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Manual hub conversion

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Old 12-26-2008, 01:24 PM
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Manual hub conversion

I think one of my hubs just went south on me. I haven't had a chance to check it out but only one front wheel turns now.

Question: Is it a PITA or a bunch of $$$ to convert the auto hubs to manual hubs?
Old 12-26-2008, 02:41 PM
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What kind of truck do you have? Perhaps you have a vac leak or a bad CAD. Does your 4x4 light come on?
Old 12-26-2008, 02:44 PM
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EMS kits are $1000, thats my plan for later in the new year.
Old 12-26-2008, 11:14 PM
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I don't think my truck has ever spun both fronts: Are you sure this is something new?

I heard something about a cable conversion for the hub engagement (instead of vacuum)...anyone have any details?

Randy.
Old 12-27-2008, 12:29 AM
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Originally Posted by Beer_Studd_76
I think one of my hubs just went south on me. I haven't had a chance to check it out but only one front wheel turns now.
Without a traction aid that's all that will happen. Perfectly normal.
Old 12-27-2008, 12:30 AM
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The axle shaft on the passenger side is two pieces. There is a vacuum solenoid on the axle tube that moves a shift fork and collar to connect and disconnect that shaft. Sometimes the vacuum will fail so it won't move (usually its disengaged), so you'd be ditching that in favour of some cable operated setup to controlt eh shift fork. The axle shafts are splined in the bearing hubs, so those aren't where the failures occur for not having 4wd, not like the Fords did.
Old 12-27-2008, 01:04 AM
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Hey Tate, where you looking at getting your hub kit from?

I have thought about this, as my hubs aren't bad yet, but I am getting a sound that isn't in the diffs or rear hubs, so it could be one of the hubs going again. I have thought of doing the conversion, we'll just see what the cost is when the dust settles
Old 12-27-2008, 01:20 AM
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emsoffroad.com is where I was gonna get them. I might wait a little bit and see where our dollar goes. Not sure if there are any local places that carry EMS, but it would likely still be cheaper for me to do it myself.

My bearings are still good, but it should help mileage a bit, get rid of a couple weak links, and I love they way a manual hub looks. Sometimes I miss my old Ford 4by.
Old 12-27-2008, 03:18 AM
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Originally Posted by PChouinard
What kind of truck do you have? Perhaps you have a vac leak or a bad CAD. Does your 4x4 light come on?

She's a '99 3500. The light comes on and I figured out that the 4WD sorta works on the flat but completely gives up on the hills.
Old 12-27-2008, 03:21 AM
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Originally Posted by Western Rammer
I don't think my truck has ever spun both fronts: Are you sure this is something new?

I heard something about a cable conversion for the hub engagement (instead of vacuum)...anyone have any details?

Randy.
3 days ago I could get in and out of my driveway covered with 14" of snow. 2 days ago I couldn't. I can't tell exactly whats going on but one tire is grabbing a lot harder than the other.
Old 12-27-2008, 03:22 AM
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Originally Posted by Tate
The axle shaft on the passenger side is two pieces. There is a vacuum solenoid on the axle tube that moves a shift fork and collar to connect and disconnect that shaft. Sometimes the vacuum will fail so it won't move (usually its disengaged), so you'd be ditching that in favour of some cable operated setup to controlt eh shift fork. The axle shafts are splined in the bearing hubs, so those aren't where the failures occur for not having 4wd, not like the Fords did.
So chances are the hub itself is OK?
Old 12-27-2008, 07:30 AM
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I heard something about a cable conversion for the hub engagement (instead of vacuum)...anyone have any details?
http://www.4x4posi-lok.com/

The 4x4 light is switched by the CAD so it sounds like your axle is engaging.
http://www.4x4wire.com/dodge/tech/solid_axle_cad/
Old 12-27-2008, 09:26 AM
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Originally Posted by Beer_Studd_76
3 days ago I could get in and out of my driveway covered with 14" of snow. 2 days ago I couldn't. I can't tell exactly whats going on but one tire is grabbing a lot harder than the other.
With an open diff (which is what will be in your front axle unless someone changed it to a posi), if the CAD is disengaged, the front wheels will receive NO power, regardless if the t-case is in 4wd. The passenger side axle shaft will free spin, so no power will be transfered to the driver side wheel. If one tire is biting more than the other, you're looking at traction issues.
Old 12-27-2008, 10:24 AM
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Originally Posted by Tate
With an open diff (which is what will be in your front axle unless someone changed it to a posi), if the CAD is disengaged, the front wheels will receive NO power, regardless if the t-case is in 4wd. The passenger side axle shaft will free spin, so no power will be transfered to the driver side wheel. If one tire is biting more than the other, you're looking at traction issues.
That doesn't explain why I could get in and out of my driveway before (with absolutely no problem) and now I'm stopped cold.

Either way, she's got a date with the dealer on the 5th and we'll see.
Old 12-28-2008, 03:10 PM
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Thanks!

Thanks for the link PC!

Randy.


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