yard or from a forum member.
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