LIFT PUMP... low volts ?
#16
Registered User
Mike, hate to throw this in there since you just found out your problem but 9 psi is just to low to be comfortable with. Its up to you and I'm sure you're just happy to have solved your issue to worry about fuel pressure.
#17
Registered User
Thread Starter
Katoom,
9 PSI was at load @2600 RPM the rest of the time it hovered around 12-14 PSi. Are you saying it shouldn't drop at all? let me know your thoughts,
Mike
9 PSI was at load @2600 RPM the rest of the time it hovered around 12-14 PSi. Are you saying it shouldn't drop at all? let me know your thoughts,
Mike
#18
Registered User
See, thats what I meant by can of worms.
#19
Registered User
Thread Starter
I see... I had asked the FASS rep if I added the extra heavier spring to increase pressure; he stated that's too much pressure is also bad... He said to pull the original spring out and stretch it a 1/4 inch than put it back in.
How much PSI is too much.
thanks,
Mike
How much PSI is too much.
thanks,
Mike
#20
Registered User
They way I look at it is as long as your fuel pressure is higher than the overflow valves 14-16 psi, then your fuel is cooling the VP, but anything over say around 20 psi is a waste of time. Because.....there's only so much fuel volume the return lines can flow and there's no point in overly recirculating the fuel in the tank.
#21
Registered User
Thread Starter
That sounds reasonable to me, I think I will put the heavier spring in and see what pressure I get out of the fass lift-pump.
It makes sense that if you were at idle traveling down a long grade and the fuel pressure is not high enough to open the by-pass, fuel would not circulate and cool the VP.
Thanks for the info Katoom,
Mike
It makes sense that if you were at idle traveling down a long grade and the fuel pressure is not high enough to open the by-pass, fuel would not circulate and cool the VP.
Thanks for the info Katoom,
Mike
#22
Registered User
Having same problem...where to get female end replacement?
We are having the same kind of problems with our pump, with the exception that the truck doesn't die.
History is in another post, but to summarize, this Carter pump started dropping pressure periodically, then coming back up. I replaced it with a DDRP, which one day seemed to suddenly die after one month of use! Pressure went to zero! So, swapped the old fluctuating pump back in, and it was jumping around from 15 to 5 to 10 to 2, and last week stayed at 2. I'm hearing a sound now up in the engine compartment, worried it's the inj. pump suffering. Truck is parked. Called KLM Performance about getting the DDRP situation resolved, getting a replacement, but after reading the above post, I'm thinking it's electrical, not the pumps!
I had noticed that the connector wires looked loose when I was installing the pumps. My hubby and I did a crude test. I thought the Carter was dead because when I bumped the ignition I got no action from the pump. I put a voltage tester (lamp) at the connector and when my husband bumped the ignition, the lamp lit up and the pump ran for a few seconds. I then plugged in the DDRP and had him bump it again, and got the same, even though when I tested the DDRP this way before I got nothing. So, I suspect it is the connection.
So, where does one find the right female end quickly?!! We need the truck this weekend!
History is in another post, but to summarize, this Carter pump started dropping pressure periodically, then coming back up. I replaced it with a DDRP, which one day seemed to suddenly die after one month of use! Pressure went to zero! So, swapped the old fluctuating pump back in, and it was jumping around from 15 to 5 to 10 to 2, and last week stayed at 2. I'm hearing a sound now up in the engine compartment, worried it's the inj. pump suffering. Truck is parked. Called KLM Performance about getting the DDRP situation resolved, getting a replacement, but after reading the above post, I'm thinking it's electrical, not the pumps!
I had noticed that the connector wires looked loose when I was installing the pumps. My hubby and I did a crude test. I thought the Carter was dead because when I bumped the ignition I got no action from the pump. I put a voltage tester (lamp) at the connector and when my husband bumped the ignition, the lamp lit up and the pump ran for a few seconds. I then plugged in the DDRP and had him bump it again, and got the same, even though when I tested the DDRP this way before I got nothing. So, I suspect it is the connection.
So, where does one find the right female end quickly?!! We need the truck this weekend!
#23
Registered User
We are having the same kind of problems with our pump, with the exception that the truck doesn't die.
History is in another post, but to summarize, this Carter pump started dropping pressure periodically, then coming back up. I replaced it with a DDRP, which one day seemed to suddenly die after one month of use! Pressure went to zero! So, swapped the old fluctuating pump back in, and it was jumping around from 15 to 5 to 10 to 2, and last week stayed at 2. I'm hearing a sound now up in the engine compartment, worried it's the inj. pump suffering. Truck is parked. Called KLM Performance about getting the DDRP situation resolved, getting a replacement, but after reading the above post, I'm thinking it's electrical, not the pumps!
I had noticed that the connector wires looked loose when I was installing the pumps. My hubby and I did a crude test. I thought the Carter was dead because when I bumped the ignition I got no action from the pump. I put a voltage tester (lamp) at the connector and when my husband bumped the ignition, the lamp lit up and the pump ran for a few seconds. I then plugged in the DDRP and had him bump it again, and got the same, even though when I tested the DDRP this way before I got nothing. So, I suspect it is the connection.
So, where does one find the right female end quickly?!! We need the truck this weekend!
History is in another post, but to summarize, this Carter pump started dropping pressure periodically, then coming back up. I replaced it with a DDRP, which one day seemed to suddenly die after one month of use! Pressure went to zero! So, swapped the old fluctuating pump back in, and it was jumping around from 15 to 5 to 10 to 2, and last week stayed at 2. I'm hearing a sound now up in the engine compartment, worried it's the inj. pump suffering. Truck is parked. Called KLM Performance about getting the DDRP situation resolved, getting a replacement, but after reading the above post, I'm thinking it's electrical, not the pumps!
I had noticed that the connector wires looked loose when I was installing the pumps. My hubby and I did a crude test. I thought the Carter was dead because when I bumped the ignition I got no action from the pump. I put a voltage tester (lamp) at the connector and when my husband bumped the ignition, the lamp lit up and the pump ran for a few seconds. I then plugged in the DDRP and had him bump it again, and got the same, even though when I tested the DDRP this way before I got nothing. So, I suspect it is the connection.
So, where does one find the right female end quickly?!! We need the truck this weekend!
#24
Registered User
Thanks to Bent Valves, the connector can be found here:
Here is a link to Jegs:
http://www.jegs.com/i/MSD/121/8183/10002/-1
Here is a link to Summit
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MSD-8183/
These are both male and female sides. You will need to cut off the old connector and crimp on the new terminals.
This is a "Deutsch connector" and apparently MSD is the only one who makes them it would seem!
Yesterday I drove 30 mile RT to get the wiring from Dodge, which included the relay and the whole wiring from connector to relay to ground, etc. $55. All I wanted was the socket/female end, so I started another thread and Bent Valves offered up those links. Ah hah, I'll see if I can find it locally, I think to myself. Go to MSD's website and look for local dealers. Everyone I called didn't have it but could get it by Monday from the distributor. Well, there was just one place that actually had it, but that meant a drive across the San Mateo Bridge during rush hour, with a bridge toll on the way back. Pretty cool little connector: you just wire up a new harness rather than splicing wires.
HOWEVER, when I went to do this job, just when I was about to snip off the offending connector, I detected a bit of sheen coming through the insulation of the ground wire! There was a breach where the bracket that holds the cable on at the pump mount had rubbed through! All this hell I've been through when all it required was a bit of electrical tape!!!!
So, for anyone who is experiencing pressure drops from their pump, check the wiring for rubs where the cable is held by the bracket.
Meanwhile, my I suspect my inj. pump was suffering from the low pressure and my check engine light would come on briefly with the chime ringing twice, then off, then on, etc. When I got my pump going again and idled the engine, the chime/CEL kept doing that but thankfully stopped after awhile. Was this the chime of doom for my inj. pump?! Is it possible to just come up short of killing it only to have it be okay once the cooling/lubrication are back to normal? Yikes!
Here is a link to Jegs:
http://www.jegs.com/i/MSD/121/8183/10002/-1
Here is a link to Summit
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MSD-8183/
These are both male and female sides. You will need to cut off the old connector and crimp on the new terminals.
This is a "Deutsch connector" and apparently MSD is the only one who makes them it would seem!
Yesterday I drove 30 mile RT to get the wiring from Dodge, which included the relay and the whole wiring from connector to relay to ground, etc. $55. All I wanted was the socket/female end, so I started another thread and Bent Valves offered up those links. Ah hah, I'll see if I can find it locally, I think to myself. Go to MSD's website and look for local dealers. Everyone I called didn't have it but could get it by Monday from the distributor. Well, there was just one place that actually had it, but that meant a drive across the San Mateo Bridge during rush hour, with a bridge toll on the way back. Pretty cool little connector: you just wire up a new harness rather than splicing wires.
HOWEVER, when I went to do this job, just when I was about to snip off the offending connector, I detected a bit of sheen coming through the insulation of the ground wire! There was a breach where the bracket that holds the cable on at the pump mount had rubbed through! All this hell I've been through when all it required was a bit of electrical tape!!!!
So, for anyone who is experiencing pressure drops from their pump, check the wiring for rubs where the cable is held by the bracket.
Meanwhile, my I suspect my inj. pump was suffering from the low pressure and my check engine light would come on briefly with the chime ringing twice, then off, then on, etc. When I got my pump going again and idled the engine, the chime/CEL kept doing that but thankfully stopped after awhile. Was this the chime of doom for my inj. pump?! Is it possible to just come up short of killing it only to have it be okay once the cooling/lubrication are back to normal? Yikes!
#25
Registered User
Meanwhile, my I suspect my inj. pump was suffering from the low pressure and my check engine light would come on briefly with the chime ringing twice, then off, then on, etc. When I got my pump going again and idled the engine, the chime/CEL kept doing that but thankfully stopped after awhile. Was this the chime of doom for my inj. pump?! Is it possible to just come up short of killing it only to have it be okay once the cooling/lubrication are back to normal? Yikes!
#26
You might have wiring problem. Power for pump comes directly from ECM. Check voltage at ECM and grounds.
OPERATION
Normal current flow to the pump is 12 amperes.
With the engine running, the pump has 2 modes of operation: Mode 1: 100 percent duty-cycle with a minimum pressure of 10 psi except when the engine is cranking. Mode 2: 25 percent duty-cycle with minimum pressure of 7 psi with the engine cranking
The 25 percent duty-cycle is used to limit injection pump inlet pressure until the engine is running.
The transfer pump is self-priming: When the key is first turned on (without cranking engine), the pump will operate for approximately 2 seconds and then shut off. The pump will also operate for up to 25 seconds after the starter is engaged, and then disengaged and the engine is not running. The pump shuts off immediately if the key is on and the engine stops running.
OPERATION
Normal current flow to the pump is 12 amperes.
With the engine running, the pump has 2 modes of operation: Mode 1: 100 percent duty-cycle with a minimum pressure of 10 psi except when the engine is cranking. Mode 2: 25 percent duty-cycle with minimum pressure of 7 psi with the engine cranking
The 25 percent duty-cycle is used to limit injection pump inlet pressure until the engine is running.
The transfer pump is self-priming: When the key is first turned on (without cranking engine), the pump will operate for approximately 2 seconds and then shut off. The pump will also operate for up to 25 seconds after the starter is engaged, and then disengaged and the engine is not running. The pump shuts off immediately if the key is on and the engine stops running.
#27
Registered User
I too have been trying to figure out why my lift pump will start and run at 15 psi and than sometime drop to 7 psi. When the pressure drops, if I press hard on the gas pedal, the pressure will jump back up to 15 psi. The drop to 7 psi is intermittent. Sometimes the pressure will stay at 15 psi with normal cruise on the highway at about 12-13 psi and sometimes it drops to 7 psi until I step on it. In the above statement, what triggers the different modes of the lift pump. Is it something in the pump or the ECM. Does this sound like a wiring problem or is this lift pump going out.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Racing_Joe66
HELP!
6
06-05-2007 02:32 PM