Geico266

Well, it kinda stalls going from park to idle. It did die a couple of times until I adjusted the APPS to the idle value of .558 (per sticker on APPS). It was .508 and that seems to have made some difference. When you shift (automatic) the engine takes 1/4 second to realize it needs to idle up to meet the demand of the TC drag.

I've double checked vacuum lines and they seem okay. Anything else I should be doing or look for?

Any and all advice appreciated.

RAM2940

After reading your other recent post, curious where you bought your vp-44 pump from.

Geico266

I went with one of the DTR sponsors, The Diesel Store. That way if it is no good I can get DTR to pay for it!

Geico266

Bump!!!


Anyone have a clue? I bumped this for the weekend guys.

I've double checked the APPS.

It's almost as if the TC is causing the problem? How do I check the line pressure?

Shovelhead

Have you tried resetting the APPS again after adjusting the voltage?

Pull the battery cables, wait an hour, reattach the cables, turn the key on, then push the accelerator pedal slowly all the way to the floor, then let it up slowly?

Geico266

AHH! I forgot that part! I'll try that!

I think that was it! I tried putting it in gear a couple of times and it is acting better!

Thanks ED! You da man!

Shovelhead

Great,....I hope it STAYS fixed.

Geico266

You and me both! I'm sure I can expect my new VP44 to last another 265K miles.

If this baby doesn't last I'll give Chip a call.

Geico266

Well, resetting and calibrating the APPS didn't do it. It still stalls first thing in the morning when I put it into gear, but after it seems to act okay.

On a "99" 24 Value, do you need to cycle the throttle 3 times when recalibrtating the APPS or just once??

Any other ideas?

Shovelhead

Once.

BigIron70

See list of possible causes shown in specific order below. DRIVEABILITY: Check for possible driveability issue that may cause or contribute to engine stall out. Condition may be caused by crankshaft position sensor (CPS) signal drop out. COOLER FLOW: Check trans cooler system flow rate. Trans should be fully warmed up. COOLER FLOW TEST RESULTS: WITH Aux Cooler: Pressure indicated on the gauge should stabilize below (20) psi. WITHOUT Aux Cooler: Pressure indicated on the gauge should stabilize below (30) psi. Higher pressure indicates cooler system is restricted. Repair as required. May require radiator and/or auxiliary cooler replacement. CIRCUIT WIRING: Check TCC (torque converter clutch) solenoid circuit wiring and connectors. Check for shorts to power or ground or chafing (rub-through). Check circuit wiring inside trans pan area. Repair as required. Check for electrical add-on equipment that may be involved. Remove add-on equipment if required If no circuit wiring problems are found replace the TCC solenoid. VALVEBODY: Remove and inspect valvebody assembly for stuck valves / cracks / damage / uneven mating surfaces / loose retaining screws / other. Check all mating surfaces with a precision straight edge tool. Clean and recondition valvebody assembly as required. Torque all screws to proper specification. Replace valvebody assembly if necessary. PUMP ASSEMBLY: Replace trans pump assembly / input shaft / seal rings / torque converter.

Geico266

Well, I figured out the new injector pump I installed was bad out of the box.

Shovelhead

DAAAAAAAANG!

If it weren't fer BAD Luck, you'd have no luck a'tall........

Geico266

Well, at least it was not my install!

Geico266

Well, I think I figured it out. Someone here posted that the stalling was caused by air entering the system, and I think they were right! I tighened all of the stuff I worked under the hood, but I didn't check the entire system. The suction line clamp was loose on the tank. This may have been letting just a little air into the system. The truck has been running and shifting fine. We'll see.