Last week I had to replace my lp, it just quit pumping fuel.

I did that with a carter replacement.

Then It still would not start after sitting a while, unless I bled some air out of the fuel filter first.

So, I started around 2 in the afternoon yesterday, and finished around 4 this afternoon.

I Dropped the tank, three of the four bolts holding a frame cross member broke off, one came out. make sure to diconect fuel fill line and electrical connection. I just cut the hard plastic connecting lines from tank to frame.

Took the sending unit off, repaired the float assembly, using the posted fix with a new nut and spring confabulation from this board, Many thanks to that person, cant remember off hand who, sorry.

Cleaned out the tank, had to solder new line to the bung coming out of the top. Mine was completely rusted and broke off with just a touch. Some of the older ones are all plastic, and i belive the new ones are plastic as well.

No need for a new sender, big bucks, Just grind off the remaining rusty bits down flat to the bung. ream out the old lines just a bit to clean em up, stick new brake line with a flared end and a tight bend and solder them shut. I pre soldered the line before i stuck in into the old line.

Then using the posted fix, repair the slop in the float arm with a new pin and spring.

reasemble the tank unit, 1/4 id fuel line slips tightly on the return line and is held with two clamps on each end.

I went to a Hydraulics supply store, Parker Hose and Fitting Store, got a 10'and 5' piece of 3/8 " Push-Lock hose, a fitting to go into both side of the LP with hose barbs.

These are great, a little thread sealant, turn the fitting into LP tight, measure the hose and just push it on the bard. It will NOT come off, good for over 1000 psi. I'v had it on my truck, from filter to VP for a couple of years, no degradation watsoever.

The fittings are called FJIC on the invoice, can provide part numbers if anyone wants them.

Took a pice of angle Iron mouted the LP to it and it to the Frame rail, outside under extended cab.

Extened the electrical connections.

Had to drill and tap the bolt holes holding the frame cross piece cause the bolts broke. and the frame is boxed in that area.

The brake line to the rear wheels was rusty, so I bent up a new one.

In summary.... dropped tank and fixed sending unit

relocate the LP closer to tank on frame rail.

Replaced brake line.

Not much but it took me forever. I could never be a machanic, but i love tinkering with my own stuff.. I did not see any change in pressure with the mods, and I dont think the LP primed any faster, I did notice some improved power with this new LP, waiting to see what the milage dose.

Thanks again to all those that posted thier info. It seams we all have the same problems, at least we dont have to leave it up to dealer to solve the problems with more problems.....

 

Great post!

 

Firearm. Did you get a Carter pump with M12 x 1.5 threads or the P4601HP with the 3/8" pipe threads? The JIC in the FJIC indicates a 37 degree flare fitting, I don't see its relevance if you are using push-lock with barb fittings. So what is the part number of the fittings and also post information on them if you have any. Thanks.

 

I got an exact replacement pump, did not know I had any option.

I Posted pics of the install in my gallery

Part numbers, from the Parker Store....

00 801-6-Blue, Hose, you can get diferent colors if you want.. A 10' piece from the Filter to the LP, leaves enough to add an under hood press gauge and replace the line from the filter to the VP. A 5' Piece goes from the LP to the Fuel tank, with some slack for lowering the tank.

These two made up the connection on the IN side of the Pump.
00 30682-6-6b, fitting, FJIC Swivel, Brass
21 9067-06-12, Male JIC X Male Metric

These two made up the connection on the OUT side of the pump.
21 9067-06-12, Male JIC X Male Metric
00 33982-6-6, fitting, FJIC Swivel, 90 Degree, if you need one, I already had it from the original LP location so I tilted the pump in the new location so I could re use it..Otherwise get the Swivel fitting from above..

If you would like to add a tee for Pressure gauge installs or testing.
00 2203p-6, Brass, FNPT TEE
00 209p-6-4 Brass, NPT Bushing
00 219p-6 Brass sunken Hex Plug, omit if you will be adding a gauge here.
00 30182-6-6 Fitting Male NPT, pushlock fitting leaving Tee (2) or (3) per tee, depending on if you are installing a gauge here.

Connection to Fuel Filter, from Filter, To VP, To LP and from LP
21 9067-06-12 Male JIC X Male Metric, This fitting replaces the Banjo bolts,
Then you can add
00 30182-6-6 swivel, or 003682-6-6B 90 Degree, depending on which direction you need to run the hose

Fuel Pressure Gauge: Get the presure gauge, oil filled from a farm supply store, 0-30psi take that with you and get appropriate fittings from the tee to the gauge, you can use smaller hose here because there is no flow. I would have no problem running this into the cab, and I will be once I figure a place to mount the gauge. It will be the pre VP pressure, and the pre fuel filter guage will remain under the hood.

The store I got the parts from was Brantford Hydraulics or www.brantfordhydraulics.com

The first time I only got enough to replace the lines from the Fuel filter to the Vp and the LP to the Fuel filter with Tee's. They gave me a 25% discount. This time I got enought to relocate the LP and I got a 55% discount.

The guy told me they give out variouse discounts becouse they have only one price list for Canada and USA, and this way it makes it easier?????

So If you get these products, try to get a good discount, If you have any sort of buisness I would think you may even get better than I did.

 

Thanks for the info.

 

If you ever had to do this again get the P4601HP pump for $94. This pump is half the price of the OEM pump and is available from Summit Racing. I use this pump on my truck. It works well, I get 12psi at WOT., 16psi at idle. It is the exact same pump as the OEM except for the threads. It is simpler to use this with pushlock, it can be done with just one fitting, MPT x barb. In your case you went from M12 to JIC and then to a barb.