24 Valve Engine and Drivetrain Discuss the 24 Valve engine and drivetrain here. No non-drivetrain discussions please. NO HIGH PERFORMANCE DISCUSSION!

Just discovered something.....

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Old 07-18-2010 | 08:54 PM
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shaft's Avatar
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Just discovered something.....

I just got my new 3-piece exhaust manifold from PDI and I placed a straight edge against the exhaust ports and it's not flush against the straight edge --- it's bowed. The middle part is probably 1/8 of an inch off. I'm assuming this isn't normal. I would think it would be completely flat. Should I not even bother to install this manifold and get a replacement ? Or this there a chance it will flush against the block once it's torqued down. Pls advice. Thx.
Old 07-18-2010 | 08:59 PM
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I'd like to hear other comments but 1/8 is a lot. Old skool is for manifold to be flat. I'd discuss with PDI. I hate doing things twice.
Old 07-18-2010 | 09:24 PM
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I'm going to guess that since the manifold is multiple pieces they'll tell you to bolt her up, but I'd call them all the same.
Old 07-18-2010 | 09:49 PM
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Thx for the replies so far. I will call PDI tomorrow.

My truck has been out of commision since saturday afternoon. I removed the split (in 3 pieces) stock manifold and then found out the turbo gasket was split in half. Now I have to wait til Monday to run over to the local Cummins dealer and buy a gasket. I can't afford to have my truck down for another few days if I have to wait for another manifold. This really $uck$.
Old 07-18-2010 | 10:50 PM
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Its a three piece manifold, with ball and socket joints that allow for movement. It can bend and move axially. Bolt the thing up and move on to the next job.
Old 07-19-2010 | 09:45 AM
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Originally Posted by Tate
Its a three piece manifold, with ball and socket joints that allow for movement. It can bend and move axially. Bolt the thing up and move on to the next job.
Just spoke to PDI and I was told that these 3-piece manifold will get deformed during shipping espcially if it gets dropped on its end. Even the bolt holes will not line up due to the movement. Hopefully tapping it with a hammer will expand the manifold so the holes will line up.

Now I have another question. Do I bolt the manifold first to the engine then attach the turbo? Or attach the turbo first to the manifold, then bolt the manifold to the engine. Or does it really matter? I just want this job to go smoothly since these bolts are very difficult to deal with -- I did not remove the turbo so its really on the way of everything.

Thanks for all the help.
Old 07-19-2010 | 11:30 AM
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Bolt it on the engine first and tighten the bolts in the center first and then work your way to the outside ends normally you jump from side to side as you work out on a one piece. Might not matter on a 3 piece, first snug them up then to 30-32 ft pds i always use anti seize on the bolts and same on the studs for the turbo mount.

I just did one on an 8.3 rear pusher in a 96 motor home it shrank so much it broke off the first 3 bolts in the head flush of course.
Old 07-19-2010 | 03:21 PM
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Bolt the center section up, then get a pry bar to align the holes, and bolt each side up. Doesn't matter if the turbo is bolted on or not, other than you have an extra 35 lbs to deal with. If the turbo is still connected to the oil, exhaust and cold air discharge, you have even more movement restriction.
Old 07-20-2010 | 08:47 AM
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Originally Posted by Tate
Bolt the center section up, then get a pry bar to align the holes, and bolt each side up. Doesn't matter if the turbo is bolted on or not, other than you have an extra 35 lbs to deal with. If the turbo is still connected to the oil, exhaust and cold air discharge, you have even more movement restriction.
Thanks for the help. Manifold is bolted to the engine. However I have issues mating the turbo to the manifold.

Pls see thread below:
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...s-t273862.html



thx
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