I replaced my lift pump about 3-4 weeks ago due to some hesitation and a code 216 found.
cleared ecm when job was done and now with the key off and on thing on the odometer I get a
1693, 1694, and a 216 again...

Should I assume the IP is dead or dying?
Thanks

 

YES!
(10 character limit)

 

Confirmed.
Not dead (you'd be stranded) but dying.
Drive in the right lane. Find a good source for a VP44. When you do post here so I can write it down but I think I got my mind set on a blue chip (thank GOd my IP is still Ok, knock on wood...)
-P

 

Usually a good sign of a dying VP44 will show up when you perform this test:
With truck in neutral or park plant your foot on the accelerator and let off...If the truck studders and blows white smoke or feels like it is jumping timing then the pump is BAD!

 

I will try that this afternoon - thanks!

 

and I have to say, that was not all that bad. It took me exactly 2 hours to get it out from start to finish... Putting it back in was a little longer but it all went well. I highly recomend that special little $50.00 gear puller that blue chip sells... worked great and took less than 2 minutes to put it on and pop the shaft loose. Definitley worht the money.

I noticed that one helpful tip to consider that I never found published anywhere is to maybe pre tighten the #4 injector nozzle line BEFORE you put the grid heater and intake horn back on. I know that kinda defeats the purpose of bleeding the lines but once that is on there is no good way to get to the nozzle bolt... I ground up a 3/4 open end wrench to get in there but that killed a good 45 mins between grinding and checking and grinding and checking... but it all worked out...

almost lost the key off the shaft putting the IP back in place. It fell out and laid right on the inside edge of the timing cover!! was maybe a 1/4" from falling down in the timing cover... that would have made for a bad eveing... was able to grab it with a magnet. I lucked out...

Drove it last night... no dead pedal, and it instantly felt like a new truck (new for 125k miles on it) ran much better, more power... I am very happy.

Also... can someone tell me what that line is that comes out fo the FRONT of where the IP shaft is?? It looks like a breather that you have to grab with a big strap wrench (that is what I did) and tyhe line goes down to a another container and mine leaks like crazy and is making a huge mess. Can someone tell me what that is so I know how to look it up to buy one? I am guessing I need to replace mine.

Thanks to everyone who helped me diagnose this and for all the troubleshooting you guys helped me with!

 

i think the line you are talking about is a breather tube that every one extends so it doesnt make a mess and you dont smell the oil fumes after an oil change

 

So did you go with the BlueChip IP?
That must be the breather tube, that makes oily mess. Does some on mine, and I don't have a container on its end, just loose tube hanging down. I figured, will help prevent rust...
-P

 

I concur. You mean the breather tube and "puke bottle" that should be checked/emptied periodically. I did as mentioned above -- tossed the bottle, used a double male 3/4" hose barb coupler, and added a length of nylon reinforced clear tubing to the stabilizer bar. No more mess sprayed on the back of the radiator, and no more bruised knuckles getting at that stupid bottle!! Others have extended the line from the top, back across the top of the engine, and down again by the tranny/bellhousing, to prevent any oil from escaping while traveling/parking on a steep incline. To each his own, but eliminating the bottle some which way is awesome!!

 

Actually, no. I went with one from dieselfulinjctionservice.com
They had rebuilt Bosch's for 1000.00
Thought I would save my money, it runs great now!

so I can just run the tube down? that might make less of a mess then. Thanks!

 

Can I ask - why dont you have a FP gauge?