Manual hub conversion
#1
Manual hub conversion
I think one of my hubs just went south on me. I haven't had a chance to check it out but only one front wheel turns now.
Question: Is it a PITA or a bunch of $$$ to convert the auto hubs to manual hubs?
Question: Is it a PITA or a bunch of $$$ to convert the auto hubs to manual hubs?
#4
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I don't think my truck has ever spun both fronts: Are you sure this is something new?
I heard something about a cable conversion for the hub engagement (instead of vacuum)...anyone have any details?
Randy.
I heard something about a cable conversion for the hub engagement (instead of vacuum)...anyone have any details?
Randy.
#5
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#6
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The axle shaft on the passenger side is two pieces. There is a vacuum solenoid on the axle tube that moves a shift fork and collar to connect and disconnect that shaft. Sometimes the vacuum will fail so it won't move (usually its disengaged), so you'd be ditching that in favour of some cable operated setup to controlt eh shift fork. The axle shafts are splined in the bearing hubs, so those aren't where the failures occur for not having 4wd, not like the Fords did.
#7
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Hey Tate, where you looking at getting your hub kit from?
I have thought about this, as my hubs aren't bad yet, but I am getting a sound that isn't in the diffs or rear hubs, so it could be one of the hubs going again. I have thought of doing the conversion, we'll just see what the cost is when the dust settles
I have thought about this, as my hubs aren't bad yet, but I am getting a sound that isn't in the diffs or rear hubs, so it could be one of the hubs going again. I have thought of doing the conversion, we'll just see what the cost is when the dust settles
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#8
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emsoffroad.com is where I was gonna get them. I might wait a little bit and see where our dollar goes. Not sure if there are any local places that carry EMS, but it would likely still be cheaper for me to do it myself.
My bearings are still good, but it should help mileage a bit, get rid of a couple weak links, and I love they way a manual hub looks. Sometimes I miss my old Ford 4by.
My bearings are still good, but it should help mileage a bit, get rid of a couple weak links, and I love they way a manual hub looks. Sometimes I miss my old Ford 4by.
#9
#10
3 days ago I could get in and out of my driveway covered with 14" of snow. 2 days ago I couldn't. I can't tell exactly whats going on but one tire is grabbing a lot harder than the other.
#11
The axle shaft on the passenger side is two pieces. There is a vacuum solenoid on the axle tube that moves a shift fork and collar to connect and disconnect that shaft. Sometimes the vacuum will fail so it won't move (usually its disengaged), so you'd be ditching that in favour of some cable operated setup to controlt eh shift fork. The axle shafts are splined in the bearing hubs, so those aren't where the failures occur for not having 4wd, not like the Fords did.
#12
I heard something about a cable conversion for the hub engagement (instead of vacuum)...anyone have any details?
The 4x4 light is switched by the CAD so it sounds like your axle is engaging.
http://www.4x4wire.com/dodge/tech/solid_axle_cad/
#13
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With an open diff (which is what will be in your front axle unless someone changed it to a posi), if the CAD is disengaged, the front wheels will receive NO power, regardless if the t-case is in 4wd. The passenger side axle shaft will free spin, so no power will be transfered to the driver side wheel. If one tire is biting more than the other, you're looking at traction issues.
#14
With an open diff (which is what will be in your front axle unless someone changed it to a posi), if the CAD is disengaged, the front wheels will receive NO power, regardless if the t-case is in 4wd. The passenger side axle shaft will free spin, so no power will be transfered to the driver side wheel. If one tire is biting more than the other, you're looking at traction issues.
Either way, she's got a date with the dealer on the 5th and we'll see.