Losing antifreeze outta the side of the block!!
#16
I've read about boths sides of fixing the issue. 1. Yes, it's possible to weld (lock-n-stitch) the block. Some have had this process hold well, others not. 2. Replace the engine w/a non-53 block. The second seems to be more of a long-term way to fix it correctly. Good Luck with either decision and keep us posted.
#20
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Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 311
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From: Latham, Missouri and now Goshen, Indiana
ok yea, i wanna check around but il def pm you bout your block. but for the immediate time being, where did you get this dyke stuff? i just wanna stop leak for a lil til i have time to get me a block or get it fixed..
#21
http://www.qmimo.com/dike.htm
#22
Ok here is the deal. I am currently running a cracked 53 block. It was first repaired with the LOCK N STITCH method. Don't wast your tiime! Fortunatly I had a friend who owns a welding shop. He welded it while the engine was still in the truck, said it was one of the hardest block weld jobs he has done. Problably 12 hours of welding, welded down the crack then welded a plate over that and replaced one freeze plug with a rubber one. I get a little antifreeze seepage out of the verticle welds but no big deal. The main thing is to remember that when you weld on something like this you are dealing with contaminated metal and it would be near impossible to make a perfect seal. I deal with mine because after the welding the leak is only about a gallon every 6 weeks, at 450 miles a week.
#23
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Joined: Dec 2007
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From: North Carolina or Kentucky. Take your pick
really, don't waste money on lock n stich. A few hold but not many. some sealer might be a very short term repair. Replace block is long term fix. See block for sale.
#24
I have an HO that had a 53 block. My block didn't crack but I am pretty modded so I replaced it when I had it apart. If you want a used 53 block (with no crack) let me know. Love to get it out of my barn.
#25
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 311
Likes: 0
From: Latham, Missouri and now Goshen, Indiana
Ok here is the deal. I am currently running a cracked 53 block. It was first repaired with the LOCK N STITCH method. Don't wast your tiime! Fortunatly I had a friend who owns a welding shop. He welded it while the engine was still in the truck, said it was one of the hardest block weld jobs he has done. Problably 12 hours of welding, welded down the crack then welded a plate over that and replaced one freeze plug with a rubber one. I get a little antifreeze seepage out of the verticle welds but no big deal. The main thing is to remember that when you weld on something like this you are dealing with contaminated metal and it would be near impossible to make a perfect seal. I deal with mine because after the welding the leak is only about a gallon every 6 weeks, at 450 miles a week.
#26
Yea, some people can't believe that antifreeze leaking from the engine block can be tolerable but after the way it leaked when it first cracked, I feel like its no big deal at all. I try to let it cool off by letting it idle for a while before I shut it down, I figure the slower contraction or expansion of the block and it won't want to crack the welds. Just my theory. I also do not believe that any power adders will interfere with it, power adders don't have a direct affect on block temp. Unless there is no antifreeze to begin with, ha ,ha.
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