PChouinard

My vp had been losing prime every morning and recently every afternoon. On advice from another thread, I started clamping the rubber portion of my fuel line (just before the vp) with vice grips when I park. I just left my truck for 4 days and it started right up after removing the vice grips. So now is this a vp issue or a vp check valve issue? I read somewhere that someone had installed an in-line check valve in the fuel line and thier problem went away. Does anyone know a part number or a specific type of inline check valve for this application. I know it's a bailing wire and duct tape fix but I need to do for now.

the_fox_man4

my metal hard lines the high pressure lines leaked causeing this same problem, there was never a drip just a slow seap take a look at all your metal lines and injector. I would also take a look at the feed tube o rings for the injectors.

mbfarms

Also check your tank module. That year model truck I think still has the steel fittings on top of the module and those can rust causing a leak on the return side. That could be another possibility.

PChouinard

I do have a hell of a leak around my fuel heater that seems to be getting worse. I wonder if this may be the root of my problms...

nitrousn

If you have a leak fix it. Fix whats obvious and the other problem may go away. If it leaks it can draw air in and cause problems.

SuperDave4x4

Mine does the same thing and has been driving me crazy for over the past month. I installed the Vulcan Draw straw and that didn't help with my hard start at all.

I searched and searched and posted and I still haven't figured it out. There is a check valve on the return line coming out of the VP that may be giving you trouble. I'm going to order one soon to see if that helps any thing. If that doesn't do anything I'm gonna order some new 1/2" fuels lines and then some new injector tube orings. And if none of that fixes it I'm gonna run this thing off a cliff.

PChouinard

Have you done the clamp on the fuel line trick? It seems to be working for me but it's a pain to go under the hood everytime. Handy anti theft device also.

SuperDave4x4

No, I haven't actually because this is the first time I'd ever heard about doing this. Seems like a good idea. The part number for the return line check valve is 3941156 and from what I've read they should be in the $20-25 dollar range.


Have you tried parking you truck facing down a slope? I've noticed that if I do this it will crank up fine.

PChouinard

No slopes around Phoenix/Mesa AZ area to park on. I just pulled that check valve and it seems to be ok. I'm willing to bet it has been the fuel heater the whole time and it is just now getting wors.

SuperDave4x4

Hmm I just noticed that yours is a 99 also. I wonder if we are having the exact same problem. Also how could you tell that the check valve was working because I need to check mine. Oh and I've been debating on ditching the stock fuel filter houseing and getting some screw on filters and mounting them by my pump back by the tank.

PChouinard

I just pulled the 19mm banjo off the vp and checked the ball and spring with a small phillips screwdriver.

PChouinard

Here's the worst part. While under the hood I noticed a crack in my exhaust manifold and a missing manifold bolt and spacer. 423$$ worth of parts. Man I tell you it never ends

SuperDave4x4

Did you get a stock manifold or a HTT one?

PChouinard

Niether. I bought the bolt and spacer to aviod further damage but the manifold is still on and still cracked. I should have some more $$ to buy a three piece manifold after I finish remodeling the house. I was looking at this one,http://www.drivetrain.com/dodgeexhau...stmanifold.htm
Any input? My truck is stock other than a K&N air filter so this will be my first upgrade for the most part...

REF>Lancer

Check and see on E-Bay,was just cruzin it and it seemed like I saw one wayyyy cheaper,3pc..