JEric

I just had my 2nd LP replace under warranty. Did the VP44, APPS & LP at 76k. Learned the hardway and put in a fp guage.

2nd LP worked ok and steady for about 3-4 months then began having issues. Ran TSB checks and it would show ok and might perk up a bit but then off again. Finally got below redline.

I have been monitoring my fp using a DiPricol guage with isolator.

2nd pump was still in warranty and Dodge dealer put the intank retro kit 5715538-AA in. Just picked the truck up with the retrokit in. FP Idle 7-8 psi. Was able to get it down to 5 psi with moderate acceleration. Havn't tried WOT yet or highway speed cruise yet.

I'm assuming that there could be some expectations of differences in the operation and pressures between the 2 pumps.

Does anyone know what the spec's are and should be on the retro kit? What are/have been experiences with the in-tank retro kit.

Paranoid about fp, vp44, etc!!!

Mopar1973man

There is a TSB for the retro kit...

Basically it said that to ignore the pressure reading... Because the in tank pump was weaker. I've heard of a few people 0 PSI really easy!

"I'm my own warranty station: Say it again...

I won't get one of those pumps... My next will be a holley blue...

JEric

Thanks for the reply. I'll look up the TSB for info. I love the way Dodge dodges the issue on this. "Ignore the pressure" when the pressure and fuel delivery to the ip is the whole issue.

I probably wouldn't have done this but since it was warranty it's their money. Had some issues getting them to recognize that the 2nd one was on it's way out but I have to say the service manager took care of the issue once we had a heart-to-heart on it.

I'm looking in the FASS direction. Any ideas for more sources on min input's to the ip, etc. Piers indicates that 5psi is where you can start hurting the ip.

yarddog

I just got the intank pump recently and I'm worried about it too. I don't have a gauge yet so I don't know what the FP is. I can tell you it flows like mad. I lost prime and had to bleed the filter canister. Needless to say it spewed a massive amount of diesel before I could get the lid on tight. I'm saving pennies for an F1 cam for the 1st gen mechanical pump. It's $500 more than the FASS but worth it. IMO it's the only permanant lift pump fix. The mechanical pump is designed to go 350K before rebuild.

The problem now is I can't just run hoses from the tank pick up to the new pump because of the intank pump. I wouldn't want any pump to pull fuel through another non working pump. The dealer wouldn't let me keep the old tank pick up assembly. He said it all need to go back to DC for failure anaylsis

I'll probably have to convert it to a bottom feed.

CapnRam

I installed the Vulcan relocation kit for the lp, pressure was 13-15, then lost the lp, so installed the Holley blue pump, i run 12 at all times, its mounted right in front of the fuel tank, easy install and no problems with psi...

427AC

Can You Tell Me Where You Got The Holley Fuel Pump? I Need To Get One In Begore I Lose The Factory Lift Pump And Cook The Injection Pump

P.J

www.jegs.com

I have been researching the holley pumps, they have some good info on them.

You can also search here, just put in "Holley Blue", plenty of people gone that route.

P.J

You mean 12 at WOT too? I have a stock pump (aprox 5K miles old) I run 15 idle, 13.5-14.5 cruise and havent seen lower than 12 WOT.

This is with a big line line kit on a basically stock truck.

Mike Holmen

The best fix is to run the old style cummins mechanical pump with a pressure regulator on it set about 25psi. The Fass system works well and its out lived one VP on my truck. I can pull mine pressure down to 12-13psi on wot. Its hard to look under wot. I have put in a 1/2 line that I got made up at a hydraulic shop. I hate leaky fuel lines. I have about 16psi at idle. The original LP and holley pumps are a good for a year or so. VP are a a short life device, if you run a wire to the pump. You can tell when you put in a new pump on the first drive. The acceleration is cleaner and crisper. The truck will have more power. I've run two VP in 4 years in 100000miles. This is with running the drag box. Its about a 2-3hr job for about $1k, every two years.