Lift Pump Victory!
#16
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Do ya'll get as mad as I get having to do the "extra" stuff having to cover for sloppy enginering on Dodge's part?
Anyway to my question, I am new to these problems with the cummins, 1/where did you mount your pressure gauge ?
2/ where did it hook up to get it's reading?
3/electric or mechanical gauge?
Thanks,
Anyway to my question, I am new to these problems with the cummins, 1/where did you mount your pressure gauge ?
2/ where did it hook up to get it's reading?
3/electric or mechanical gauge?
Thanks,
#17
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Hey guys and Dolls, you dont need any of that Holly stuff and you dont need bigger lines and fittings, get a kit from Glacier in Spokane, its a Walbro GS392 inline pump with a regulator (cause the GS392 can put out 100 PSI) regulate it at 15 to 20 PSI,use all original lines except add a return line from the regulator back to the filler inlet on the tank and your done.Remove the original pump on the motor,connect the original inlet line that went to the pump to the inlet of the fuel filter,mount your Walbro GS392 down along the frame,cut the pickup line that comes from the tank that the original pump was using,cut about 14 inches out of it,this will give you plenty of room to mount the Walbeo GS393 and regulator in between, connect the Walbro to the fuel line with a piece of hose,then a short piece of hose to the regulator,then another short piece of hose from regulator to the fuel line that goes up to filter,then a 4 ft hose from return outlet of regulator back to tank, use the wire that fed the original pump to trigger a relay,this relay will power up the GS392 and everything will work exactly like it did before.Contrary to popular belief,you do not need the regulator mounted up by the VP 44,so you do not have to cut or splice lines there,this setup will give you who knows how many trouble free miles,I have run mine for over 60,000 miles now and never misses a beat, should last the life of truck as the Walbro is only running 1/5 of capacity.and its quiet as a mouse,cant hear it running. I use a 0 to 30 psi mechanical fuel gauge, connected to the test port on the VP 44 with a 1/16 black plastic truck airline , good for 250 PSI, no trouble in the 6 years running.
2001.5 4X4 2500 Quad cab sb.auto.
2001.5 4X4 2500 Quad cab sb.auto.
#18
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Originally Posted by pull-do
Do ya'll get as mad as I get having to do the "extra" stuff having to cover for sloppy enginering on Dodge's part?
Anyway to my question, I am new to these problems with the cummins, 1/where did you mount your pressure gauge ?
2/ where did it hook up to get it's reading?
3/electric or mechanical gauge?
Thanks,
Anyway to my question, I am new to these problems with the cummins, 1/where did you mount your pressure gauge ?
2/ where did it hook up to get it's reading?
3/electric or mechanical gauge?
Thanks,
2. Where to hook up the gauge at... Bottom of fuel filter...
3. I highly suggest mechincal gauges and no isolators... Just use a needle valve like shown to dampen pulse or to shutdown the system if the gauge or line fails...
#19
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Originally Posted by Mopar1973man
1. This is where to mount the gauges...
2. Where to hook up the gauge at... Bottom of fuel filter...
3. I highly suggest mechincal gauges and no isolators... Just use a needle valve like shown to dampen pulse or to shutdown the system if the gauge or line fails...
2. Where to hook up the gauge at... Bottom of fuel filter...
3. I highly suggest mechincal gauges and no isolators... Just use a needle valve like shown to dampen pulse or to shutdown the system if the gauge or line fails...
Thanks for the info--------
Did you do the install yourself?
Wonder why cummins didn't provide lubrication for the pump like the old 12 valve motors---kinda like the old sayin " if it ain't broke, don't fix it"
#21
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Originally Posted by pull-do
Do ya'll get as mad as I get having to do the "extra" stuff having to cover for sloppy enginering on Dodge's part?
All this discussion about fuel pressures on the 24v has been going on for 6 years now. If lack of pressure is the main culprit in killing VP44s, the problem would have been resolved back then. It is amazing to me how long this myth has been kept alive.
#22
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Originally Posted by pull-do
Thanks for the info--------
Did you do the install yourself?
Wonder why cummins didn't provide lubrication for the pump like the old 12 valve motors---kinda like the old sayin " if it ain't broke, don't fix it"
Did you do the install yourself?
Wonder why cummins didn't provide lubrication for the pump like the old 12 valve motors---kinda like the old sayin " if it ain't broke, don't fix it"
They did... It's called diesel fuel... Some of us got smart though and started dumping 2 cycle oil in the fuel...
#23
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Originally Posted by Mopar1973man
Yes Sir! I did. It took about a day to do all the drilling and tapping, wiring, etc. Not hard at all just time consuming... I think I spent more time chasing the odd tools I needed...
They did... It's called diesel fuel... Some of us got smart though and started dumping 2 cycle oil in the fuel...
They did... It's called diesel fuel... Some of us got smart though and started dumping 2 cycle oil in the fuel...
That sounds like a good idea, how much are you putting in per tank full?
Does it affect the injectors since it seems to be a little thicker?
#25
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As soon as I installed my Vulcan big line kit, and moved the pump back near the tank my pressure improved also. It was really cool to see at w.o.t., my pressure almost holding steady. I could not believe it. Idle psi went up by about 1.5 pounds.
Later, I pulled the tank, got rid of that fine mesh screen in the tank, I suppose that's DC's primary filter, which can eventually clog up, and added Vulcans new tank fitting and pick-up tube (all 1/2"). I switched the return line over to what used to be the supply line (bigger) too.
I noticed a small improvement in psi with adding this additional larger pick-up tube. The biggest advantage, I think, is not only better flow, but, the fact of removing that fine mesh screen in the tank. I 've had that stuff clog up and no way to change it out, so I added a big water seperating primary filter before the stock lift pump. With this, I lost about .5 psi adding this filter.
I think in the case of the vp drawing off what it needs, pumping flow/ pressures up against this vp draw, will reflect improved pressures while improving flow.
Later, I pulled the tank, got rid of that fine mesh screen in the tank, I suppose that's DC's primary filter, which can eventually clog up, and added Vulcans new tank fitting and pick-up tube (all 1/2"). I switched the return line over to what used to be the supply line (bigger) too.
I noticed a small improvement in psi with adding this additional larger pick-up tube. The biggest advantage, I think, is not only better flow, but, the fact of removing that fine mesh screen in the tank. I 've had that stuff clog up and no way to change it out, so I added a big water seperating primary filter before the stock lift pump. With this, I lost about .5 psi adding this filter.
I think in the case of the vp drawing off what it needs, pumping flow/ pressures up against this vp draw, will reflect improved pressures while improving flow.
#26
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Well let me throw 5 cents to the pile...
I'm using a Vulcan Big Line Kit which happens to be 1/2" fuel line from the tank to the VP44. I've measured the stock steel lines and they measure down to about 6mm. Too darn small for these engines...
Then I dumped the stock LP pump out... Then ordered a Carter campaign pump. Mounted it as close as I could to the tank.
Now I'm seeing 15.0 @ idle and 13.0 @ WOT which in my book isn't bad at all. 2 PSI loss for WOT is good... Now if the pump weaken over time and my WOT pressure drops to 10.0 I'll be pulling this pump out and replacing it... Being I only paid $46.90 for the Campaign pump from Cummins.
I'm using a Vulcan Big Line Kit which happens to be 1/2" fuel line from the tank to the VP44. I've measured the stock steel lines and they measure down to about 6mm. Too darn small for these engines...
Then I dumped the stock LP pump out... Then ordered a Carter campaign pump. Mounted it as close as I could to the tank.
Now I'm seeing 15.0 @ idle and 13.0 @ WOT which in my book isn't bad at all. 2 PSI loss for WOT is good... Now if the pump weaken over time and my WOT pressure drops to 10.0 I'll be pulling this pump out and replacing it... Being I only paid $46.90 for the Campaign pump from Cummins.
If I'm the dummy here then I appologize.
Maybe just one pump,I admit to being easy to confuse...
#27
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I think the Banjo bolts may be the bigger restriction. I know of no one who likes them. The moving the LP to the back & larger lines, no Banjo bolts are probably the main advatage.
I just did mine, 13 idle, 10 or a shade under for WOT. I can live with that & $60 camapign kits. Vulcan also provies a nice port for the FP gauge.
NAPA has a copper kit line that works nicely wihout a needle valve. It is small enough that there is no flutter in the needle.
I just did mine, 13 idle, 10 or a shade under for WOT. I can live with that & $60 camapign kits. Vulcan also provies a nice port for the FP gauge.
NAPA has a copper kit line that works nicely wihout a needle valve. It is small enough that there is no flutter in the needle.
#29
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#30
copper fuel lines?
is there a negative side to running copper for your fuel lines? i have some soft 1/2" just laying around. besides the outside getting dirty. would there be any problem with the fuel eating the line/ electrolisis etc? if not i think i found next weekends project!