RustyJC

Ummmm.....perhaps that's because I have a 2nd generation truck. My dealer hasn't seen my truck since I took delivery - I change my own oil (API CI-4 rated Delo 400 15W-40 - dino oil works fine for my operating profile).

Rusty

infidel

ExxonMobil oils that meet the API CI-4 specification are: XD-3 Elite 15W-40, Exxon XD-3 Extra 15W-40, Mobil Delvac 1300 Super 15W-40 and Mobil Delvac 1 5W-40
http://www.exxonmobil.com/Corporate/...r_100804_1.asp

Racnmasn1

Sounds great Rusty, can you tell us what oil you are using?


You are in agreement that synthetics are a better oil?



All I'm trying to say is - "Cummins loves synthetics" - Runs 5 degrees cooler too!



Racnmasn

RustyJC

I did in my prior post. Delo 400 15W-40 - API CI-4 rated.
Yes, I agree that synthetics have certain advantages over dino oils, but they're not necessarily applicable to every usage profile - such as mine. My other vehicles run synthetics - Mobil 1 10W-30 (wife's Durango 5.9L) and Royal Purple 5W-20 (my Acura 3.2TL-S).

Rusty

Patrick Campbell

I would NOT put Mobil1 in my truck... Delvac1 not Mobil1.

I'm afraid to put synthetic in my truck because I have 160K miles of dino oil in there.... Don't want to cause an oil leak.

CapnRam

Well hell...I was using the Rotella, then switched to the Valvoline, that has the Cummins logo on it...it is a synthetic...in fact i got a bottle in the garage i'll go get it right now...brb..ok its Valvoline Premium Blue Extreme (for diesel engines) 5w-40, on the back is api services ci-4, ch-4,cf/sl.... hope this is alright for these beast...i change my filter every 3000, then when i hit the 9000, i change the oil again...to much...to his his own i guess....this stuff was about 18 a gallon...i did notice a little easier turning over on these cold mornings....it was about 5 this morning....just my input...have a good one.....

DODGE4X4

DIDO

Geico266

I just love these "my oil is better than your oil" threads.



Can we now discuss the what tire pressure we keep in the spare tire?
How about how often to clean the cig lighter element even when we don't smoke?
Or which glass cleaner to use?
How about the finer points of putting Armorall on the dash?
I know, the proper care of the brake peddle rubber pad.

Guys, this subject hurts my head!

Commatoze

Dude, pure and simple: You're using the wrong oil for your 99. The Mobil 1 you're referring to has a CD/CF rating. CF was superseded by CG-4 in 1995. CG-4 remained the oil of choice until 1998 when it was replaced by CH-4. If you have a 99, you should be using API CH-4 oil. CF was formulated for higher sulfur fuels which aren't available any more. It's your truck, so you can use 3in1 if you'd like. We're just offering advice. Take or leave it, either way is fine with me.

bluebull

I run both. In the winter I use 5-40 synthetic and in the summer 15-40 dino oil. I have an answer to why your truck seems to run smoother, it's called viscocity. The 15-50 your using is alot thicker, ever hear of the old engines of yester year running quieter after dumping in STP viscocity improver.

Don't turn this into a synthetic/dino war all everyone is trying to tell you is there is a proper oil recommendation for your application. Check your owners manual, it's all in there.

Most oils of today that are labeled synthetic are not true synthetics, they are super refined mineral based dino oil. Alot of research is needed now days to get the real truth out of all this advertizing crap. It's really turning into a mixed up world, no one is ever for sure what is right anymore,

mysing418

Here is a happy medium for ya! Check out this link...

http://www.rotella.com/products/rote...synthetic.html

Commatoze

I run that in my engine all winter. It makes starting much easier in the low temps we get up here. But Rotella Synthetic (which really isn't a synthetic at all) is API CH-4 rated; Mobil 1 isn't.

infidel

Are you supposed to clean it? Think I've been screwing up.
Go to a Toyota message board sometime, the people there have so few problems all they can do is argue about which air freshener to use.

RDLeader

quote:
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Originally posted by BigBlue
Well, your engine might run smoother and sound better, but I'll stick to my good old fashioned Rotella T. Oil, oil filter, and fuel filter cost me $43. A heckuva a lot cheaper than synthetic. I just can't see dumping $100 worth of oil evey 6k miles. Glad you enjoy it though.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------


Gotta get my 2cents in too........

$43 for the rosmella route

delvac 1 5-40 (11 qts @ $5 =55)
filter $9
fuel filter $11
total cost $75

run it for 30K between changes. You'll change the rotella 5 times (at 6K miles) in that period which equates to $43 x 5 = $215. This is why I run delvac 1 5w-40. Plus, it don't stink!


Roman

HOHN

Those of you who are enslaved to oil specs would be wise to note that the current API spec for diesel is CI-4 PLUS (CI-4+)

Moreover, the -4 just means four stroke (as opposed to a two stroke diesel like a Detroit).

You will NOT necessarily ruin your engine using a gas oil in a diesel. The reason diesels have different forumulations is that this allows them to deal with 1) soot dispersancy, and 2) acid neutralization.

The newer oil formulations have lower TBNs, because the lower-sulphur diesel fuel reduces the strength and amount of crankcase acids formed. Sulphur in fuel leads to sulphuric acid (H2SO4) being formed in the crankcase. The Alkalinity of the oil (reflected in TBN) allows for neutralization of this acid.

Moreover, newer diesel engines develop different levels of soot. The need for soot-dispersant additives is different as technology changes in some cases. For example, the newer engines may tend to make LESS soot, but the amount of soot the LUBRICANT must deal with is often HIGHER-- primarily in designs that utilize cooled EGR (which Cummins does not use).

See: http://www.penrite.com.au/techbullet...I_CI-4PLUS.pdf


At this point, I'll highlight the longer oil change intervals (by a factor of TWO!) of the HPCR trucks relative a second Gen truck-- due NOT from a quantum leap in oil technology, but rather to the cleaner operation of the new HPCR fuel injection system.


As far as viscosity goes, a 50wt oil is likely to be too thick unless you run VERY high engine temps and EGTs. It won't really hurt anything other than fuel economy.

If you are going to run a synthetic, I'd consider a LOWER viscosity, not HIGHER. The superior film strength of synthetic formulations allows a thinner oil for a given level of protection.

Thus, a premium synthetic 10w-30 will most likely protect as well as a dino 15w-40, but allow for faster oil pressure rise and improved fuel economy.



If you want to run an oil that is not specifically designed for the alkalinity and soot dispersancy needs of a diesel, then you'll just have to change it more often. This often defeats the "extended drain" aspect many synthetics claim to offer.

The idea that using a gasoline oil in your CTD spells instant disaster is a little ridiculous and based on fear, not on logic or common sense.

JMHO